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In our GWE growing community, a grower recently asked...

"I'm confused about all the different types of grow lights. What's the difference between an LEC grow light and an Induction grow light? What about Plasma or CMH grow lights? They all look sort of similar to each other... and how are they different from LEDs?"

The post LEC vs Induction vs Plasma Grow Lights: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

In our GWE growing community, a grower recently asked…

“I’m confused about all the different types of grow lights. What’s the difference between an LEC grow light and an Induction grow light? What about Plasma or CMH grow lights? They all look sort of similar to each other… and how are they different from LEDs?”

It’s crazy how fast things change! Back in the early 2000s, there were basically three types of grow lights available that worked for growing cannabis indoors. There were Fluorescent lights, Metal Halide lights and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lights.

Then a few years later LED grow lights started gaining a lot of traction in the cannabis grow light market.

And now it seems like new types of grow lights are popping up on the market every day! You may have come across names like CMH, LEC, Induction and Plasma grow lights, and possibly more. It can get confusing with all the new terms being thrown around! So today I will explain exactly what each term means, and to expect from each type of grow light when it comes to growing marijuana.

Cannabis needs lots of light to produce good yields, but which type of grow light works best?

Today we’ll cover them all! Let’s start with the newer types of grow lights, and then I’ll compare and contrast with some of the more traditional grow light types!
New(er) Types of Cannabis Grow Lights

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

This is an improved version of a Metal Halide grow light. The main difference is it uses a ceramic arc tube like an HPS grow light, which makes it more electrically efficient. This is why some CMH bulbs look like HPS bulbs until you get close!

Ceramic Metal Halide lights get good results in the cannabis flowering stage, much better than a standard Metal Halide does.

And unlike HPS lights (which look very yellow), CMH lights produce a natural-looking spectrum of light that resembles light from the sun on a clear day!

This makes it easier to spot problems on your plants, and it’s also just nice to be able to see and take pictures of your plants in full color!

In addition, Ceramic Metal Halides produce UV-B light like the sun, which may possibly increase THC and trichome production! However, Ceramic Metal Halide bulbs need a direct path to the plants for the best results. Reflectors and hoods without glass are preferred (more on that in a second) because glass blocks UV-B light from getting to your plants.

Learn more about Ceramic Metal Halide (aka LEC) grow lights

Light Emitting Ceramic (LEC)

Despite the somewhat confusing name, this type of grow light has nothing to do with LEDs!

“LEC” is a brand name (trademark) for a specific model of Ceramic Metal Halide grow light by the company Sun System. LEC stands for “Light Emitting Ceramic” and is a marketing term, not a new type of technology.

That’s why the term “LEC” is often used interchangeably with “CMH” in online grow light listings.

However, the form factor of the 315 LEC model by Sun System (which uses 315W) seems to be particularly effective at growing cannabis. Part of this may be because it was designed to stay cool even without glass, so plants are able to get full access to all the UV-B rays!

In initial testing, the 315 LEC grow light yields about 4-9 ounces per harvest on average, but some growers have written in and reportedly yielded much more! Please contact us if you want to share your results with LEC grow lights and possibly get featured on the website!

Learn More About LEC Grow Lights!

Increased trichome production under LEC Grow Lights

Magnetic Induction Grow Light

A Magnetic Induction grow light is basically an improved fluorescent grow light. Instead of using a filament, it uses induction to power the light. This causes the bulbs to last significantly longer than a regular fluorescent light because the filament doesn’t burn out over time.

They come in bigger sizes than regular fluorescents, but otherwise get similar yields considering the amount of electricity used. They definitely can’t compete with the more powerful lights!

Although Magnetic Induction grow lights actually work pretty well for growing cannabis, I don’t really recommend them because I believe they cost too much (and use too much electricity) for the yields you get. You will get better bang for your buck with many of the other types of grow lights!

Learn more about Magnetic Induction grow lights

Plasma Induction Grow Light

Plasma grow lights also use induction technology, so you know the bulbs will last a long time. However, most Plasma lights on the market today are are obscenely expensive!

Instead of mimicking fluorescents, this type of induction light uses microwave radiation and excited sulfur plasma to generate light. This produces a greenish white light that looks beautiful to people, but unfortunately doesn’t work that great for growing cannabis.

Even worse, Plasma grow lights cause RFI interference which can alert someone to your grow! For security reasons alone, I highly recommend avoiding Plasma Induction grow lights Basically any other type of grow light is better!

Learn more about Plasma Induction grow lights

So how do these compare to more “traditional” grow lights? Let’s do a quick breakdown…

 

More “Traditional” Grow Lights

Fluorescent Grow Lights (CFLs & T5s)

This group includes CFLs and T5s and is one of the most common types of grow light for hobbyist growers of all types of plants. CFLs can be found anywhere, including gas stations, and T5s can be found at most stores with a garden section (like Home Depot or Walmart).

Outside the cannabis world, fluorescents are often used for starting seedlings, as well as for growing various flowers, herbs and vegetables. They are a little underpowered for growing marijuana, but offer a great spectrum and can actually get some pretty decent results when combined with diligent plant training.

Learn more about growing cannabis with CFLs

Learn more about T5 grow lights

Metal Halide

A Metal Halide (MH) is a very powerful grow light that gives off a bluish white light. It is often used for the cannabis vegetative stage and produces fast, healthy green vegetative growth.

The Metal Halide is Part 1 of the “golden standard” of grow lights, and is the most common grow light used by commercial growers in the vegetative stage.

Learn more about Metal Halide grow lights

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)

A High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamp is a very powerful grow light that gives off a harsh yellow light. It is often used during the cannabis flowering stage because its particular light spectrum stimulates bud production. HPS is also one of the most efficient types of grow lights available on the market, and produces amazing bud growth!

Because of these factors, HPS lights get some of the best cannabis yields of any grow light. That’s why HPS is Part 2 of the “golden standard” of grow lights!

Learn more about High Pressure Sodium grow lights

A combination of Metal Halide and HPS grow lights has been used by commercial growers for decades, and even though new types of light are on the market, MH/HPS are still by far the most common type of grow light for those looking to yield large amounts of bud. But that may change over the next few years as grow light technology improves!
​

LED Grow Light

You’ve probably seen these before! An LED lamp is basically a panel containing a bunch of tiny LED diodes. Although there are some full spectrum LED grow lights these days, the light from most LED models usually looks purple.

Although the LEDs from 10 years ago weren’t that great for growing marijuana, modern LED grow lights generally get yields almost as good as HPS grow lights!

Learn more about using LED grow lights for growing cannabis

Quick Summary of Today’s Article

• Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) – Improved version of a Metal Halide grow light that uses a ceramic arc tube, which makes it more efficient. CMH grow lights can be used in both the vegetative and flowering stage.
• LEC Grow Light – LEC stands for “Light Emitting Ceramic” and refers to a Ceramic Metal Halide grow light produced by the company Sun System. In other words, “LEC” is a marketing name for a CMH light in a specific fixture, not a new type of grow light technology.
• Magnetic Induction – Basically a big, glorified fluorescent light. Although they last a long time and work well for growing cannabis, they aren’t much more efficient than regular fluorescent grow lights.
• Plasma Induction – An induction light that produces a greenish light that looks nice but doesn’t get great results with growing cannabis. Even worse, they create RFI interference which is not good for security! Avoid Plasma Induction lights! Basically any other type of grow light is better for growing cannabis indoors.

Compare to More Traditional Grow Lights

• Fluorescents (CFls & T5s) – Cheap to get started, very effective growing spectrum, but a little underpowered
• Metal Halide (MH) – Powerful light most commonly used for the vegetative stage
• High Pressure Sodium (HPS) – Powerful light most commonly used for the flowering stage. HPS lights are considered to have some of the best yields of any grow light. Together, MH and HPS are currently the most popular grow lights used by commercial growers.
• LED Grow Light – These light panels house several small LED diodes and usually produce purple light (though some newer LEDs produce white light). The technology for LEDs has been improving quite a bit over the last decade, and they now get yields that are nearly as high as HPS grow lights.

I hope that helps clear up some of the confusion about all the different types of cannabis grow lights! But if you’re interested in learning more, read an even more detailed breakdown of cannabis grow lights!

 

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Jump to…

More About Cannabis Grow Lights!

How Long Does it Take to Grow Cannabis?

10-Step Guide to Getting Started Growing Cannabis

How to fix 99% of cannabis plant problems

 

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The post LEC vs Induction vs Plasma Grow Lights: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/do-i-need-side-lighting?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=do-i-need-side-lighting Fri, 12 Aug 2016 19:39:15 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/newsletter_issue/do-my-cannabis-plants-need-side-lighting/ by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

Is Side Lighting Worth It?

Side Lighting vs Supplemental Lighting

When Is Side Lighting a Good Idea?

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The post Do My Cannabis Plants Need Side Lighting? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

Is Side Lighting Worth It?

Side Lighting vs Supplemental Lighting

When Is Side Lighting a Good Idea?

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Is Side or Supplemental Lighting Worth It For Cannabis Growers?

When growing a cannabis plant indoors, light usually comes from a grow light located at the top of the grow space. This means all the light is beaming down on the plant from above.

Most grow lights point light straight down at the plants

You may have noticed that by harvest time, buds close to the grow light are often the biggest. Should you give more light from the sides to increase the size of lower buds?

Does it make sense to add side lighting indoors? Can you copy the sun and give light from the sides to increase yields?

 

Is Side Lighting Worth It for Cannabis Plants?

So is side lighting worth it for indoor cannabis growers? The answer is unsatisfactory…

Maybe…

Side lighting can be helpful in certain situations, but it’s often unnecessary and may reduce yields/watt compared to adding light from above. Why is that?

It has to do with how cannabis plants respond to their environment. Although buds tend to grow bigger with more light, cannabis plants still favor the upper buds. A cannabis plant can “tell” which buds are at the top of the plant and puts more energy into these “high value” buds even when everything else is equal.

Even when cannabis gets the same amount of light from top to bottom, like with these old-fashioned Phototrons, the top buds are still bigger. That’s just how cannabis plants roll 🙂

Pic by magiccannabus

Cannabis plants naturally put the most energy into upper buds even when the plant is getting tons of light from the sides. Growers have competing theories about exactly why. Perhaps the top buds are most likely to get pollinated by the wind in nature.

To take advantage of this natural tendency, indoor growers often train plants to produce many top buds near the light (as opposed to adding side lighting). This ends up getting you more “bang for your buck” because you’ll get better yields/watt with free plant training than you would with side lighting.

Because upper buds grow the biggest, growers often train their plants to grow bud sites on a flat, table-top shaped canopy. This puts more bud sites at the top of the plant close to the grow light.

Growing “wide” cannabis plants with light on top results in better yields/watt than growing “tall” plants with the same amount of light on the sides

Side Lighting vs Supplemental Lighting

• Side Lighting means specifically targeting the sides of the plant with light to try to increase bud size on the sides.
• Supplemental Lighting means you’re trying to increase overall light levels or change the light spectrum. Supplemental lighting isn’t about giving light from the sides; in fact, generally supplemental lighting is given from above the plant because that gives you more bang for your buck.

Supplemental lighting is common in greenhouses. If you have a spot in your yard that only gets good direct light for a few hours a day, or if you have a lot of cloudy weather at your location, you could supplement with extra light from a grow light while still taking advantage of the free light you’re getting from the sun.

Example of a Greenhouse Supplemented by LED Grow Lights to Increase Yields (A Light Mover Moves Grow Lights Back and Forth)

pic by Heliospectra AB

Another common reason growers use supplemental lighting is to alter the light spectrum, or “color” of the light. Each light spectrum affects how your plant grows and some growers are using the power of LED grow lights (which allow you to choose the exact spectrum) to supplement either outdoor light or the light of other grow lights like HPS. These days it’s pretty common to see growers use LED grow lights to achieve a specific spectrum; it’s also common to see growers combine their LED panel with an HPS grow light to help get better yields and increased flower production.

This grower added red-heavy LED grow lights to help encourage flowering

Supplemental lighting can be a great choice in a lot of situations, but it’s not exactly the same as side lighting, which tends to be less useful most of the time.

 

When Is Side Lighting a Good idea?

Side lighting can be a good idea with fluorescent grow lights like CFLs and possibly T5 grow lights with untrained plants. This is because these types of light don’t reach far down into the plant. In fact, the light from fluorescents is so weak that it’s only good for a few inches. By the time a plant is more than a foot away the light is pretty much useless as far as bud fattening is concerned. Because of these constraints, side lighting can help make sure all buds are within a few inches of a light bulb.

Sometimes side lighting can help with fluorescent lights like CFLs, especially on an untrained plant where most of the buds are far from the top of the plant

However, if you train your cannabis plant to grow short and flat you can increase your yields with the same amount of light because you’ll be able to make sure every main bud is located towards the top of the plant while also getting full light levels.

In other words, even with weak grow lights, you’ll get far better yields by growing plants that are wide and flat as opposed to utilizing side lighting.

These buds got really fat even though they were grown under a small T5 grow light because every bud was near the top and close to the light, due to being trained to grow flat along a screen.

When you get to really strong types of grow lights like HPS and LEDs, their light reaches deep down into the plant. This gives you long, thick buds and without any type of side lighting.

To sum it up, it’s good to get plenty of light to your buds near no matter where they’re located on the plant, as buds that are exposed to light and air tend to grow the biggest. But ultimately you’ll get better yields/watt simply by making sure all main buds are located near the top of the plant and shining light directly down on them from above.

Learn how to train plants to grow flat and wide
(and get the best yields possible with your grow lights!)

 

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Ready to learn more? Learn how to increase….

• Yields
• Bud Quality
• THC Levels
• CBD Levels
• Smell/Taste
• Density
• Bonus: What Determines Yields?

 

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The post Do My Cannabis Plants Need Side Lighting? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/whats-the-best-reflector-for-growing-cannabis?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=whats-the-best-reflector-for-growing-cannabis Fri, 10 Jun 2016 21:22:12 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/faq/which-reflector-is-best-for-my-mhhps-grow-light/ by Nebula Haze

When growing cannabis under HID grow lights like MH or HPS, you want to take as much light from the bulb as possible and deliver it directly to your plants. This is important because maintaining strong light levels in the flowering stage is the only way to grow dense buds and get brag-worthy yields. Higher light levels (up to a point) are also associated with increased potency.

The post Which Reflector is Best for My MH/HPS Grow Light? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

When growing cannabis under HID grow lights like MH or HPS, you want to take as much light from the bulb as possible and deliver it directly to your plants. This is important because maintaining strong light levels in the flowering stage is the only way to grow dense buds and get brag-worthy yields. Higher light levels (up to a point) are also associated with increased potency.

By using a reflector (especially when combined with reflective walls), you can get a significant amount of extra light to your plants without using any more electricity, resulting in faster growth and bigger harvests.

The hood / reflector focuses light down, increasing light levels experienced by the plants

But which reflector is best for your grow light and space? Is it worth it for you to get a better or more expensive reflector than what you have now, or will your results end up being about the same?

Let’s break it down!

Always Get an Air-Cooled Hood

There are three main types of hoods/reflectors: wing reflectors, cooltubes, and air-cooled hoods. Each of these types will reflect light down onto your plants, but they differ in how well they reflect the light, and how well they contain the heat of the bulb.

In order to get the highest levels of light to your plants you need to be able to keep your grow lights close, but that can be impossible when the heat from a naked bulb is beaming directly down onto your grow space like with a wing reflector.

Wing Reflector (sometimes called a “bat wing”) – Cheapest type of reflector, be careful of sharp edges! Wing reflectors are usually pretty good at reflecting light, but they can make it difficult to prevent heat from beaming down on your plants. Even if you have a fan blowing directly over the bulb you may not be able to keep bulb close enough for maximum light efficiency. Not recommended.

An air-cooled hood is a must to contain the heat from your MH/HPS bulb so you can safely bring your light close to your plants. The heat gets contained behind glass, and the hood itself can be easily hooked up to a fan to vent extra hot air outside the grow space.

If you take a bulb from a wing reflector and put that same bulb in an enclosed air-cooled hood, the overall temperature in the grow space will likely stay about the same (since the bulb is still giving off about the same amount of heat), but the temperature felt by your plants in the top canopy will be dramatically less since the heat is being enclosed near the bulb instead of beaming down. That means you often will be able to keep a bulb much closer if it’s in an air-cooled hood compared to a wing reflector, increasing light levels without causing extra heat stress to your plants.

Air-Cooled Hood – considered the “golden standard” of reflectors, they contain heat away from your plants by trapping it behind a piece of glass located at the bottom of the hood. They have holes in the side so they can easily be hooked up to an exhaust fan via ducting. Air-cooled hoods are the most effective type of reflector when it comes to reflecting light downwards while also keeping plants cool. They are even good at containing heat when not hooked up to an exhaust (though venting out the extra heat will certainly give you the best results). Highly recommended!

Cool Tube – A Cooltube is a variation of an air-cooled reflector that takes up less room so it can still contain heat but will fit in smaller spaces. Although these are great for cooling, they usually have a smaller (less effective) reflector than either a batwing or a full-sized hood. Only recommended if you can’t fit a full sized air-cooled hood in your grow space!

Summary: Why get an air-cooled hood?

• Most effective type of hood for reflecting light down to your plants
• Prevent heat stress by containing heat near the bulb (also giving you overall greater environmental control)
• You are able to keep lights closer to plants for increased light levels using the same bulb/electricity
• Can be easily hooked up to an exhaust system or a carbon filter via ducting
• Ideal for grow tents as they have been specifically designed to work together to help growers create the perfect indoor growing environment

Get the Most Effective Hood for Your Light & Space – Narrow vs Wide Dispersion of Light

When growing cannabis in a tent or other restricted space, you want to get a hood that’s been specifically designed to get the most amount of light to your plants in a space like yours with the bulb you have.

Hoods either reflect light straight down or they disperse light in a wider area, and each type of hood can be a good option depending on your goals.

Hoods and reflectors that are more narrow/tall with straight edges tend to beam light down more directly, which means plants will experience a higher intensity of light (and increased penetration below the canopy), but in a smaller area. This can be helpful if you’re growing with big grow lights that must be kept further away from your plants, or if you’re growing in a tall space and want deep penetration.

Tall, narrow hoods with straight edges tend to beam light directly down, providing deeper penetration but also reducing the light footprint

On the flip side, hoods that are wide and short with angled sides tend to disperse light over a wider area. It’s helpful to get a hood that disperses light if you want to maximize the area that receives light (create a bigger light footprint, though light is less focused). A hood that disperses light over a bigger area can also be kept closer to your plants as long as heat is under control, thus increasing light levels without reducing the light footprint up to a point. This can help create strong, even light levels over your entire grow space even with a smaller sized light like a 250W or 400W HPS.

Hoods that are relatively short and wide with angled sides disperse light over a wide area

Get a tall, narrow hood with straight edges if…

• You want to get deeper penetration below the canopy
• You want a high level of light in a focused area
• You plan on keeping lights relatively high above the plants

Get a short, wide hood with angled edges if…

• You want more even spread of light coverage
• You want to cover a larger area with your grow light
• You want to be able to bring your light closer without sacrificing footprint (great for increasing light levels with some of the smaller HPS sizes without increasing electricity usage)

Although there are specific cases where a more narrow hood might be more effective, I personally believe most hobbyist growers would be better off with a wider hood, as it lets you give plants higher light levels by moving lights closer, without reducing the amount of space you can use to grow plants. However, wider hoods often cost more than narrow hoods so if price is an issue, that may be a consideration.

A few last tips…

Get Most Reflective Hood as Possible (95% Reflectivity)

Hoods commonly come labeled as having 85% or 95% reflectivity (though some may not say anything about reflectivity, which usually means it’s 85%). Although it’s often more expensive to purchase a hood with higher reflectivity, it’s not a bad idea if you can afford it! Although there’s not a huge difference in performance between the two types, the 95% reflective hoods definitely do reflect more light. Every bit of extra light received by your plants can make a difference!

A Good Hood Can Be Opened Up

This may be something you don’t think about the first time you’re getting a hood/reflector, but they each have different ways to get inside so you can screw in your bulb.

If possible, get a hood that’s been labeled as having either “hinges” or “sliding glass” (preferably hinged) in order to get to the light socket. Otherwise you might be sticking your hands in from the side air hole whenever you want to change the bulb. Not being able to get past the glass can also make it difficult to clean the inside of your hood if it gets dirty (and the glass should be as clean as possible to make sure it’s not blocking any light from getting through). However, although this is a matter of convenience for you, it doesn’t really have much effect on your plants.

 

Do I want a 6-inch or 8-inch opening on the sides?

Every air-cooled hood has an opening that can be used to connect the hood to a fan or ducting. These openings come in different sizes, so which do you choose? 6-inch is the most common size, and has the most options, but you may have reasons to want a bigger size.

6-inch – Effective for cooling up to three lights that are hooked together <— Most common sieze, if you’re not sure, get this!

8-inch – Necessary to get enough airflow when more than three lights are being hooked together, though you have fewer options

Make sure your hood has the right sized openings for the ducting you plan to use (if in doubt, get one with 6-inch openings)

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Suggested Air-Cooled Hoods

In this section I’m only going to recommend air-cooled reflectors (no wings!) as they deliver the best results for cannabis growers.

 

“Narrow” Hood ($70) – Best for 2’x2′ or 2.5’x3′ space

iPower GLARCL6 Littlesun Hood Reflector, 6-Inch

I used this hood for a few months and it is great for containing heat and pointing light directly downwards. The dimensions are: 23″ x 17″ x 9″. However, the steep sides give it a somewhat narrow footprint that prevents you from being able to bring the light close without reducing the amount of space you can use to grow plants. At 12″ it can cover about a 2’x2.5′ area. At 18″ it can cover a 3’x3′, and at 24″ it covers a 4’x4′. This could be a great choice if you only want to grow a few small plants and want to make sure all the light goes directly to them.

 

“Cool Tube” Hood ($50) – For narrow spaces

iPower Cool Tube Reflector with Add-On Wing, 6-inch

This Cool Tube hood is perfect for growers who want an air-cooled reflector but don’t have the space to put a bigger hood in their garden (though if you can fit something bigger you should probably go with that for the better reflector).

The dimensions of this Cool Tube are 24″ x 12″ x 6″ which means it should even be able to fit even in a narrow closet or grow box as long as you have enough space lengthwise. The wing reflector can be removed if you need to make it fit in an more narrow space.

“Wider” Hood ($75) – Great light coverage for 2’x4′, 3’x3′ or 4’x4′

Hydro Crunch Large Air Cooled Grow Light Reflector with 6″ Duct & Glass Panel

This hood has a great light spread which allows you to bring the hood closer to the plants without reducing the light footprint. At 12″ away it covers about a 3’x3′ footprint, at 18″ it has a 4’x4′ footprint, and at 24″ it has a 5’x5′ footprint. Yet despite its wide spread it is small enough to fit in most setups (since the spread is helped by angled sides). Dimensions are 24″ x 21″ x 8″ so it can fit in a small 2’x4′ of 3’x3′ tent easily, and still give you complete coverage.

 

Brand Name “Wide” Hood ($180) – Perfect for 4’x4′ space

Sun System Blockbuster Air-Cooled Reflector, 6-Inch

This hood has a lot of really great features, though it comes with a big pricetag. This is the 3rd generation version of this brand name model, and it has been specifically designed for even light distribution in square spaces. This hood has 95% reflectivity, and the angles of the reflective materials have been engineered so the hood doesn’t create hot spots and disperses light most evenly. The dimensions are 25 1/2″ x 25 1/2″ which means it cannot fit in any space that has a 2′ width or less, so it’s not good for smaller setups. At a foot away it covers about a 3’x3′ footprint, at 18″ it has a 4’x4′ footprint, and at 24″ it has a 5’x5′ footprint. There is also an 8-inch version. If I was going to pick a new hood for a 4’x4′ tent and money wasn’t an issue, this is the one I would get 🙂

 

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Now that you know a little bit more about different types of hoods and reflectors, are you ready to set up your light and start growing? Learn how easy it is to set up your MH or HPS grow light!

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Jump to…

7 Tips to Growing Top-Shelf Buds

(Advanced Only) Cannabis Leaf Defoliation Technique

How to Grow Hydroponic Cannabis via Bubbleponics

Supercropping: Simple Secret to Bigger Yields

The post Which Reflector is Best for My MH/HPS Grow Light? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/600w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=600w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial Fri, 20 May 2016 05:56:41 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/faq/growing-cannabis-600w-shopping-list/ by Nebula Haze

The post 600W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Tutorial appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

See Other Examples of Cannabis Growing Setups

600W HPS Grow Setup (For Hobbyist Growers)

• Average Yields: 10-21 ounces
• Recommended 2-8 plants
• Grow space is 4’x4’x6.5’ or larger
• See a grow journal using this setup

Estimated Setup Cost: $495+

• costs more for premium version of cannabis equipment and optional accessories (that are nice to have but not necessary)

 

About This Setup

The 600W HPS is one of the most powerful and efficient setups you can buy to grow your own cannabis at home. Although the technology behind it is archaic, there’s no denying the high-yielding, high-potency power of the might 600W HPS. Part of the true power of this light comes from the fact that it can be kept so close to plants (as close as 8-10″) while lights of similar wattage have to be kept much further away (18″+).

Pros: Excellent yields, high potency, high bud density, most electrically efficient HPS, relatively cheap to buy especially compared to LEDs.

Cons: Old technology, emits suspicious yellow light, poorly-made models may emit RFI, can get pretty hot

 

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Complete Grow Supply List

This cannabis grow room setup list includes all the supplies you need to get to harvest.

Grow Light

• 600 Watt MH/HPS Grow Light
  • Example 1: Cheap but effective: HydroCrunch 600W HPS with wing reflector – $130
  • Example 2: Much better reflector: iPower 600 Watt HPS Digital Dimmable Grow Light – $175 (I’ve noticed the price fluctuates on Amazon listings, so shop around if it’s more expensive than $175)

* Alternative LED Grow Light: Get the HLG Blackbird (specifically designed for a 4’x4′ grow tent)

iPower 600W Dimmable HPS Grow Light

Grow Space

• Grow Tent Recommended Sizes
  • 4’x4’x6.5′ – an example is the CoolGrows 48”x48”x80” Grow Tent
  • Learn more about grow tents
  • Cost: $80
• Exhaust Fan
  • When you’re growing enough weed to fill a 4×4 tent, you need to make sure that smell isn’t escaping. A good fan and a reliable filter will take care of this problem.
  • Learn more about choosing and setting up an exhaust fan.
  • Example: VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM exhaust fan. If you plan to use a carbon filter to stop smells, it’s typically cheaper to get a kit that contains both the fan and filter than to buy them separately.
  • Cost: $75
• Carbon Scrubber
  • Must be used with an exhaust fan to effectively remove smells! Learn more about controlling odors.
  • Note: it’s sometimes cheaper to get a kit that contains both the exhaust fan and filter than buy them separately.
  • Recommended: 6-inch Carbon Filter, 6″ x 16″ version
  • Cost: $80

Plant Pots

I prefer fabric pots or air pots because cannabis plants grow faster but need to be watered more often than standard hard-sided plant pots. Both types work great for growing cannabis indoors. Often the best plant pot is whatever is cheap and easy for you to get.

• Recommended: Fabric pots between 2-7 gallons (any fabric pots work great so I pick whatever is cheap or looks the best to me)

Cost: $25

These 5-gallon fabric pots work great for growing cannabis in this setup.

 

Grow Medium (Soil, Coco, Hydro)

Grow mediums can include coco coir or soil (hydroponics for more advanced growers) but if you’re not sure, a coco-based soil like Coco Loco is perfect for beginnners.

• Recommended Soil: One 2 cu ft bag bag of coco-based soil with perlite should be able to fill 15 gallons worth of pots. For example, it will fill 3 x 5-gallon fabric pots.

Cost: ~$40

Coco Loco is a coco-based rich airy soil that cannabis plants thrive in

Nutrients

Many nutrient systems have a nutrient schedule so you give your plants the right ratios for each stage of life. Basically, you use a “vegetative” or all-purpose plant nutrient for the first part of your plant’s life and a “bloom” or low-nitrogen nutrients when buds are forming. Tip: Always start at half-strength with a new base nutrient system since the recommended amount can be too high for cannabis plants.

Recommended Nutrients: Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom nutrient combo is excellent, cheap, and easy to use for growing cannabis indoors.

• Dyna-Gro “Grow”: Give 1 tsp per gallon of water during the vegetative stage.
• Dyna-Gro “Bloom”: Give 1 tsp/gallon of water after buds start forming.

Learn about other cannabis nutrients we recommend

Cost: $25

Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom is my recommended nutrient system for newbies. One bottle for veg, one bottle for after buds start forming. 1 tsp/gallon. Super simple!

Seeds

See a list of recommended seed sources here.

Other Supplementary Items

• Get your seeds – $5-12/seed (on average, can be more or less depending on the breeder)
• 24-Hour Timer (to put your grow lights on a timer so the plants get a day and night period on a schedule). Why do cannabis plants need to be on a day/night schedule? What about autoflowering light schedules? – $10
• Water containers (I personally use a 3-gallon or 5-gallon water jug to mix up nutrients, but anything can work) – Much cheaper at Wal-Mart ($5-15) than online!
• Extra 1/8″ Rope Ratchets (sooooo handy) – These can be used to hang your grow light or carbon filter from inside the tent, and still be able to easily move it up and down without needing any strength. Your grow light usually comes with a set of rope ratchets, but it’s a great idea to get an extra set to hang the carbon filter – $15
• Thermometer/Humidity Monitor with a probe so you can keep track of the temperature inside the tent – $15
• PH Test Kit – Prevent potential nutrient deficiencies by testing the water pH: https://www.growweedeasy.com/ph – $15
• Measuring spoons for measuring out your nutrients (many people already have these) – $10
• Learn about other cool growing tools

Estimated Cost: $495+ (costs more to get optional items)

See Additional Grow Setups

 

A carbon scrubber prevents odors from leaking out of the tent in the flowering stage

On average this setup yields 10-21 ounces

 

Learn How to Grow 1 Pound of Weed Indoors (Proven Method) in this Setup

 

 

The post 600W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Tutorial appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/400w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=400w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial Fri, 20 May 2016 05:45:39 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/faq/growing-cannabis-400w-shopping-list/ by Nebula Haze

The post 400W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Shopping List appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

See Other Examples of Cannabis Growing Setups

400W HPS Grow Setup (For Hobbyist Growers)

• Average Yields: 7-14 ounces
• Recommended 2-6 plants
• Grow space is 3’x3’x6′ or 4’x4’x6′ (bare minimum is 2’x4’x6′)
• $495 to get the simplest version of this setup

 

About This Setup

When you’re just starting to foray into the world of larger grow lights, a 400W HPS is an appropriate first light to try. It’s energy efficient, relatively cheap, and makes for large colas than stretch far down the plant. These light are more popular than the 250W HPS, but less than the 600W HPS, and far less popular than the current line of LEDs or LECs. Still, these lights are a workhorse and will pay for themselves quickly in any medium-sized indoor cannabis grow.

Pros: Cheap, effective, high yields and potency

Cons: Not popular, yellow spectrum is easy to spot by nosy people, some models emit RFI which can alert HAM radio users to your grow

Cost Estimate: $495 to get the cheapest version of this setup (no premium equipment)

Check Out More Examples of Grow Setups

 

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Complete Grow Supply List

This cannabis grow room setup list includes all the supplies you need to get to harvest.

Grow Light

400W MH/HPS Grow Light

• This version is cheap but effective:  iPower 400W MH/HPS All-in-One kit – $120
• More expensive version but has an enclosed hood to help keep heat near the bulb – $190
• Alternative LED Grow Light: HLG 350R LED grow light (a VERY powerful LED) – $550

The iPower 400W MH/HPS All-in-One kit can produce some intense yields for just $120. Much cheaper than LEDs for the amount of yield but gets much hotter!

Grow Space

• Grow Tent Recommended Sizes
  • 2’x4’x6′ (bare minimum viable space) – An example is the CoolGrows 48″x24″x72″ Grow Tent
  • 3’x3’x6′  – An example is the CoolGrows 36″x36″x72″ Grow Tent
  • 4’x4’x6.5′ (recommended) – an example is the CoolGrows 48”x48”x80” Grow Tent – plenty of room to grow!
  • Learn more about grow tents
  • Cost: ~$100
• Exhaust Fan
  • A quality 6″ exhaust fan works best. Avoid small cheap “booster” fans as they usually don’t have enough power to exhaust all the hot air effectively. Hang from inside tent to help keep quiet.
  • Learn more about choosing and setting up an exhaust fan.
  • Example 1: Cheap but loud VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM exhaust fan. If you plan to use a carbon filter to stop smells, it’s typically cheaper to get a kit that contains both the fan and filter than to buy them separately. Avoid “booster” fans that cost under $35. Although they seem like a good deal, they’re not powerful enough to properly vent heat or use a carbon scrubber. I’ve tried.
  • Example 2: Quiet but expensive AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6 or CLOUDLINE T6 (T6 version is the same fan but has a digital interface)
  • Cost: ~$110 ($75-160)
• Carbon Scrubber
  • A carbon scrubber and an exhaust fan are used together to clean the air in your grow area.  Learn more about controlling odors.
  • Note: it’s sometimes cheaper to get a kit that contains both the exhaust fan and filter than buy them separately.
  • Recommended: 6-inch Carbon Filter, 6″ x 16″ version
  • Cost: ~$80

Connect the carbon filter to the fan inside the tent like this and smells get filtered before air exits the tent. Totally smell-free cannabis growing! (Click for closeup)

 

Plant Pots

I prefer fabric pots or air pots because cannabis plants grow faster. However, standard hard-sided plant pots also work well and can be watered less often.

• Recommended: Fabric pots between 2-7 gallons (here’s the brand I used last but I just pick what looks good because any fabric pots work great)
• Alternative: Regular plant pots between 2-5 gallons

Cost: $20

Plants grow faster in fabric pots compared to hard-sided pots, but need to be watered more often

Grow Medium (Soil, Coco, Hydro)

Grow mediums can include coco coir or soil (hydroponics for more advanced growers) but if you’re not sure, a coco-based soil like Coco Loco is perfect for beginnners.

• Recommended Soil: One 2 cu ft bag bag of coco-based soil with perlite should be able to fill 15 gallons worth of pots. For example, it will fill 5 x 3-gallon fabric pots.

Cost: ~$40

Coco Loco is a coco-based soil that makes thriving cannabis plants

Nutrients

• You need a “vegetative” or all-purpose plant nutrient for the first part of your plant’s life
• You need a “bloom” or low-nitrogen nutrient for the budding phase
• Many nutrient systems have a nutrient schedule so you give your plants the right ratios for each stage of life
• Always start at half strength with a new base nutrient system because the recommended strength is typically too high for cannabis

Get examples of great cannabis nutrients

Recommended Nutrients: Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom nutrient combo is excellent, cheap, and easy to use for growing cannabis.

• “Grow” bottle: Give 1 tsp per gallon of water during the vegetative stage
• “Bloom” bottle: Give 1 tsp/gallon of water during the flowering stage

Learn about other cannabis nutrients we recommend

Cost: $25

Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom is my recommended nutrient system for newbies. One bottle for veg, one for bloom. 1 tsp/gallon. Super simple!

Other Supplementary Items

• Get your seeds – $5-12/seed (on average, can be more or less depending on the breeder)
• 24-Hour Timer (to put your grow lights on a timer so the plants get a day and night period on a schedule). Why do cannabis plants need to be on a day/night schedule? What about autoflowering light schedules? – $10
• Water containers (I personally use a 3-gallon or 5-gallon water jug to mix up nutrients, but anything can work) – Much cheaper at Wal-Mart ($5-15) than online!
• Extra 1/8″ Rope Ratchets (sooooo handy) – These can be used to hang your grow light or carbon filter from inside the tent, and still be able to easily move it up and down without needing any strength. Your grow light usually comes with a set of rope ratchets, but it’s a great idea to get an extra set to hang the carbon filter – $15
• Thermometer/Humidity Monitor with a probe so you can keep track of the temperature inside the tent – $15
• PH Test Kit – Prevent potential nutrient deficiencies by testing the water pH: https://www.growweedeasy.com/ph – $15
• Measuring spoons for measuring out your nutrients (many people already have these) – $10
• Learn about other cool growing tools

Estimated Cost: $495+ plus the cost of seeds

See Additional Grow Setups

The post 400W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Shopping List appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/250w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=250w-hps-cannabis-grow-setup-tutorial Fri, 20 May 2016 05:33:53 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/faq/growing-cannabis-250w-shopping-list/ by Nebula Haze

The post 250W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Tutorial (Best for Cold Rooms) appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

 

250W HPS Grow Setup (For Hobbyist Growers)

This cannabis grow kit is great if you have a cool grow space (for example during the winter) because an HPS bulb gets hot (which helps raise the temperature) and even when the temperature is the same, marijuana plants are more cold-resistant under HPS compared to LEDs. Plants need to be warm to get the best results with LEDs.

• Average Yields: 4-9 ounces
• Total time: 2-4 months from seed to weed
• Grow space is 2’x4’x5’ or larger

Total Setup Cost: ~$400-500 ($500 includes professional smell filtering)

View a grow journal using this setup and here’s another grow journal in this setup.

 

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About This Setup

The 250W HPS is a great option for small-scale indoor cannabis growing especially if you have a grow room that tends to get cold. It delivers good yields, high potency, and it’s easy to use. The 250W also escapes much of the heat issues that larger models of HPS have, though they still have that tell-tale color that can alert people to your cannabis grow if it escapes the tent.

Pros: Cheap, easy to use, great yields, awesome potency

Cons: Hard to find (they were popular before LEDs hit the scene), harsh yellow light is easily distinguishable as a grow light

My last harvest with a 250W HPS grow light (dry yield was 8.97 oz) – View a video of the plants just before harvest

 

 

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Complete Grow Supply List

This cannabis grow room setup list includes all the supplies you need to grow from seed to harvest.

250W MH/HPS Grow Light 

The only model I can find these days is this 250W HPS kit by HTG Supply. What’s nice is it comes with everything you need. Just plug it in and you’re good to go.

• A 250W HPS is a great grow light for beginners who have a grow room that gets cold, for example during the winter. Plants grow quickly and produce excellent bud quality, density, and yields.

Cost: $120

* Alternative all-in-one 150W HPS – This light is significantly smaller (it uses 100W less), but if you want a cheap “all-in-one” grow light kit with the ballast and reflector built together…

• 150W HPS Complete System with Bulb – Alternative “All-In-One” Kit: Sun System 150W. Harvest up to 5 oz with an $85 all-in-one light.
• 2-5 oz harvest

Grow Tent (recommended sizes)

Just about any grow tent brand works great, but I’ve had good luck with the CoolGrows tents and they’re pretty reasonably priced.

• 2’x4’x5′ tent – an example is Cool Grows 48”x24”x60”
• 2’x4’x6′ tent (you’ll appreciate the extra height) – I use the CoolGrows 48″x24″x72″ Grow Tent
• 3’x3’x6′ tent (this is a good tent if you want a square space) – an example is CoolGrows 36″x36″x72″

Cost: ~$95

Learn more about grow tents

6″ Exhaust Fan 

An exhaust fan vents hot air and can be combined with a carbon filter to stop all smells from leaving the grow space. The 6″ size is plenty for a 250W.

• Example 1: Cheap but loud VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM exhaust fan. If you plan to use a carbon filter to stop smells, it’s typically cheaper to get a kit that contains both the fan and filter than to buy them separately. Avoid “booster” fans that cost under $35. Although they seem like a good deal, they’re not powerful enough to properly vent heat or use a carbon filter. I’ve tried.
• Example 2: Quiet but expensive AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6 or premium CLOUDLINE T6 (T6 version is the same fan but has a digital interface)
• Learn more about setting up an exhaust fan

Cost: $75+ ($75-160)

 

Carbon Filter / Scrubber (optional)

Used with an exhaust fan to remove weed smell from the air. When set up properly, a carbon filter removes 100% of odors. Learn more about controlling odors

• Recommended: 6-inch Carbon Filter, 6″ x 16″ version (for the cheapest option, get a kit that contains both fan and carbon filter instead of buying them separately)

Cost: ~$80

 

Plant Pots

I prefer fabric pots or air pots because cannabis plants grow faster. However, standard hard-sided plant pots also work well and can be watered less often.

• Recommended: Fabric pots between 2-7 gallons (here’s the brand I used last but I just pick what looks good because any fabric pots work great)
• Alternative: Regular plant pots between 2-5 gallons

Cost: $20

Plants grow faster in fabric pots compared to hard-sided pots, but need to be watered more often

 

Grow Medium (Soil, Coco, Hydro)

Grow mediums can include coco coir or soil (hydroponics for more advanced growers) but if you’re not sure, a coco-based soil like Coco Loco is perfect for beginnners.

• Recommended Soil: One 2 cu ft bag bag of coco-based soil with perlite should be able to fill 15 gallons worth of pots. For example, it will fill 5 x 3-gallon fabric pots.

Cost: ~$40

Coco Loco is a coco-based soil that makes thriving cannabis plants

Nutrients

Many nutrient systems have a nutrient schedule so you give your plants the right ratios for each stage of life. Basically you use a “vegetative” or all-purpose plant nutrient for the first part of your plant’s life and a “bloom” or low-nitrogen nutrients when buds are forming.

Tip: Always start at half-strength with a new base nutrient system since the recommended amount can be too high for cannabis plants.

Recommended Base Nutrients: Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom nutrient combo is excellent, cheap, and easy to use for growing cannabis.

• “Grow” bottle: Give 1 tsp per gallon of water during the vegetative stage
• “Bloom” bottle: Give 1 tsp/gallon of water during the flowering stage

Learn about other cannabis nutrients we recommend

Cost: $25

Dyna-Gro Grow + Bloom is my recommended nutrient system for newbies. One bottle for veg, one for bloom. 1 tsp/gallon. Super simple!

Seeds

See a list of recommended seed sources here.

Other Nice-to-Have Stuff

• 24-Hour Timer (to put your grow lights on a timer so the plants get a day and night period on a schedule). Why do cannabis plants need to be on a day/night schedule? What about autoflowering light schedules? – $10
• Water containers (I personally use a 3-gallon or 5-gallon water jug to mix up nutrients, but anything can work) – Much cheaper at Wal-Mart ($5-15) than online!
• Extra 1/8″ Rope Ratchets (sooooo handy) – These can be used to hang your grow light or carbon filter from inside the tent, and still be able to easily move it up and down without needing any strength. Your grow light usually comes with a set of rope ratchets, but it’s a great idea to get an extra set to hang the carbon filter – $10
• Thermometer/Humidity Monitor with a probe so you can keep track of the temperature inside the tent – $15
• PH Test Kit – Prevent potential nutrient deficiencies by testing the water pH: https://www.growweedeasy.com/ph – $20
• Measuring spoons for measuring out your nutrients (many people already have these) – $12

Learn about other cool growing tools

Estimated Cost: ~$400-500 ($485-505 with professional smell filtering) plus the cost of seeds

• Ultra budget (no smell filtering) – ~$400 plus the cost of seeds
• Only the necessary stuff + smell filtering: ~$485
• Get everything including the premium equipment and optional extras: ~$505

See Additional Grow Setups

Got a 6+ oz Harvest! Read the tutorial on how to grow exactly like this! (in this setup)

A hydroponic plant grown in this setup (6+ oz harvest!) – Read the grow journal!

These plants were grown under a 250W HPS. Here’s the grow journal (the 250W HPS beat LEDs in a side-by-side experiment, check it out!)

More plants I grew under a 250W HPS in this setup

The post 250W MH/HPS Cannabis Grow Setup & Tutorial (Best for Cold Rooms) appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/growing-cannabis-setup-examples?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=growing-cannabis-setup-examples Thu, 12 May 2016 00:05:02 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/faq/growing-cannabis-shopping-list/ by Nebula Haze

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Quick Examples of Common Cannabis Growing Setups

These electricity prices are calculated for the US average electricity cost of $0.12/kWh. Depending on where you live, it can be higher or lower. I've heard from marijuana growers who's electricity costs half as much, but also some who's electricity costs twice that or more. 

The post Complete Cannabis Grower’s Shopping List Examples appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

Examples of Common Cannabis Growing Setups

This page will lead you to some setup shopping lists for a handful of the most popular styles of growing cannabis. You can use the information below to help decide which type of lighting you want to use if you don’t already know. The type of lighting you use will steer you towards some guides that will show you everything that’s needed to get started growing potent homegrown cannabis. You’ll get the initial setup cost, the cost to reach your first harvest (the highest cost), and the cost of subsequent harvests (much cheaper after the first).

2’x2′ Grow Tent – Small

• Ultra short edition – 3′ tall
  • 65W – HLG 65 LED Grow Light
  • 1-3 oz per harvest
  • $300 to get started
• Room to grow – 4′ tall
  • 100W – SF-1000 LED Grow Light
  • 2-4 oz per harvest
  • $430 to get started

Example of a 2’x2′ grow tent with 100W LED Grow Light (up to 4 oz)

2’x4′ Grow Tent – Medium

• Standard Power – 5′ tall
  • 200W – SF-2000 LED grow light
  • 5-11 oz per harvest
  • $555 to get started
• Max Power – 6′ tall
  • 300W – Mars Hydro TSL2000 LED 
  • 7-13 oz per harvest
  • $575 to get started
• Over Power – 6′ tall
  • 300-400W range (dimmable) – for growers who go crazy with power
  • Up to 16 oz per harvest
  • $495 to get started with a 400W HPS
  • $745 to get started with 315 LEC
  • $890 to get started with HLG 350R (Massively overpowered LED)

Here’s my current grow inside one of these right now. I think this is the perfect size for most home growers because it can yield many ounces up to a pound per harvest depending on the grow light you use.

200W LED grow light by Spider Farmer (up to 11 oz – see the grow journal)

3’x3′ Grow Tent (Square shape is better in some spaces) – Medium

• Max Power – 6′ tall
  • 300W – Mars Hydro FC-E3000
  • 7-13 oz per harvest
  • $475 to get started with FC-E3000
• Max Power (cold grow room) – 6′ tall
  • 315 LEC or 400W HPS (dimmable)
  • 7-16 oz per harvest
  • $745 to get started with 315 LEC
  • $495 to get started with a 400W HPS

Example of a single hydro plant growing in a 3’x3′ grow tent with a 400W HPS. You could fit more plants if you use pots instead of hydro

Mars Hydro has a remarkably cheap yet effective new 300W LED (harvest up to 13 oz) for a 3’x3′ released in 2025

4’x4′ Grow Tent – Large

• 1+ lb LED Producer – 6.5′ tall
  • HLG Blackbird 600W LED grow light
  • 11-22 oz per harvest
  • $995 to get started
• 1+ lb HPS Producer 6.5′ tall
  • 600W HPS (dimmable)
  • 10-21 oz per harvest
  • $495 to get started

Example of a 4’x4′ grow tent (easily yield a pound – see the grow journal)

Now that you’ve got an overview, let’s look at each of the cannabis grow kits a little closer.

 

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Example Setups for Different Lighting Types

65W LED Mini Tent

Average Yield: 1-3 oz Per Harvest

Initial Setup Cost: $300

 

100W LED Grow Light in Mini Tent

Average Yield: 2-4 oz per Harvest

Initial Setup Cost: $430 to get started

 

200W LED (Only need 5 feet of height)

Can fit in some closets

Average Yield: 5-11 oz Per Harvest

Initial Setup Cost: $555 to start

 

 

300W LED Setup

Average Yield: 7-13 oz Per Harvest

Cost: $575 to Start

 

315W LEC Grow Light

Average Yield: 7-13 oz per Harvest

Cost: $745 to Start

 

350W LED Setup

Average Yield: 8-14 oz Per Harvest

Cost: $700 to Start

 

400W MH/HPS

Average Yield: 7-14 oz Per Harvest

Cost: $495 to start

 

600W MH/HPS Grow Setup

Average Yield: 10-21 oz Per Harvest

Cost: $495 to start

 

600W Premium LED Grow Light Setup

Average Yield: 10-22 oz per Harvest

Cost: $995 to start

 

Although there are larger size grow lights available (1000W and beyond), at that size it starts going outside the scope of a “hobbyist” grower as far as ease and yields. Also, I’ve found it’s typically better to have multiple 300W or 600W lights than one enormous grow light

Learn the basics of growing weed: Beginner’s Guide

These Cannabis Growing Setup Examples Assume You’re Starting From Scratch and Don’t Plan to DIY Anything

I tried to include everything in these lists, as if someone were growing marijuana completely from scratch. For each example I calculated the cost as if you were buying everything online off of Amazon.com from the included links. A lot of these items cost less money if you shop around online or buy them in person, and you may already have some stuff lying around the house already.

For each example I also included a matching grow tent, because I believe grow tents are the best way to create a perfect environment for your plant at a really low cost. But if you want to skip the tent and make your own grow space in a grow box or closet, learn how to create the perfect growing environment for your plants!

2 healthy, manifolded plants under a 600W MH (Metal Halide)

Over the years we’ve had lots of people request “starter” shopping lists for new growers – it can be frustrating trying to figure out exactly what supplies you need to start growing cannabis indoors! So today I decided to make a few comprehensive shopping lists for common setups that include everything from nutrients to grow lights to rope ratchets. I’ll even tell you what yields, electricity cost and cost/ounce to expect with each setup.

If you don’t want to have to figure out exactly what to buy to start growing, this article is for you! I will break down what to expect based on your space limits and desired yields, so you can get the exact perfect setup for your situation.

I need more/different help! Take me to the 10-Step Quick Start Grow Guide

 

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Don’t Forget to Budget Money for Growing Medium and Plant Containers!

Remember to consider the growing medium (not included in totals). Here’s my very general estimate for 1-2 plants (you will need more to grow more plants). So consider you will need to spend an extra $30-125 for your growing medium + the cost of your container.

Choose One:

• Super Soil $40 (for 10 gallons of super soil) + container
  https://www.growweedeasy.com/super-soil
• Soil $30 (for 10 gallons Happy Frog soil) + container
  https://www.growweedeasy.com/soil
• Coco Coir $30 (for 2x coco bricks + perlite for 10 gallons) + container
  https://www.growweedeasy.com/coco
• Hydroponics $150 (to make reservoir)
  https://www.growweedeasy.com/hydro

Compare different growing mediums for growing cannabis

 

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Learn the basics of growing cannabis!

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Jump to…

10-Step Quick Start Guide to Growing

How Long Does it Take to Grow Cannabis?

Where do I get seeds?

Check These 7 Things & Cure 99% of Marijuana Growing Problems

 

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The post Complete Cannabis Grower’s Shopping List Examples appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/5-secrets-cannabis-heat-control?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=5-secrets-cannabis-heat-control Sat, 09 Apr 2016 03:58:38 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/newsletter_issue/5-secrets-to-controlling-heat-indoors/ by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

1. Supplements That Protect Against Heat Damage
2. Environment Hacks
3. Optimize Your Grow Lights
4. Change Your Light Schedule
5. Heat Resistant Strains

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The post 5 Secrets to Controlling Heat Indoors appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

1. Supplements That Protect Against Heat Damage
2. Environment Hacks
3. Optimize Your Grow Light
4. Change Your Light Schedule
5. Heat Resistant Strains

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Are your indoor cannabis plants stressed out by the heat? Controlling heat in the grow room is one aspect of growing marijuana indoors that can be difficult for many of us growers. Grow lights provide our plants with lots of life-giving light, but they also get hot, and big grow lights (even some LEDs) can raise the temperature of a room by several degrees.

Quick Heat Stress Tip: Of course, the best thing you can do is control the heat. But if that’s not possible, sea kelp extract can help cannabis plants deal with heat and quickly recover from heat stress (use at 1 tsp/gallon).

Each cannabis strain is a little different and some plants can handle hotter temperatures than others, but most plants start suffering from heat stress when their temperature gets over 85°F / 30°C.

Temperatures above 85°F / 30°C often causes problems, but if it’s not too severe plants may still grow slowly.

Some sensitive cannabis strains from cold climates (most often the short, squat, Indica strains with huge leaves) may start showing heat stress if the temperature rises above 80°F / 27°C. To avoid heat stress, you must keep your grow space below a particular plant’s comfort threshold.

Too much heat, especially over time, can greatly harm or even kill your cannabis plants.

But it’s not just plant growth that benefits from ideal temperatures. Controlling the temperature in the flowering stage has immense benefits to bud quality.

Buds that develop in a good environment reward you with increased density, terpene levels, and overall THC levels/potency.

On the flip side, too much heat harms bud development in the flowering stage by burning off smell/potency, discoloring buds, and causing buds to grow loose or airy.

Developing in heat can make buds look “ugly”.

Heat or light stress can cause a plant to keep making new growth on the parts of the buds that are closest to the light. When you see these top-heavy oddly-shaped “fist” buds, it’s usually the result of heat and/or light stress.

What can you do to protect your cannabis plants from heat damage?

This tutorial will teach you tactics that you can use to control temperature and fix heat problems to produce a plant paradise. You also get tips to help your cannabis plants thrive even if the grow space is getting too hot.

This tutorial shows you how to deal with heat so you grow healthy plants with beautiful potent top-shelf buds.

 

1.) Supplements That Protect Against Heat Damage

Some supplements can help protect your cannabis plants so they are more resistant and/or recover more quickly from heat stress.

However, many different companies offer supplements and it can be confusing to decide which one – if any – is best for your garden.

Try to get supplements and nutrients from the same company

For the most part, there is no best supplement for heat (or anything really). A lot of different supplements will get you to the same place in the end. Because of that, when possible it’s a good idea to choose supplements made by the same company as your nutrients instead of trying to find the “best” supplement.

This is because during the process of creating a complete nutrient lineup, nutrient companies specifically test their supplements to make sure they work together with the nutrients in their lineup nutrients without causing lockout or other unexpected problems.

So if you’re using the General Hydroponics Flora Trio nutrients, for example, it’s much safer for your plants to add supplements by General Hydroponics if possible. If you were using Botanicare nutrients you’d look at the supplements that Botanicare carries, etc. Learn about different types of nutrients for growing cannabis.

Use supplements to help protect your plants from heat damage if temperatures are rising too high

Seaweed Kelp Extract

One of the best inoculants against heat stress is a surprising gift from the ocean; seaweed! As a bonus it contains small amounts of trace nutrients and minerals. Many different nutrient companies use seaweed kelp extract as part of their supplement lineup, which means you have a lot of choices to choose from if you want to incorporate seaweed into your grow.

A few companies offer seaweed extract by itself, like organic Bloom City Liquid Seaweed. Liquid Kelp is a lovely choice for those growing outdoors or in super soil as they contribute to a healthy soil web matrix. Suitable for soil growers who want to avoid using mineral-based nutrients, but can also be used in coco or hydro (just make sure it doesn’t clog any nozzles).

Pure sea kelp extract is a great organic heat stress supplement. Use at 1 tsp/gallon.

If your nutrient company doesn’t offer a specific Sea Kelp product, you can almost always find sea kelp extract as an ingredient in one or many of their supplements. For example, General Hydroponics has a great all-in-one supplement called Floralicious Plus that contains several ingredients that work together to not only protect your plant against heat with seaweed extract, but can help it to produce better in other situations, too.

Or if you’re growing with Fox Farms nutrients, their Kelp Me Kelp You supplement not only has seaweed but also other ingredients that can make cannabis plants more hardy. So a great marijuana supplement for heat stress.

When starting out with supplements, it’s often best to start with something that matches your base nutrients and has sea kelp extract as an ingredient, like Floralicious Plus by General Hydroponics.

Silica Supplement

Supplementing your plants with extra silica (listed on the label of supplements as Potassium silicate) is not usually needed for healthy plant growth. There is almost always some amount of silica available, and plants don’t need a whole lot of silica to survive.

That means if your plants aren’t stricken with a (super rare) silica deficiency and are living in a great environment, adding extra silica might not give you tangible benefits. However, if your cannabis plants are under specific types of stress or are generally living in adverse conditions, extra silica can make life easier for your plant.

Silica (listed as Potassium silicate ) helps make plants more resistant to heat. Examples: General Hydroponics Armor Si and Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt. It’s especially helpful to give extra Silica while your plants are still growing stems and leaves, as the silica gets incorporated into the cell walls.

The most popular silica supplement for marijuana plants may be Bloom City Silica Boost. (Use at 1 tsp/gallon, stop several weeks before harvest)

Plant roots with access to silica (Si) happily drink it up and the silica gets incorporated into plant cells, increasing the strength of individual cell walls. These “armored” cells help improve the hardiness, vigor, and structure of the plant. Kind of like sending your plants to the gym.

Benefits of Silica Supplements

• Plants supplemented with silica are generally more resistant to heat or cold stress as well as some types of disease.
• Silica increases the microscopic “abrasiveness” of leaves, which can act as a deterrent to pests and herbivores (like deer). In fact, if you’ve ever been given a paper cut by a piece of grass, you can thank silica for making those “sharp” edges.
• Silica helps plants get the nutrients they need. Silica is effective at making phosphorus more available to the plant, which can be helpful in the flowering stage when the plant is going through phosphorus at a much higher rate due to the process of making buds.
• Silica can also help the plant roots better absorb micronutrients (including boron, copper, iron, manganese and zinc) while making it harder for the plant to absorb certain toxic substances like aluminum and salt/sodium.

So again, silica won’t magically increase your plant growth, but it can help make up for some problems with the environment. Because of this, nearly all professional nutrient companies carry a quality silica supplement as part of their lineup.

I like Armor Si by General Hydroponics, but again that’s because they make my base nutrients. There is a silica supplement available from almost every major nutrient company out there and you’re least likely to run into problems if you go with the company that matches your nutrients.

Armor Si by General Hydroponics is an excellent silica supplement, especially if the rest of your nutrients are from General Hydroponics.

Note: Silica supplements (or more specifically, their main ingredient Potassium silicate) will raise the pH of your water, so you may need to use a little bit extra PH Down. Learn more about pH.

Root Health Supplement (Essential for Hydroponic Growing in Heat)

Not only does heat bother your plants above ground, but the roots may also become diseased. When growing cannabis hydroponically (and to a lesser extent when growing in soil or coco) it’s very easy for your roots to start running into problems like root rot when the temperature starts getting too high.

Cannabis plants in hydroponic systems are prone to root rot if you don’t give them a root supplement. Especially if it’s hot!

Full Tutorial – How to Get Rid of Root Rot

The types of microorganisms that attack roots thrive in hot, wet conditions without much oxygen. Unfortunately, in hydroponics your water can’t hold as much dissolved oxygen when it’s hot, and dissolved oxygen is one of the best ways to fight off root disease.

So it’s sort of a double-whammy for plants grown hydroponically when it gets too hot in the grow room: they’re getting less oxygen AND becoming more vulnerable to root rot.

Besides using an air pump with large air stones to create lots of bubbles in your reservoir (learn more about growing cannabis hydroponically), the best thing you can do to keep roots healthy is control the heat.

Unfortunately, as you know, controlling the heat is often easier said than done.

There are some products that are made up of beneficial bacteria and other microorganisms that specifically fight root rot. These work by out-competing the bad microorganisms in your water reservoir and populating your reservoir with friendly ones that actually help your roots.

Drooping is often the first sign your plants are suffering from root rot

Plants with root rot may also start getting what looks like various nutrient deficiencies, but the true cause is actually the unhealthy roots

 

My product of choice for fighting root rot is Hydroguard by Botanicare. Normally I only use nutrients and supplements by General Hydroponics but in my experience, this product has been the best for fighting root rot in DWC / hydro, so I use it specifically. I’m definitely not saying it’s the best root supplement out there, but it’s the best one I’ve ever used and I want to recommend something I know for sure will work. It doesn’t change the pH of the water, and it doesn’t interact with other supplements. I’ve seen it actually fight root rot directly, even when it’s hot, and I never go a grow without it.

I highly recommend Hydroguard as a root supplement for any hydroponic grower struggling with heat or root rot

I’ll be honest, I grow hydroponically in San Diego, and my grow room is too hot during the summer. I used to suffer from root rot but as long as I use 1 teaspoon per gallon of this supplement in my reservoir, I see white, healthy roots even in the heat.

I realize this isn’t a direct method to combat heat; rather, it’s a way to help deal with the consequences of too-high heat when it can’t be controlled. It’s best to control the heat in your grow area, but if that’s impossible Hydroguard will help keep your roots healthy in DWC / Hydro! It’s cheap and a little bit goes a long way. A 1-quart bottle will last you more than one grow!

 

2.) Environment Hacks

Add CO2 to the Air

Plants can easily survive in temps up to 95°F (35°C) when the air is being supplemented with extra CO2. However, for CO2 to make a difference to your plants, you need relatively strong grow lights (i.e. HPS, LEC, or big LEDs). But for those with strong grow lights, adding extra CO2 can result in faster growth as well as making it so plants can better handle the heat.

Learn how to add CO2 to your grow

Choose Soil or Coco (Hand-Watered Grow) Over DWC/Hydro

Growing cannabis hydroponically can give you some of the fastest growth rates of any style of growing, but as mentioned earlier, hydro does not really play well with hot temperatures because too much heat tends to trigger root problems and slower growth.

We talked about supplements that help prevent root rot for hydroponic plants, but the next step is to cut out the water reservoir altogether and go for a hand-watered grow. That’s because hand-watered plants are inherently much more resistant to high temperatures. Not only are the roots relatively safe from the heat (unlike in hydro) but the growing medium can hold a lot of oxygen no matter what the temperature (a lack of oxygen at the roots causes major problems in hydro).

Plants grown in containers or in the ground tend to be more resistant to heat compared to hydro.

Soil in regular containers is probably the most common way to grow cannabis indoors, and that combo works great.

But when it comes to growing in hot temps, coco coir may be a better choice than soil. In particular, coco coir inherently has properties and hormones that encourage healthy root growth and promote hardiness against heat.

Soil is a good choice, but coco coir is even better when it comes to heat.

Use Smart Pots or Air Pots (instead of hard-sided pots) 

Choose a Smart Pot (fabric pot) or Air Pruning Pot (plastic pot covered in holes) to let air in and help cannabis plants with the heat. These pots help increase evaporation from the sides of the root ball, which not only reduces the chance of overwatering but also helps keep roots healthy and heat-resistant by providing plenty of oxygen from the sides.

Use Smart Pots (fabric pots) instead of regular containers as further protection against heat. These coco-grown plants were regularly exposed to temps that crept up over 85°F (30°C), and although that wasn’t ideal they made it to harvest just fine.

Air pruning pots are plastic but have holes in the sides, which accomplishes the same thing as fabric pots (gets more air to the roots) and makes them more heat-resistant.

Growing cannabis with coco coir in fabric pots is one of the best ways to grow if you want your plants to be able to resist the heat.

Keep Roots Cool

Your plant is much more resistant to heat if the roots don’t cook too, whether you’re growing in a pot or in a hydroponic reservoir. If you can find a way to help keep the roots around 70°F (21°C), your plant will suffer less and recover more quickly from a hot spell.

Watering your plant regularly when it’s hot will keep roots from drying out and help them stay cool. If the sides of the pots are getting hot from the grow light, put your potted plant inside a bigger pot (or find some other way to block the pot from direct light. This can help keep roots significantly cooler.

If the sides of pots are getting hot from the light, put the whole plant in a bigger pot to create an air gap and keep the roots out of direct light

Use Fan Placement to Reduce Electricity & Bring Down Temps

Air conditioners can easily control the heat in any room but they use a lot of electricity, which can get expensive really fast! Unfortunately, a lot of growers are using an AC (or just dealing with too much heat) when they could actually reconfigure their fans to be able to maintain the right temps without needing an AC at all.

Proper fan placement can also help save costs because if you use fans more effectively you can use less of them. A lot of fans can use a surprising amount of energy that can really add up over time. That means you don’t want to fill your grow space with tons of fans if you don’t need to.

Being smart about fan placement and investing in electrically efficient fans can save you a lot of money. 

Exhaust Fans

The most effective way to control heat is to use an exhaust fan to vent hot air out of the grow space. Make sure your exhaust fan is set up to make sure you have the most cooling power. Here are some tips:

• Grow space is mostly sealed – Your grow space should be mostly sealed for an effective exhaust system, with just ports for air to come in near the bottom of the grow space, and a port for your exhaust fan to blow air out from near the top of the grow space. I highly recommend getting a grow tent for smaller grows to make this super cheap and easy. A grow tent with a strong exhaust fan creates a breezy plant environment that may not even need many other fans. As an added bonus, a grow tent makes it easy to control smells with a carbon filter so no one can smell your plants even in the same room.
• Strong exhaust fan – Your exhaust fan should be strong enough for the size of your space or tent. Avoid cheap ducting fans as they don’t move enough air to cool your grow light. Learn more about choosing the right exhaust fan.
• Vent air from top of grow space – Heat rises to the top of your grow tent/area, so make sure your exhaust fan is located at the top of the tent pointing out.
• Intake holes – You want holes to intake air, about 4x the size of your exhaust hole if possible. When the intake hole is too small it’s hard on your fan, the exhaust won’t be able to vent as much hot air. With grow tents, the intake ports are already built-in so you just leave them open so air can get through.
• Input fresh, cool air – The intake hole should have direct access to cool, fresh air. The inside of the grow space is always going to be at least a few degrees above the temperature of the intake air, so if the intake air isn’t cool the grow space will be even hotter. Cool air stays lower to the ground, so make sure your intake ports are as close to the floor as possible.

Learn more about setting up exhaust system.

Ducting

Keep all ducting as straight and short as possible. You want a short direct line to the window so that hot air is immediately vented outside. Try to avoid using anything in the window that restricts airflow. Though it’s often necessary to use some type of screen to make sure no one can see in, try to do the best you can to obstruct airflow as little as possible. How can I set up an exhaust that looks normal from outside?

Try to keep any ducting as short and straight as possible.

Window Fan

It may seem simple, but a window fan can be surprisingly effective at venting some of the heat if the grow light is raising the overall temperature of your room. In some cases, a window fan can cool your room by several degrees, which can help keep your plants cool. I sometimes call this a “No-Ducting Exhaust” but honestly it’s more like a ‘poor man’s exhaust’ if this is the only thing you’re doing to vent out heat. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t help,

If grow lights are raising the temperature of your room, a window fan can help vent heat and cool the room down by a few degrees

In order for a window fan to cool a room most effectively, there needs to be some sort of “intake” for cool air to get in. It’s like a bigger version of an exhaust system. A separate open window in the same room is perfect, though an open door can also help, especially if there’s an open window somewhere in the house. However, even in a completely closed room, a window fan can help keep temps down somewhat in the room because it helps vent out heat from the grow light. Although blowing air out is often the most effective, if the air outside is really cool sometimes it helps to blow air in. Experimentation is good.

Clip-On Fans

Small fans help ensure there is a gentle breeze around your plants and buds. This helps plants grow faster, helps buds develop more dense/tight, and reduces the chance of issues like white powdery mildew or bud rot.

Some specialty clip-on-fans are designed specifically to attach to the poles of a grow tent.

Oscillating Fans

Oscillating fans are perfect for reducing “hot spots” that form in the grow space. Certain grow lights can cause major hot spots. If it’s most hot directly under the light, using fans to blow that heat away from your plants can make a huge difference in how much heat they experience.

In addition to oscillating fans, using a strong-enough exhaust fan with a big intake hole helps keep everything moving so hot spots don’t form. In fact, a smallish grow tent with a good exhaust fan may not even need extra fans because the exhaust fan itself will make the entire tent breezy.

Just be aware that adding oscillating fans doesn’t bring down the overall temperature in the tent. Fans only move air around. So if the entire grow space is already hot, adding more fans isn’t going to help.

Learn more about how to effectively set up oscillating fans in the grow room.

 

3.) Optimize Your Grow Light 

There are several ways you can optimize your grow lights, up to and including upgrading to better ones.

Get the Right Size Grow Light (a smaller grow light doesn’t necessarily mean lower yields!)

Grow lights that are optimized for your size grow space tend to reduce problems with heat. Too much heat hurts yields by making plants grow poorly. On top of that, too much light (light stress) can prevent buds from fattening and make plants more sensitive to heat.  That means having the right size light for your space will help prevent the space from overheating. When buying a grow light, many manufacturers list which size space the particular grow light is optimized for (aka 2’x4′ or 4’x4′). Try to match the right size grow light to your space.

In some cases, getting a smaller light can actually increase yields, especially if the heat is out of control with your current light.

 If you’re struggling with heat and plants are constantly heat stressed, consider stepping down the light. These plants grew better after the grower turned down the power.

These plants were also getting way too hot. The grower started getting better yields when they took one of the LED panels out of the space.

Side note: I’ve found that older and “blurple” colored LED lights tend to put out far more heat than modern LED panels. Buds also don’t fatten as well under them.

Avoid blurple LEDs for growing weed!

Use an LED Grow Light

When it comes to heat control, LEDs are hands-down the best cannabis grow light. As of 2025, multiple newer LED grow lights have proven to be incredible at growing cannabis. These modern LEDs have been developed using real cannabis plants and live up to the LED hype, producing amazing yields and beautiful bud quality.

In my experience, nearly all newer LEDs run cooler per watt than other grow lights like HPS, or CMH/LEC.

On top of the fact that LEDs produce less heat compared to other lights, cannabis plants under LEDs typically can stand higher temperatures. So LEDs give you a light that puts off less heat and plants that can stand more heat. If heat is a concern, you want to go with LEDs.

Note: LEDs perform poorly in the cold. If you deal with cold in the grow space, HPS or CMH/LEC may be a better choice since they produce more heat and plants can stand cooler temperatures under them.

There are a lot of LEDs to choose from and the sheer number of options can be overwhelming. If you’re interested in getting your first LED and aren’t sure which one to get, Spider Farmer brand LEDs are a good mix of quality and price. They get a good rate of growth in the vegetative stage and better yields/bud quality than many LEDs in the same price range. I recommend avoiding generic LEDs (like you would buy from Alibaba) because they usually get hotter than expected for the wattage and often produce poor yields or bud quality.

The Spider Farmer SF-2000 LED grow light uses 200W of electricity and produces relatively little heat.

In my most recent grow, the Spider Farmer SF-2000 produced over 10 oz in a 2’x4′ grow tent, or over 1.5 grams/watt. The plants grew quickly and well. I got the buds lab tested and it produced more terpenes and THC than the other LEDs I tested at the same time. A great choice for under $200.

My friend used the Spider Farmer SF-1000 (100W and costs $90) in a 2’x2′ grow tent and produced several ounces. This light can be kept 8″ (20 cm) away or even closer for some plants, which makes it effective for small spaces.

Learn about other popular LED companies for growing cannabis.

Reduce Power

Many LEDs and other types of grow lights are “dimmable” which means they have different power settings that allow you to reduce the power of your light. For example, you might be able to set your grow light to 75% or 50% power. In these modes, your grow light will use less power and give off less light/heat. If there’s a heat wave coming up, it might be helpful to turn down the power until things cool down.

Raise Grow Lights

Raising your lights tends to help bring down the temperature experienced by the plants, especially with big fluorescent lights, CMH/LEC, and MH/HPS grow lights. Getting a lot of light can make plants more likely to suffer from heat, so another bonus of moving your lights further away can help them be more heat-resistant.

Note: If I need to raise my grow light higher than the normal hanger allows, I use zip ties to attach the grow light to the top of the tent. However, make sure to leave at least a little air gap so you don’t have a hot lamp touching the top surface of the tent directly (this can be a fire hazard).

Raise grow lights (if possible) when the plants are getting too hot to help reduce the heat they experience and especially reduce heat on developing buds. Sometimes a few inches can make a difference.

Learn more about how far away to keep grow lights from your plants.

 

4.) Change Your Light Schedule

Opt for 18/6 Light Schedule in the Vegetative Stage

Many growers give their plants 24 hours of light a day in the vegetative stage to produce the fastest growth. Yet turning the grow light off for several hours each day helps keep the temperature down, especially if lights go off during the hottest part of the day. The 18/6 light schedule is suitable for all plants in the vegetative stage, and for auto-flowering strains from seed to harvest.

Plug your grow light in an electrical timer to control the light schedule

Side Note: Although plants do grow faster if they’re getting 24 hours of light a day, you get diminishing returns after 18 hours of light a day. Cannabis plants benefit from having a night stage, and that helps make up for the lack of extra light. The difference in growth between 18/6 and 24/0 isn’t very noticeable (the increase in growth may not justify the extra electricity and heat).

Learn more about cannabis light schedules here.

Set Your Dark Period for the Hottest Part of the Day

This is a super simple solution to help control the heat for growers who get high temperatures in the middle of the day. User your timer to set your “Off” time to happen during the hottest hours of the day and you’re done. As long as you make sure plants don’t get light during their dark period, they won’t realize their “day” is during your night.

 

5.) Start with a Heat-Resistant Strain

Some strains are inherently more resistant to heat than others. For example, strains that originated from the equatorial region, including many Sativa and Haze strains, can resist much higher temperatures than strains that originated in colder regions, such as many Indica strains.

• Tall strains with thin leaves tend to be relatively heat-resistant
• Short, bushy strains with fat leaves tend to be more sensitive to heat
• Check the strain description to see if it mentions anything about temperature

Here are some strains that are heat resistant, easy to grow, and produce great effects.

Photoperiod (Traditional) Strains

White Widow

• Legendary strain
• Buds produce smooth relaxing effects that are great for enjoying with friends
• Overall easy-to-grow and resistant to heat and mold
• Has a surprisingly short flowering stage (8-9 weeks) for a Sativa-dominant strain, and doesn’t get too tall
• Great yields even if you mess up a little
• Get White Widow from Seed Supreme (ships from USA)

White Widow is a legend!

Purple Thai

• Thrives in higher heat and humidity than most strains
• Grows tall and stretchy so you need to train the plant to reduce the height (or it may grow into your light)
• Pretty potent at 22% THC but still more of a “head high” (it may even be suitable for day use for high-tolerance people)
• Get Purple Thai from Seed Supreme

Purple Thai laughs in the face of heat!

Afghan

• In addition to doing well in the heat, this strain is overall easy-to-grow and resistant to pests and mold
• Buds produce very heavy effects (a “brain melter”)
• Great yields and bud quality
• Get these Afghan genetics.

This Afghan plant thrived in burning hot temperatures during a heat wave.

Sour Diesel

• Withstands heat and light better than most strains I’ve grown
• Strong fast plants that tend to be stretchy/tall (not the best choice for small spaces)
• Buds are consistently potent and high quality
• Takes 12 weeks in the flowering stage but rewards with huge yields
• Get these Sour Diesel genetics.

Sour Diesel is the plant on the left. It produced over 9 ounces on one plant.

This bud from that Sour Diesel plant grew within 8″ (20cm) of a 600W grow light in the middle of a heatwave. The plant on the right suffered tons of damage despite being further away. On the other hand, the Sour Diesel buds came out huge and potent with a little heat foxtailing on top buds that were closest to the grow light.

 

Auto-Flowering Strains

The Ruderalis hemp ancestor of all auto-flowering strains originated in the frigid cold climate of northern Siberia. These plant’s developed the auto-flowering trait so they could complete their whole life cycle during 2-month Arctic summer. Unlike photoperiod plants, these plants didn’t have the luxury to wait until the sun told them winter was coming. They had to complete their whole life as fast as possible. As a result of the cold climate of their ancestors, auto-flowering strains tend to be sensitive to heat. However, some breeders have bred out the trait by crossing with heat-tolerant strains. The following is an example of a heat-resistant auto-flowering strain that also produces great buds.

Amnesia Kush Auto

• Gets a bit tall, but usually not too bad since it’s an autoflowering strain
• Excellent “day” buds with a pleasant mental buzz
• Get Amnesia Kush Auto from Seed Supreme (ships from USA)

Get Amnesia Kush Auto for your garden!

Auto Blackberry Kush

• Beginner-friendly
• Resistant to heat as well as plant stress in general
• Incredible fruity smell
• “Body stone” that keeps you glued to the couch
• Get these Auto Blackberry Kush genetics.

An Auto Blackberry Kush plant in a DIY setup

Dos Si Dos Auto

• Easy to grow (can handle some mistakes)
• Smooth, relaxing effects
• Above-average yields
• Buds smell of citrus with hints of cake or cookies
• Get these Dos Si Dos Auto genetics

Dos Si Dos auto by Barney’s Farm is known for its yields, bud quality, and fast growth.

 

If you have experience with a great heat-resistant cannabis strain, please contact us!

 

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Most importantly, take extra good care of heat-stressed plants – try to baby them as best you can!

 

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Jump to…

Growing Cannabis with Super Soil

How to Use Coco Coir as a Growing Medium

Top-Fed DWC (Bubbleponics) Tutorial

How do I produce top-shelf buds every time?

Where can I get seeds?

 

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The post 5 Secrets to Controlling Heat Indoors appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> https://www.growweedeasy.com/whats-the-cost-of-electricity-to-grow-marijuana?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=whats-the-cost-of-electricity-to-grow-marijuana Thu, 18 Feb 2016 03:13:09 +0000 https://www.growweedeasy.com/newsletter_issue/whats-the-cost-of-electricity-to-grow-marijuana/ by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

What Will My Electricity Bill Look Like?

• Estimated Cost Per Month (for grow lights, fans, pumps, AC, etc.)
• How to Figure Out Cost Per Grow (and cost of each ounce you harvest)

Electrical Safety Tips

The post What’s the Cost of Electricity to Grow Marijuana? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

]]> by Nebula Haze

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Table of Contents

What Should I Expect On My Electricity Bill?

• Figuring Out the Cost of Electricity
  • Electricity Cost Calculator (try it out!)
• Estimated Cost Per Month for Common Grow Room Items (lights, fans, pumps, AC, etc.)
• How to Figure Out Cost Per Grow (and cost of each ounce you harvest)

Electrical Safety Tips

Tips to Save Electricity Without Sacrificing Yields

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What Should I Expect On My Electricity Bill?

How much electricity does it take to grow cannabis indoors from seed to harvest, and how much will you be paying for electricity each month?

When growing marijuana indoors, knowing the cost of electricity is essential. However, it can be confusing trying to predict how much it’s going to end up costing you.

Luckily, it’s relatively straightforward to figure your costs in electricity once you have the right information. Let’s go!

 

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Quick Examples of Common Growing Setups

We calculated these electricity prices at the US average electricity cost of $0.12/kWh. Depending on where you live, it can be higher or lower. I’ve heard from growers whose electricity costs half as much, but also some who’s electricity costs twice that or more.

2’x2′ Grow Tent – Small

• Ultra short edition – 3′ tall
  • 65W – HLG 65 LED Grow Light – Electricity Cost: $9/month
  • 1-3 oz per harvest
  • $300 to get started
• Room to grow – 4′ tall
  • 100W – SF-1000 LED Grow Light – Electricity Cost: $11/month
  • 2-4 oz per harvest
  • $430 to get started

Example of a 2’x2′ grow tent

2’x4′ Grow Tent – Medium

• Standard Power – 5′ tall
  • 200W – SF-2000 LED grow light – Electricity Cost: $22/month
  • 5-11 oz per harvest
  • $555 to get started
• Max Power – 6′ tall
  • 300W – Mars Hydro TSL2000 LED – Electricity Cost: $31/month
  • 7-13 oz per harvest
  • $575 to get started
• Over Power – 6′ tall
  • 300-400W range (dimmable) – for growers who go crazy with power
  • Up to 16 oz per harvest
  • $495 to get started with a 400W HPS – Electricity Cost: $46/month
  • $745 to get started with 315 LEC – Electricity Cost: $33/month
  • $890 to get started with HLG 350R (Massively overpowered LED) – Electricity Cost: $40/month

Here’s my current grow inside one of these right now. I think this is the perfect size for most home growers because it can yield many ounces up to a pound per harvest depending on the grow light you use.

Example of cannabis plants I grew under a 300W LED grow light

3’x3′ Grow Tent (Square shape is better in some spaces) – Medium

• Max Power – 6′ tall
  • 300W – Mars Hydro FC-E3000 – Electricity Cost: $31/month
  • 7-13 oz per harvest
  • $475 to get started with FC-E3000
• Max Power (cold grow room) – 6′ tall
  • 315 LEC or 400W HPS (dimmable)
  • 7-16 oz per harvest
  • $745 to get started with 315 LEC – Electricity Cost: $33/month
  • $495 to get started with a 400W HPS – Electricity Cost: $46/month

Example of a single hydro plant growing in a 3’x3′ grow tent with a 400W HPS. You could fit more plants if you use pots instead of hydro.

4’x4′ Grow Tent – Large

• 1+ lb LED Producer – 6.5′ tall
  • HLG Blackbird 600W LED grow light – Electricity Cost: $61/month
  • 11-22 oz per harvest
  • $995 to get started
• 1+ lb HPS Producer 6.5′ tall
  • 600W HPS (dimmable) – Electricity Cost: $61/month
  • 10-21 oz per harvest
  • $495 to get started

Example of a 4’x4′ grow tent (easily yield a pound)

See more cannabis grow setup examples!

 

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Figuring Out the Cost of Electricity

This guide will teach you how to determine how much electricity you’ll be using each month for your garden. Once you know how much power you’re using, you can easily figure out the cost. I’ll also share a few estimates for the electricity cost of grow lights, fans, ACs, and more, so you’ll have a ballpark figure even if you’re not sure exactly how much you pay for electricity.

You need this information:

• Cost of electricity where you live – this should be on your electricity bill and is usually measured in kWh
• Wattage of light/fan/pump – If you’re not sure, the wattage information is typically on the box. For example, it might say 35W, 150W, or 600W.
• Number of hours the appliance will be running – For example if it’s on 18 hours a day and you want to know how much it will cost each month, then you’d calculate 18 hours multiplied by about 30 days or approximately 540 hours/month.

Here’s the formula which can be used not only to figure out the cost of electricity for the marijuana grow but also the cost per month:

Cost of Electricity x Number of Hours x (Watts / 1000) = Total Cost

Note: You need to divide the watts (W) by 1000 to plug it into the cost formula; this is to convert your number to kW so it plays nice with the kWh measurement you get from the electricity company. I’ll explain below with a few examples.

 

Real-Life Example with 250W Grow Light
($161 in electricity for the light during the grow)

Let’s look at a previous grow of mine. View the complete grow journal if you want to check it out!

• Cost Electricity – $0.37/kWh (this is what we get charged for electricity, but it’s more than twice the average cost nationwide so you’d probably pay far less than this!)
• Number Hours: 1,746 light hours (total hours with 250W HPS turned on)
  Veg: 41 days of 18/6 = 738 hours
  Flower: 84 days of 12/12 = 1,008 hours
• Wattage/1000: I used a 250W HPS light. So, if I divide that by 1000 I get 0.250 kW for the formula.

 

Cost Electricity x Number of Hours x (Watts / 1000) = Total Cost

$0.37 kWh x 1,746 hours x 0.250 kW = $161

 

However, one thing that’s very important to remember when doing any estimations is that although your grow light may account for a lot of your electricity bill, fans and pumps and other things in your grow room also take electricity. It can really start to add up if you don’t pay attention, giving you a much higher-than-expected electricity bill!

Remember to Calculate Energy Cost for Everything That Uses Electricity, Not Just Your Grow Light!

Continuing the above example, in that same grow I also used an exhaust fan, two circulating fans, and for my hydroponic tub I also used a water pump and an air pump. Although they seem like pretty small items, they can start to add up over the length of the grow.

Cost of Electricity for Other Items
(Additional $117 Over the Grow)

• Water pump – $6.12
• Air pump – $3.33
• Exhaust fan – $41.07
• 2 Oscillating fans – $66.60

You can view the full breakdown here. But you can see that these other items cost 3/4 as much electricity as the grow light at $161!

 

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Electricity Cost Calculator

If you want to skip doing all that math, you can plug your information into the calculator below and it will tell you how much money you can expect to spend on electricity. Make sure to look up your local electricity prices as they vary significantly between cities, states, and countries

 

 

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Estimated Cost Per Month for Common Grow Room Items

 

Here are more examples to give you an idea of possible cost projections.

 

Compare Various Fans @ $0.12/kWh

Amounts are for if the fans are kept on for 24 hours a day for 30 days (720 hours):

• 6″ Clip-on fan – 13W – $1/month
• 10″ tabletop fan – 35W – $3/month
• 4-Inch Exhaust Fan – 60W – $5/month
• 6-Inch Exhaust Fan – 70W – $6/month

 

Hydroponic Pumps and Accessories @ $0.12/kWh

Amounts are for if the pumps are kept on for 24 hours a day for 30 days (720 hours):

• Air pump – 3W – $0.25/month
• Water pump – 27W – $3/month
• 1/13HP Water Chiller – (Capable of lowering an average 20°F in a 26-Gallon tank) – 192W – $17/month

 

Air Conditioner Examples @ $0.12/kWh

​Amounts are for if the ACs are kept on continuously for 12 hours a day for 30 days (360 hours) – hopefully, you don’t have to keep your AC on this often or this long!

• 8000 BTU Window Air Conditioner – 670W – $29/month
• 10,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner – 890W – $39/month
• 10,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner – 1150W – $50/month <– Portable ACs aren’t as efficient as window ACs, but may be the only choice if you can’t put an AC in the window where you live.
• 15,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner – 1270W – $55/month

Figuring Out Cost (Per Grow)

When it comes to figuring out an estimated per-grow cost I recommend planning on it taking 5 months to get to harvest time (even though the average grow is usually about 3-4 months). Although you will hopefully get to harvest sooner, it’s better to estimate for too much money and have it cost less than the other way around!

Five months gives you plenty of time to mess up in the vegetative stage, use a long-flowering strain and still be ready for harvest. After you get some experience you’ll have a much better idea of how long it usually takes to get to harvest using your personal style and preferred strains. One other thing to remember is you’ll use less energy in the flowering stage because your lights will only be on 12 hours a day. You can figure that time out separately if you want, but I’m just going to pretend the lights are on 18/6 to make things simpler.

So now that you’ve begun to figure out your per-month prices, you can multiply them by 5 to get an estimate of how much a whole grow will cost you for each item!

Example Setup ($0.12/kWh)
This is the average cost of electricity in the USA. Remember to look up your local electricity cost because it could be significantly higher or lower.

• 400W LED Grow Light – $26/month
• 2 x 6″ Clip-on fans – 13W – $1/month x 2 = $2/month
• 10″ tabletop fan – 35W – $3/month
• 6-Inch Exhaust Fan – 70W – $6/month

Monthly Electricity Cost: $37
Electricity Cost for 5 Months: $185

That’s a total of $37/month in electricity, so if you multiply that by 5 months you get $185 cost of electricity for the whole grow.

Once you’ve had a grow or two under your belt, it’s a good idea to start looking at cost and reward to make sure you’re producing what you need for the price you want.

Let’s say you spend $185 on electricity in the grow, but produce 5 ounces of bud, that means you’re paying $37/ounce for electricity (plus the cost of setup and supplies). If that’s a reasonable price for you then you can celebrate a good harvest, but if you’re not getting the right prices in your grow, it’s a good idea to evaluate and figure out what you need to change to get the results you want!

How do I determine my yields?
(What’s my limiting factor and how do I fix it?)

For example, in this previous grow I spent about $280 in electricity throughout the grow (if you add everything together). I harvested a little over 6 ounces which, means I spent a little under $50/ounce in electricity. Considering it costs around $350 for a high-quality ounce in my area, that’s some pretty significant savings! And we have some of the most expensive electricity in the nation.

Another thing to consider when trying to estimate costs is how long a specific cannabis plant needs in the flowering stage before it’s ready to harvest. Some plants need up to 3 months in the flowering stage, so when determining cost it’s a good idea to factor in that extra time. Sometimes it’s worth it to pay more for better buds, but you should know that’s what you’re getting into!

Now that you’ve got a handle on figuring out your costs, let’s take a brief moment to talk a little bit about electrical safety.

 

Electrical Safety Tips

• If for some reason your electrical equipment is in contact with water, don’t touch it! You could get zapped!
• Keep your grow area dry and quickly clean up any spills.
• Keep everything as neat as possible. Try to put away anything that you don’t actually need in the grow room.
• Keep all electronics off the floor and make sure to untangle any wires, and it’s a great idea to tie them in place. A good rule of thumb is “electricity above the waist, water below the waist.”
• Use a surge protector. Many surge protectors are built with holes in the back so they can be mounted directly to a wall. Note: a surge protector offers protection for devices plugged into it; it doesn’t protect humans (although one with GFCI does)!

Smoke Detector

• Always have a smoke detector in your grow room. They’re way too cheap to pass up!

GFCI

• Get a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter(GFCI) – Many indoor grows involve having water somewhere near electrical outlets and a GFCI will protect you. A GFCI power strip stops power from flowing to the plug in the event of current-leakage (current-leakage equates to severe danger…electrocution!). If you don’t want to use a power strip, you can get outlets with GFCIs built-in (for those who have experience in changing outlets).

 

• Check your circuit breaker to make sure it can handle the amount of electricity you plan to use.

If you’re getting set up with a new grow room, or just getting started growing in a space for the first time, there are a few things you need to do before you ever plug anything in! In addition to standard electrical safety precautions inside the grow room, you want to make sure your grow space can support the amount of power you need.

Once you know which plugs you’re going to use for your grow, you need to calculate how much energy your grow lights and fans will need (as explained in today’s article). Armed with that knowledge, you can make sure your outlets can support that much energy usage.

All electrical outlets in your house are on a circuit, and each electrical outlet in your grow room belongs to a circuit. Often the circuit breaker box has labels for which outlets in the house are on each circuit, but sometimes you need to figure it out yourself.

Once you know which circuits your plugs are on, the next step is to open your circuit breaker box and see what number is listed next to the circuit(s) you plan to use.

Let’s say you’re using 120V outlets like most standard American outlets. If you have 15 Amp circuit breakers, that means that circuit can handle 1800W worth of appliances (15A x 120V = 1800W). If you have 20 Amp circuit breakers, it means that the circuit can handle 2400 watts (20A x 120V = 2400W). For 30 Amps it’s 3600W.

If your appliances on a circuit combined add up to more than those total watt numbers, you’re going to trip the circuit breaker at some point and everything on that circuit will shut off as a safety precaution.

Important: With all this in mind, it’s crucial to note that the limit of how much load a circuit can take is 20% lower for “continuous loads”. A “continuous load” is something that needs power for 3+ hours, so pretty much ALL of the power you will be using is a continuous load. That means you’ll want to split your power usage between circuits (not just outlets) when needed and stay below the following wattages:

• 1444W on 15A circuit breakers
• 1920W on 20A circuit breakers
• 2880W on 30A circuit breakers

I have examples of different wattages listed in the main article, but consider that a 1000W light + 10,000 BTU air conditioner is already enough to go well beyond the 1444W safety limit if you have a 15A circuit breaker and even surpasses the 1800W maximum load limit!

Because of this, we once had to power an AC with an extension cord that went to another room. That made it so it wasn’t using the same circuit as the lights and fans! Believe it not or, this is safer than putting extra load on an already overburdened circuit.

• Use your common sense; if something doesn’t seem right, or if you have any second thoughts about safety, you should listen to your conscience. It’s better to be safe than sorry!

 

Tips for Saving Electricity

It’s impossible to do all of these things at the same time, and sometimes you’ll have to choose between strategies, but this should help give you ideas on ways to cut electricity use during your grow!
Plant

• Keep your plant growing fast and healthy to potentially shave weeks off your grow. Every day you are powering your grow room adds to the amount of electricity you’re going to use during the grow.
• Choose a strain with a shorter flowering stage – some strains need as little as 8 weeks of the flowering stage before they’re ready to harvest. Although there’s nothing wrong with paying a little more to grow a longer-flowering strain! Some of the best strains need a little longer and it can be worth it to pay a little more.
• Choose an auto-flowering strain – these strains will get you to harvest in about 3 months, sooner than any other strain.
• Pick up a “Kill-A-Watt” Electricity Usage Monitor – you can use this cheap device to accurately measure the amount of electricity used by a device. Test your other non-growing devices, too!

Growing

• Have your lights on during the cheapest time for electricity – Many electricity companies have certain times of the day that are cheaper than others when it comes to electricity, so if you have your lights on during those cheaper hours you will save!
• Consider putting plant on 18/6 over 24/0 light schedule in the vegetative stage – that extra 6 hours a day without your light on can make a big difference on your electricity bill each month, and your plant will still grow healthy and fast with 18 hours of light!
• Choose a more efficient grow light – growers using fluorescent lighting might consider switching to a more efficient light. For example, if you’re using CFLs, you’ll get almost twice as much yields per watt by switching to an equal wattage HPS. So if you had 150W worth of CFLs, you could about double your yields by switching to a 150W HPS (without changing anything else). Learn more about upgrading your grow lights for better yields/watt.
• Get the smallest grow light you need to produce your result –  If you’re already growing more bud than you need, you might consider moving down in grow light size. If you’re using HPS grow lights, consider that a 600W HPS is more efficient than a 1000W HPS (600W HPS is actually the most efficient in lumens/watt of all HID grow lights), so if you could get enough bud from the 600W HPS you’d be getting more light per watt, and therefore more yield/watt. Why aren’t my yields bigger with the light I have now?
• Lower the power of your light initially, (or start with fluorescents) until plants get big enough to need more light. Some grow lights allow you to reduce their power output to 80% or 50%. If you have a seedling that’s just a few inches tall, it doesn’t need a big light and you can reduce your power without slowing growth down at all, but you’ll be using far less electricity. Same thing with fluorescents; even if they’re not the most efficient lights for producing buds, they are very low power and work perfectly for growing seedlings.
• Keep lights the right distance away – Keeping lights too far away from your plant will prevent them from getting all the light they can for the wattage used.
• Fill space under light using plant training so you’re using as much light as possible to increase yields. You want your entire grow space under the light filled with a flat canopy of buds for the best results indoors under grow lights.
• Consider training techniques with less down time. For example, more advanced training techniques such as manifolding can add 2-3 weeks onto your grow, while something more simple may take a little more physical work on your part in the long run to manage your colas, but it won’t add much if any time to your grow so you’ll end up saving on electricity.

Using a less powerful grow light while your plants are young will save electricity!

Manage Temperature / Air

• Smart fan placement – place your fans where they will be most effective so you don’t need as many of them running at the same time
• Straight-line exhaust – Keep your exhaust as straight and short as possible. Bends in the ducting, and long distances for the air to travel will make your exhaust system much less effective. If at all possible try to aim for an efficient exhaust system over an air conditioner! AC’s often use as much as, if not more electricity than your grow lights. Although you can’t keep your tent cooler than the air in your room, there’s a lot you can do to help even the temperatures out before you have to invest in an AC! Even with an AC, it’s a good idea to minimize how often you turn it on.
• Use time of day and fan speed to help manage temperature. For example, if it’s hot during the day you might consider putting your lights on at night when it’s cooler so you don’t need to turn on the AC.
• Grow at temperate parts of the year if possible so you don’t need an AC and can keep your lights on during the parts of the day when it’s cheapest instead of when it’s warmest.
• No fans until they’re needed – Chances are you don’t need any fans in the beginning of your plant’s life. As long as it’s not very muggy, seedlings and young clones should be just fine without a breeze until they get a little older and actually start getting bushy.
• Learn more about how to control temperature in the grow room!

For your exhaust system, try as best you can to keep ducting in as straight (and short) a line as possible – this makes it much more efficient at removing heat!

 

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I hope that helps get you started with figuring out the cost of electricity and setting up your grow room so you spend as little as possible while producing the results you want! Let us know if we missed anything!

 

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Jump to….

7 Rules to Stealthy Growing

Diagnose Your Sick Plant

How to Train Your Plants for Bigger Yields

Tips for Growing Top-Shelf Buds

 

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