Hey cannabis growers! We all know how annoying nutrient problems can be. And obviously, the best thing to do for your cannabis plant to prevent growing problems is give them the conditions they need to thrive. But did you know some strains are naturally more resilient than others? Certain genetics are less likely to experience problems. Yes, some special strains can experience sub-optimal conditions and still thrive.

Some cannabis strains make amazing buds even if you make some mistakes.

But which ones? These strains typically share some features…

• Fast-Flowering Strains – Perhaps it’s because they just don’t get enough time to get sick, but fast-flowering plants are often ready to harvest before you start running into significant problems even in sub-optimal conditions.
• Buds Grow as Nuggets, Not “Colas” – “Cola” is Spanish for tail, some growers use the word cola do describe a long fat bud. Sometimes these types of buds are called “baseball bats” (or in less polite company, “donkey d**ks”). These strains are high-yielding, but also prone to bud rot because they focus energy on producing long, fat colas. And for the purposes of today’s subject, tend to take out literally everything they can from the plant to their own detriment. These strains happily kill themselves to make buds. Which is kind of cool in its own way, but if you’re just looking to get a solid harvest with high bud quality, you’ll find the strains that tend to grow buds as small nuggets tend to thrive and stay healthy while their cola-wielding friends are sucking out every last nutrient as the plant slowly dies around the buds.
• Stable, Established Strains – Strains that are well-bred to be predictable tend to be more resistant to problems than raw crosses or experimental strains. That’s because breeders often refine their best strains for years to ensure that every batch of seeds grows exactly the same – fast and healthy!
• Legendary Strains – Some strains become legendary for a reason. Often, it’s because they just have something special to offer. Strains like Blue Dream, Girl Scout Cookies, Bruce Banner, and others were developed over years by home growers and commercial growers together. They’ve stuck around because they are all around great strains, and that’s also why you see they are some prominent in the history of so many new strains. Although not all versions of these legendary strains are great, I’ve found when you get them from a good breeder, they’re more likely to perform above-average than when you’re growing a strain you’ve never heard the name of. I love a strain name like “Candy Pegasus” as much as the next person, but you need to be more wary of brand new strains.
• Direct-to-Grower Breeders – Strains from breeders that sell directly to customers are often a great choice. I think it’s because they’re also the ones answering questions when growers run into plant problems. The further removed the breeder is from the grower, the less they may be thinking about how plants grow, since breeders are usually growing in ideal conditions. These growers breed only for what the buds are like, and may not “stress test” their plants, unlike breeders who also consider growth patterns. Direct-to-growers breeders pay extra attention to ensure their strains tends to germinate quickly, efficiently use nutrients, grow fast, and never herm. For example, I have found the homegrown strains from Seed Supreme, Seedsman, and MSNL tend to be easy to germinate, fast-growing, and overall resistant to problems.

Looking for some specific recommendations? Let’s explore some hardy cannabis strains that can handle a challenge!

Blue Dream by DNA Genetics

Why It’s Resilient

• Fast-Flowering – Ready to harvest with a 8-10 week flowering stage.
• Stable, Established Strain – This version has been stabilized from the original clone-only strain over several years.
• Legendary Strain – Blue Dream is the gift that keeps on giving. Every year there’s a new, even better Blue Dream. It has that special something that can only be accomplished by growers all over the world working together to develop a strain for years.
• Direct-to-grower – Get is straight from DNA Genetics off their website.

Ideal For: Growers looking for a balanced high (strong yet extremely relaxing) with a forgiving growth cycle.

Get Blue Dream – Buds get tinges of purple with strong enough light

Growing Blue Dream Tips 

Ready to harvest with a 8-10 week flowering stage, this version is exceedingly easy to grow. Plants are just not picky. Responds well to training and can handle relatively higher levels of nutrients. Does well outdoors but really thrives indoors.

Girl Scout Cookies (GSC) by Seed Supreme

Why It’s Resilient

• Fast-Flowering – Ready to harvest with a 8-10 week flowering stage. These buds won’t “go long” on you.
• Stable, Established Strain – This version has been stabilized from the original clone-only strain over several years.
• Legendary Strain – Anyone who’s been watching cannabis cups or visits dispensaries has probably seen this strain many times. There are sooooo many “Cookies” strains that have been developed from this strain as well. It’s legendary for a reason, and this refined version may have even better bud effects and sweet “cookies” smell than the original clone.

Ideal For: Those seeking a strong, euphoric effect, sweet-smelling buds, and a resilient growth profile.

Get Girl Scout Cookies – Famous for a reason!

Growing Girl Scout Cookies Tips

Easy to grow, easy to train. Can handle warmer temperatures than some other strains, which makes it a good choice if you’re struggling to control the heat in your grow room, or live in a very warm climate. Great yields even if you make some mistakes.

Honorable Mention: Platinum Cookies is a Cookies cross that has that special something. Check out my full Platinum Cookies strain review.

Purple Ghost Candy by Seedsman

Why It’s Resilient

• Buds Grow as Nuggets – Chunky, dense nugs galore. Often grows with purple tinges all over the buds as long as you provide high levels of light.
• Stable, Established Strain – This strain was a banger from the beginning, but has been refined over the last few years into a gold standard stabilized strain.
• Direct-to-grower – Seedsman runs a full seed bank full of strains from many different breeders, but I’ve consistently found their in-house strains are just all around easy to grow with great germination rates and lower chances of problems.

Ideal For: Growers looking for a potent high and a sturdy plant with big yields. Best for growers with a bigger grow space. This plant needs room to stretch (either tall or wide). Performs great as a single plant as it tends to completely fill up the grow space available.

Get Purple Ghost Candy – One of my favorite strains lately!

Growing Purple Ghost Candy Tips

I’ve found this strains tends to grow big plants with huge yields, yet grows buds as nuggets so you don’t run into the same problems as other high-yield strains. Grows lots of side branches and responds very well to pruning, bending branches, and defoliation.

One of the reasons I chose this strain over the others I’ve grown from Seedsman is the outstanding bud quality. Buds tend to grow dense, beautiful, and POTENT. Make sure to wait until buds are totally mature before harvesting for the best bud quality. Not for the faint of heart or casual smokers!

Dirty Unicorn by Dirty Bird Genetics

Why It’s Resilient

• Fast-Flowering – Typically ready to harvest in about 9 weeks from 12/12.
• Buds Grow as Nuggets – Buds are dense and sparkly, and produce tight nugs.
• Stable, Established Strain – Dirty Bird Genetics took a famous Thug Pug strain (Unicorn Poop – a non-feminized strain that is always sold out) and worked with it for over two years to make an amazingly consistent strain that gives you the wonders of the original genetics but in feminized, stabilized form.
• Direct-to-grower – Get it straight from the breeders.

Ideal For: Those who want a clear-headed, energetic high with top-of-the-line bud appearance and smell.

Get Dirty Unicorn – Unusual name, memorable buds!

Growing Unicorn Poop Tips

Plants tend to grow on the taller side, with extra space between nodes, but that actually makes it really easy to train this plant to grow into whatever shape you want. Vigorous, fast growth. The seeds germinate fast and seedlings tend to start strong.

Bruce Banner by Seed Supreme

Why It’s Resilient

• Buds Grow as Nuggets – Dense, tight nugs galore!
• Stable, Established Strain – Developed over years
• Direct-to-grower – Get it straight from the source.

Ideal For: New growers, low-maintenance gardens, and those prone to minor nutrient mishaps. Offers a powerful, uplifting high.

Get Bruce Banner – Named after the Incredible Hulk for the sheet potency of buds

Growing Bruce Banner Tips

A robust strain that can take extra nutrients and warmer temperatures. Great yields, easy to grow, and overall just a pleasure of a plant.

Choosing the right cannabis strain can make a big difference. Hardy strains are known for their ability to thrive in less-than-perfect conditions, which makes them perfect if you’re looking for a consistent harvest with minimal issues. It can help when you opt for fast-flowering strains, those that grow buds as nuggets, stable and established genetics, legendary strains, and those from direct-to-grower breeders. Remember, the best cannabis strains are the ones that give you what you want, how you want it!

Happy growing!
Nebula Haze

The post Which Strains Get Fewer Nutrient Problems or Deficiencies? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

GrowWeedEasy.com teaches you how easy it is to grow weed. Growing weed can be easy when you know what to do, but most “how to grow marijuana” tutorials make it seem like you need a degree in horticulture.

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Even first-time growers produce great harvests when they follow our tutorials.

Who Made GrowWeedEasy.com?

Grow Weed Easy.com was started in 2010 by home growers Nebula Haze and Sirius Fourside. Together, they built a free online “encyclopedia of cannabis home grow” with 650+ expert home cannabis cultivation tutorials about every aspect of growing weed.

GrowWeedEasy.com is now the biggest and most comprehensive source of free home grow information in the world.  We show you how easy it is to grow your own marijuana at home.

The GrowWeedEasy.com Ethos

Our Goal: You grow as much top-shelf weed as possible, with as little time and effort needed to grow your desired yields and cannabis bud quality.

Whether you’re a total beginner who wants to start growing cannabis indoors for the first time, or an experienced grower who wants to upgrade your skills to Pro level, this website was built for you.

Looking for a complete harvest system?

If you want dense, beautiful, great-smelling weed, our new digital book gives you our complete harvest system. Follow the straightforward instructions and massively upgrade your results every harvest. A few small changes can make all the difference.

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🌟 $200 Off Special Offer: Enroll today in Home Grow Masterclass!

If you’re reading this right now, you want to grow great cannabis at home.

Cannabis plants isn’t a regular house plant, but learning how to grow isn’t as complicated growers make it seem. We’ve spent the last 16 years breaking down the home grow process so anyone can learn it.

The key to consistent harvest results is simple: follow a proven system developed for home growers.

You could waste an entire grow learning through trial and error…

Or take the shortcut and harvest a sea of fat, dense, beautiful buds that smell great. At home!

Follow our 5-week course and get walked through each part step-by-step. Build by experienced home growers and honed with hundreds of students since 2019, we ensure you achieve great results on your very next harvest.

Learn How To Grow Top-Shelf Weed at Home!

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You may be asking yourself these common growing questions:

“How do I grow marijuana indoors?”

Read this guide on how to grow marijuana indoors. Or check out this article to learn what materials you need to get started growing your own marijuana!

Luckily, it’s really easy to get a cannabis seed to sprout!

“How much money will it cost to get started?”

If you’re considering growing weed, it costs as little as $300 to get started growing or a bit more for a semi-automatic, high-yielding bubbleponics grow system. See examples of yields to expect, electricity use & startup costs for different setups. Read this article to see even more growing styles with different price ranges.

“Where can I get marijuana seeds?”

Check out our How to Buy Marijuana Seeds Online Guide (with delivery to every state of the USA) to safely get your hands on good genetics. Starting with good seeds lets you choose the looks, smell, and effects of your buds!

Learn where it’s safe to buy cannabis seeds online (2026 update).

What do good cannabis seeds look like?

Learn about the best marijuana beginner strains and how to research and find the right strain.

Cannabis buds are generally green, but can also be pink or purple with certain strains.

“How much will electricity cost each month?”

If you’re just growing a few marijuana plants for personal use, it will cost you $20-$100+/month for electricity, depending on what grow lights (electricity) and nutrients you use. On average, I’d say a hobby-size grower might pay about $50/month to grow, but it depends greatly on your setup and local electricity costs! How much will electricity cost each month?

“How can I increase my marijuana yields?”

We have quite a few techniques to choose from or combine! See some of our most popular pages:

• Super Cropping – A simple technique to bigger yields
• Simplest Guide to Growing Short & Bushy Marijuana Plants
• LST (Low Stress Training) – Training your plants can easily double your harvest!
• Or check out our page on the controversial defoliation technique

Even More Ways to Increase Cannabis Yields

1. Increase Light Intensity (plus choose right light for desired yields & possibly add CO2)
2. Manipulate How Plants Grow (a free way to yield more bud indoors)
3. Provide Right Nutrients (low Nitrogen in the flowering stage, and remember sometimes less is more!)
4. Control Growing Environment (let the growing environment work for you)
5. Harvest Plants Properly (most importantly, don’t harvest early!)
6. Lastly, it’s important to remember that the strain has a major effect on yields!

Two small cannabis plants can yield several ounces of premium weed!

“How can I grow weed privately?”

Read guide on growing weed indoors without anyone knowing. But remember the most important factors to stealth growing: “No tell, no smell, no sell.” Never tell anyone, not even your best friend, that you’re growing. Be on top of preventing smells, and never ever sell cannabis. Breaking one of those 3 principles is how 99% of growers get found out!

“What if my plants get sick?”

The most common issue a grower runs into is a pH imbalance. Barring that, your marijuana plants likely either have a nutrient deficiency, heat or light stress, or are being attacked by some sort of marijuana mold, pest or bug. Whether you call it weed, cannabis, sinsemilla, skunk, pot, marijuana, or something else, the plant known as Cannabis Sativa is a hardy weed in the wild and can actually be easy to grow indoors at home when you know what to do.

Growing Medical Marijuana

“Medical marijuana” has become a household name. The body of evidence for medical marijuana in the treatment of cancer and other illnesses is growing every day. And for those who need medical marijuana, growing weed indoors is the perfect way to ensure a safe, regular supply of buds, for cheap.

In fact, when you grow weed indoors for personal use, you often end up with way too much. If you catch the growing bug like I did, and if you start enjoying the process of tending your cannabis garden just for the sake of gardening, you’re going to have to find a way to press, cook, freeze, and concentrate all your extra buds. 🙂

As you probably know, both medical marijuana and recreational cannabis have been decriminalized or legalized in many places around the world and weed is becoming legal in more places every day! Yet there still aren’t many simple indoor “how to grow weed” guides for beginners (even for those who legally grow, such as medical marijuana users and those who live in places where marijuana is legalized for personal use).

If so, I know how you feel. It can be hard to weed out all the bad information on the internet and find well-researched, free tips or instructions on how to grow your own cannabis. That’s why Grow Weed Easy.com aims to be a simple online resource that explains from start to finish what you need to do when growing cannabis so you can learn how to grow cannabis with great yields and potent buds, even if you only have a small grow space like a closet or even a computer case.

We’ve grown cannabis out of closets and have gotten ounces of buds and you can too. Grow Weed Easy.com covers many popular cannabis cultivation topics, including:

• A comparison between different cannabis grow lights including experience-based information about LED grow lights
• A page that teaches you the basics of how to grow weed
• Detailed how-to weed growing tutorials
• How to start growing weed tomorrow  (simplest cannabis growing guide!)
• Grow 4 oz with a 100W LED <– An Easy Way to Start Growing!
• Our famous grow guide that teaches you how to grow weed using bubbleponics (hydro).

Start Growing Weed Today!

Grow Weed Easy is run by a panel of experienced cannabis growers, including the founders Nebula Haze and Sirius Fourside, who originally teamed together to bring you GrowWeedEasy.com. Due to the demand for more marijuana growing information, we’ve also started an inbox magazine all about how to grow weed, with additional tutorials, tips, and tactics sent to you each week. Simply sign up to start getting free expert growing articles delivered to you! All the information available at GrowWeedEasy.com is completely free and we regularly update the site and make new additions.

Looking for a growing book?

If you are interested in doing a bit of reading or would like to know more about the science behind marijuana hydroponics or horticulture, I strongly recommend viewing our page of Marijuana Grow Book Reviews. Read reviews of marijuana grow books. We would love to hear about your experiences with growing cannabis. Whether you are a pro grower already or are just starting your first plant, we have learned so much from our readers both beginners and masters! If you have any suggestions, comments, concerns, or just want to ask some questions about your marijuana grow, please contact us!

Happy Growing!
Nebula Haze & Sirius Fourside

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The post Grow Weed Easy – Learn How to Grow Cannabis Tutorials appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Emergency Resources for Sick Seedlings!

If you’ve got unhappy cannabis seedlings, I’ve got the solutions. Sometimes the hardest part of growing cannabis is just germinating the seeds and caring for seedlings. If you’ve never gardened or planted a seed before, you may have to learn everything from scratch. And with expensive and hard-to-get marijuana seeds, there’s a lot of pressure to get things right the first time.

This tutorial will help you with some of the most common seedling problems, so you can quickly get the fix. Make it so that your first few weeks go without a hitch.

Note: At GrowWeedEasy.com, we have resources for almost every common growing problem, so check out our cannabis plant doctor or use the search bar on the side of the website if you have a specific problem.

My Seedling Problem is…

If your seedlings are sick and you’re still investigating the problem, move your grow light up and don’t attempt to train your plants or do anything new until they’re better! If you avoid stressing them out any further, they often recover much more quickly.

Germination Problems

• Soil or Coco: Fail-Proof Germination Guide
• Hydroponics or DWC: Fail-Proof Germination Guide
• Are My Seeds Good? (How to Know if Seeds Are Viable)
• Seedling Growing Upside Down with Root Up

Germination problems? We’ve got you covered!

Yellow Leaves

• Why do seedlings turn yellow? – There are many reasons you might see a yellowing leaf on young plants, but this tutorial breaks down the most common.

This yellow seedling was overwatered. Seedlings don’t like “wet feet”. Too much water is the most common reason you’ll see yellow leaves on seedlings.

Curling or Clawing Leaves

• Clawing or curling leaves – Like yellow leaves, there are actually a few different triggers for clawing or curling, including watering practices and nutrient levels.

In this case, the clawed leaves are also from too much water. Small seedlings in big pots need careful watering until they’re drinking more.

Bad soil will sabotage you! Thick muddy soil prevents seedling roots from getting enough oxygen

Seedling is Wilting or Droopy

If you notice your plant is droopy all the time (even in the mornings right after lights turn on, when plants are at their perkiest), it usually means there’s something going on at the roots. The seedling might be getting too much or too little water at a time, possibly watering too often or infrequently, or its roots could be sick/damaged. The other major cause of drooping and wilting is high or low temperatures, and occasionally really high or low humidity.

• Overwatering vs Underwatering: How do you know?
• Root problems (coco or soil)
• Root Rot (hydro)
• Heat Stress
• Temperature Tutorial
• Humidity Tutorial

This seedling was given too much water for many days. Notice the green algae growing on top of the soil.

Underwatered seedling – When there’s not enough water at the roots, leaves are dark green, possibly clawed or droopy, and growth is slow

In hydroponics, when you see a droopy seedling it usually means there’s something bad happening at the roots

Burnt Leaf Tips

• Usually caused by nutrient burn (too much nutrients)
• Sometimes caused by a deficiency such as a copper deficiency
• Also caused by incorrect pH or overwatering/underwatering

Seedling with a single burnt leaf due to slight underwatering. You can tell it’s not nutrient burn because it’s only affecting a single leaf (nutrient burn tends to affect leaves all over the plant).

Why Are Stems Purple or Red?

• Could just be the genetics
• Can be triggered by cool temperatures or too-bright light
• Sometimes it’s a sign of stress or a deficiency
• Learn whether your red or purple stems are normal

Purple stems are normal for some strains, though they also appear on plants that are cold, stressed or experiencing a nutrient deficiency. Sometimes bright light triggers purple stems, like a tan.

This seedling appears healthy. If you don’t see any other symptoms, you probably don’t need to worry about it. But keep a close eye. If a seedling with purple stems also grows slow or has markings on the leaves, it means something is wrong. Investigate!

Why is My Seedling So Tall?

• If your seedling keeps growing taller and taller without a lot of leaves, it usually means it needs more light.

Tall, “leggy” seedlings need more light. They’re doing their best to stretch towards the nearest light source! Quick aside: Avoid germinating multiple seedlings in the same pot. It can be difficult to separate them.

Why Are Leaves Curling?

• This is often caused by heat stress or overwatering
• Sometimes too much light or very dry air can trigger it, too

These wavy leaves are the result of too much heat, and possibly slight overwatering

Another example of heat damage plus overwatering (the same triggers can be expressed in multiple ways)

More heat damage

Bugs or Pests

• Learn how to avoid Fungus Gnats (most common bug for new growers)
• Other Common Cannabis Pests

Learn more about fungus gnats

Something Else?

• Diagnose Your Sick Plant!

Re-vegging (pictured below) and other plant problems can be hard to diagnose. Use our free plant doctor tool to check your symptoms.

Bonus Articles!

• Common Seedling Problems and Mistakes
• 7 Common New Grower Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
• How to Test Cannabis Seedlings for Sex and Future Potency

​What to Focus on During Your Seedling’s First Month

• Perfect Environment – humidity, temperature, airflow, CO2/fresh air, reflective walls, etc
• Enough Light – If your seedlings are growing tall it means that they want more light! Remember, in the flowering stage your yields will be directly related to how much light your buds are getting!
• Not Too Much of Light – Too much light can hurt your plants even in cool temperatures! Seedlings are more sensitive than adult plants, so be careful not to overload them with light too quickly! If you think your seedlings may be stressed from too high levels of light, move your grow light up a few inches and see if they improve.
• Watering properly (one of the hardest parts for a lot of new growers!) – How to Water Plants Perfectly Every Time. I promise it gets easier!
• Not Too Much Love – Seedlings need some breathing room! (i.e. avoid overwatering, touching/messing with plants too much, giving too high levels of nutrients or supplements, etc.). They want you to love them and watch out for them, but they also need to get work done 🙂
• Start Thinking About Plant Sex – For several weeks after germination, a plant’s sex is hidden and has little effect on how your plants grow. However, if you are not familiar with the difference between male and female plants (only female plants make buds), now is the perfect time to read up!

The post Cannabis Seedling Help Handbook appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

The following symptoms are for when your cannabis leaves are “clawing” or curling up or curling down. Sometimes known as “The Claw”. I’ll give a short explanation with pictures of each problem, plus links to the solutions! Fix this common (but hard to diagnose) marijuana problem today!

Nitrogen Toxicity

A Nitrogen toxicity is the result of the plant getting too much Nitrogen (usually from too high levels of nutrients overall, or by using a Vegetative nutrient in the flowering stage). It causes dark green leaves and curled tips (“the claw”).

One of the main symptoms of a Nitrogen toxicity is curled tips (“the claw”)

A plant with a Nitrogen toxicity tends to be dark green all over

​

Learn more about a cannabis Nitrogen Toxicity

Wind Burn

Caused by too much wind. You’ll notice that the leaves further from the fan don’t have symptoms.

Example of too much wind on your leaves

Learn more about cannabis wind burn

Bad Soil / Overwatering / Underwatering

You can help prevent over and under-watering your cannabis plants by always starting with good soil or coco coir.

Bad Soil

Bad soil is usually thick and muddy. Plants in poor soil will droop (often with unhappy curly leaves) no matter your watering practices.

Avoid thick soil that stays wet for a long time and doesn’t drain well

Overwatering

Overwatering makes leaves fat with water, and they tend to curl down and droop

Overwatering (especially when combined with heat) can also cause leaves to curl up

This plant was grown in muddy soil, and the curling, unhealthy leaves kept getting worse and worse over time!

​

Underwatering

Underwatering causes symptoms that often look like overwatering, but you’ll know it’s underwatering if the plants perk up each time after you water them.

Root Problems

Although often caused by overwatering, once the roots are sick you’ll see symptoms for a little while even after you start watering your plants properly.

Unhealthy roots can cause all sorts of problems including curling and clawing!

Unhealthy Roots in Soil/Coco

This plant’s roots were damaged from being overwatered and too hot for several days. As a result, the leaves took on a strange, blistery appearance.

This plant suffered from heat combined with overwatering for several days. This damaged the roots and gave it this odd leaf curling.

Learn more about root problem and symptoms

Root Rot

Root rot is something marijuana hydroponic growers can suffer from if pathogens attack the roots. It is often triggered by heat and/or lack of bubbles near the roots.

Root rot can cause curling leaves and brown patches as well as sometimes other nutrient deficiencies

Rootbound

If a plant stays in the same container for too long, the roots will eventually start wrapping around the edges of the pot. This is known as being “rootbound” and causes symptoms similar to other root problems.

A rootbound plant has been in the same container for too long. Roots wrap around the edges and “choke” the plant.

Rootbound plants often droop, appear yellow, get nutrient deficiencies, and stay small. Even if you’re caring for them perfectly!

If you see tons of white roots when transplanted, that means the plant was in that container too long

When this happens, the main solution is to transplant the plant into a bigger container. Another solution is to grow in fabric pots or air pots. These types of pots let air in from the sides, killing the circling roots (“air-pruning” them) and prevents the plant from getting rootbound for months.

To help a rootbound plant, transplant to a bigger container with fresh potting mix

Or start with air pots or fabric pots in order to prevent plants from getting rootbound at all

Heat Stress

If plants are experiencing a lot of heat, it can make leaves droop and/or curl. Some strains can handle a lot of heat, while other strains tend to droop when it gets warm.

Heat can cause leaves to curl up

Read more about heat and growing weed:

• Cannabis Heat Stress Guide
• Air Circulation and Exhaust Tutorial
• 5 Ways to Deal with Heat While Growing Cannabis
• 3 Proven Supplements that Help with Heat Stress

Light Burn

Plants can get light burn (sort of like a sunburn) even if the temperature is completely under control. The symptoms are usually concentrated close to the grow lights. Sometimes this can cause leaves to claw and curl downwards.

Light burn can cause the leaves closest to the light to turn yellow

Learn more about light burn

Bugs & Pests

Often a bug infestation caused general plant unhappiness, but these are some of the most likely to cause curling or clawing leaves.

Broad Mites

Usually, you can’t see broad mites because they live inside the plant. The main symptom of an infestation is strange leaf curling that is specific to this pest, as well as “wet” looking leaves.

Hemp Russet Mites

Hemp russet mites can also cause drooping and other strange symptoms, but the bugs are so small many growers don’t realize what they’re dealing with.

Hemp russet mites cause drooping and yellow mold-like growth on the tops of plants

A closeup of the hemp russet mites

Learn how to get rid of hemp russet mites!

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats look like tiny flies buzzing around your topsoil. Although a few fungus gnats won’t really hurt your plants, a big infestation can damage the roots, causing symptoms similar to other types of root problems.

Learn about other types of bugs and pests that can attack your cannabis plants!

Jump to…

7 Step Fix to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems

Pictures of Marijuana Plant Problems

What does pH have to do with nutrient deficiencies?

10-Step Quick Start Guide to Growing

The post Why are Leaves Curling or Clawing? (“The Claw”) appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Are some or all of your cannabis leaves turning yellow? Maybe your yellowing leaves also have other symptoms like spots, curling, wilting, brown patches, etc. Marijuana plants may get yellow leaves for several different reasons, which means it can be hard to figure out the true root of the problem!

Today I’ll break down the 10 most common reasons your weed leaves turn yellow, and I’ll show you how to make your plant green again.

10 Most Common Reasons for Yellow Leaves

1. High or Low Root pH
2. Poor Watering Practices
3. Nitrogen Deficiency
4. Light Burn / Light Stress
5. Heat Stress / Cold Shock
6. Magnesium Deficiency
7. Iron Deficiency
8. Not Enough Light (especially seedlings)
9. Bugs or Pests
10. Bud Rot

When Not to Worry (Pictures of Normal Yellow Leaves)

These yellow leaves with green stripes in the margins are caused by high pH at the roots.

10 Causes of Yellow Leaves (From Most to Least Common)

1.) PH is Too High or Low at the Roots

Whether you’re growing cannabis in soil, coco coir or in hydroponics, high or low pH at the roots is the most common reason to see yellowing and other nutrient deficiencies. Cannabis plants have a difficult time absorbing nutrients when the pH is in the wrong range, resulting in nutrient deficiencies even if the nutrients are actually present near the roots.

Symptoms

• Yellow or other oddly colored leaves
• Spots, stripes, or patches
• Burning around the edges of leaves
• In fact, almost any nutrient deficiency can be triggered by incorrect pH

What is the Correct PH?

Growers who don’t make sure their pH stays in the right range will often run into nutrient deficiencies, even if they’re starting with a pure source of water and good soil.

• Soil Optimum: 6-7 pH
• Coco / Hydro Optimum: 5.5-6.5 pH

How to Fix

• Use a kit or PH Pen to test the pH of the water before you give it to your plants, and adjust if necessary by adding an acid or base to your water
• Learn How to Fix Incorrect pH.

These symptoms look like nutrient deficiencies but are actually caused by incorrect pH.

Most water sources contain enough copper (which the plant needs in very small amounts) so copper deficiencies like this one are almost always caused by incorrect root pH.

Zinc deficiencies (pictured below) are the same way. They are almost always caused by incorrect pH.

Another common culprit of yellow leaves from incorrect pH is a potassium deficiency. Cannabis plants love lots of potassium, especially in the flowering stage, but nearly all cannabis-friendly nutrient systems contain plenty of potassium. If you’re adding nutrients to the water, this deficiency is almost always the symptom of a pH problem.

This is also a potassium deficiency, even though it looks a little like nutrient burn (too high levels of nutrients). The main clue is the yellow striping on the leaves, which tends to get worse over time until leaves are mostly yellow. Another clue is the brown tips go in further than typical nutrient burn.

Stripes on the leaves (click for close-up) indicates that this is not a Nitrogen deficiency, even though the symptoms are similar. In this case, the symptoms were caused by the pH being way too high, combined with a bit too much water at a time.

2.) Poor Watering Practices

It’s much more common to over-water than under-water cannabis plants, and the symptoms are very similar. In either case, the solution is to learn how to water your plants exactly the right amount at the right time!

Symptoms of Poor Watering Practices

• Droopiness (it’s normal for plants to droop a little before the lights go out, but you know the drooping is a problem if it’s already happening at the beginning of their “day”).
• Odd problems and symptoms from poor water practices including yellowing and sometimes other deficiencies.
• Droopy leaves – Droopiness is usually caused by either…
  • Overwatering – leaves seem “fat” and swollen with water. Often you’ll have a feeling you may be overwatering your plant, especially if it’s a small plant in a large container.
  • Underwatering – leaves often seem “papery” and thin because they don’t have any water inside them. Chronic underwatering leads to overall yellowing and deficiencies.

How Do Cannabis Growers Get It?

• Young plants are extra sensitive – Overwatering is most common with young plants since they still have small, weak root systems.
• Too much or too little water at a time – You can hurt plants by giving too much or too little water at a time, and you can also cause persistent droopiness by watering too often or too infrequently
• Bad soil with poor drainage can cause the symptoms of overwatering even if you’re watering the plants perfectly!
• Small plants in big containers are easily over-watered.
• Big plants in small containers are easily under-watered.
• Not checking on plants – Growers who spend long periods away from their plants and/or don’t pay attention to their watering needs are much more likely to run into problems with droopiness.

How to Water Your Plants Correctly

• Good grow medium – Start with good soil or coco coir.
• Right size container – Make sure plants are in the right size container for their size.
• Pay attention if you notice drooping.
  • If plants start drooping after you water them, you’re overwatering.
  • If drooping plants perk up after watering, you’re underwatering.
• Learn how to water your plants perfectly every time.

Overwatering

Chronic overwatering can sometimes cause unusual deficiencies even if the pH is spot on, like this plant grown in muddy soil. The biggest sign that these symptoms are caused by overwatering and not pH (or something else) is that the plant is always droopy.

Another example of a deficiency that’s actually caused by overwatering (notice how this seedling is also droopy)

Chronic Underwatering (Relatively Rare)

Most growers tend to overwater – not underwater – their plants. However, if you’re spending long periods away from your plants or the containers are drying up in less than a day or two, it may mean that your plant needs to be watered more often, or be given more water at a time. It’s also more common to under-water when plants start overgrowing their pots.

It can be difficult to diagnose chronic underwatering because problems may look like nutrient deficiencies. Your main clue is that plants perk up every time after you water.

Learn more about underwatering cannabis plants.

3.) Nitrogen Deficiency

Symptoms

• Pale leaves – Plants tend to be lime green or pale all over, even though the leaves appear healthy without stripes or spots
• Bottom leaves turn yellow – Yellow leaves tend to appear toward the bottom of the plant
• Yellow leaves fall on their own – With a nitrogen deficiency, yellow leaves feel soft and are easily pulled off (in fact they usually fall on their own). If a leaf feels very stiff or is hard to pull out, that means it is not a Nitrogen deficiency and actually something else.

How Do Growers Get It?

• Used up nutrients in soil – Affects plants that have “used up” the nutrients in the soil, which can happen after the plant has been in the same container for several weeks or months.
• Need to increase the amount of nutrients in the water – A nitrogen deficiency can happen in coco or hydro when the grower isn’t providing any extra nutrients (since there is no Nitrogen contained naturally in plain coco or water).

It is very unlikely you have a true Nitrogen deficiency if you’re providing your plants with the recommended amount of cannabis nutrients in the water.

How to Fix

• Give good nutrients – Easily remedied by giving plants a regular base plant nutrient from basically any cannabis-friendly nutrient system
• Transplant to new soil – In soil, growers can transplant their plants to a new container with fresh soil (if they don’t want to add extra nutrients to the water).
• Learn more about Nitrogen deficiencies.

A cannabis plant turns pale or lime green all over (left) when it needs more Nitrogen. A healthy plant appears medium green (right).

This plant is on the verge of a Nitrogen deficiency. This is indicated by its overall pale color, even though all the leaves look healthy without spots or stripes. Cannabis leaves should not be lime green or pale, or the plant tends to grow more slowly!

Here’s a close-up of a Nitrogen-deficient leaf near the bottom of the plant. Nitrogen-deficient leaves are soft and look/feel wilted.

If you have a Nitrogen deficiency, the yellow leaves will start falling off on their own.

Did You Know? Oddly enough, too much Nitrogen can also cause yellow leaves, though the rest of the leaves will be clawed and a deep dark green instead of pale.

Too Much Nitrogen (Nitrogen Toxicity)

4.) Light Burn

Symptoms

• Yellowing appears most on the parts of the plant closest to the light.
• Yellow leaves do not pull out easily, even if the whole leaf is dead
• Light burn often takes a few weeks to develop and is most common once the plant is past the 6th week of the flowering stage (when plants aren’t making many new leaves to replace old ones).

Cannabis light burn usually affects the top leaves closest to the grow light instead of affecting the plant evenly.

How Do Growers Get It?

• Light burn is when your leaves are working too hard for too long, causing them to die early.
• Even if the temperature is in a good range, your plant can still get light burn if the grow light is too close. It’s kind of like how skiers can get sunburned even in freezing temperatures because of all the sunlight reflecting off the snow.
• Light burn is most common with powerful lights like HPS/LED/LEC.
• It’s also common when switching to new bulbs (which are stronger than old bulbs) or when there is no glass between the bulb and your plants.
• Some plants are more sensitive than others, and you may have one plant suffering from light burn while the others are fine. That can make it harder to diagnose the problem since some of your plants are thriving in the same environment!

Light burn symptoms can be different from plant to plant, but they always seem to happen mostly to the parts of the plant that are closest to the light

How to Fix

• The best way to fix light burn is to move your grow lights further away, or bend over the affected plants so they’re further from the light.
• When in doubt, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to how far away to keep your light from your plants! This is especially important for growers who utilize LEDs.
• Learn more about cannabis light burn
• How far away should I keep my grow lights?

5.) Temperature Problems (Heat Stress / Cold Shock) 

• Yellow or burnt leaves near the light
• General yellowing of upper leaves
• Leaves start “turning up” at the edges, or forming “tacos”

How Do Growers Get It?

• If you put your hand where your plants are and hold it there for 30 seconds, is it too hot to be comfortable? If it’s too hot for you it’s likely too hot for your plants.
• Although relatively rare indoors since most growers struggle with heat instead of cold, a temperature under 50°F (10°C) can also cause pale or yellow leaves. Some plants will even die if it hits freezing temperatures! Placing grow containers directly on concrete in a basement can kill them with cold overnight!

How to Fix

• You should be able to pass the “hand test” (hold your hand where your plants are and make sure it’s not too hot). If it’s too hot for you, move the light up and further away from the top of your plants.
• You should correct the temperature if it’s under 60°F at night or above 85°F during the day.
• Make sure there is good air circulation in the grow space, to prevent hot spots.
• Your plants will be more resistant to cold if you keep their roots warm, so make sure to keep your containers off the cold floor (or if outdoors, you might consider covering your plant roots at night!)!
• How do I control temperature?
• More About Heat Stress

This poor plant was decimated by a heat wave – it went through several days of 100°F+ temperatures! Luckily the buds were still great 🙂

Too much heat can cause the edges of leaves to curl upwards and make “tacos”.

Sometimes extended periods of high temperatures cause spots and other odd symptoms in addition to yellowing.

Cold Shock

This plant was exposed to temperatures under 40°F (5°C) at night, causing all the newest growth to turn so pale yellow it almost looked white!

6.) Magnesium Deficiency

Symptoms

• Yellowing in between the veins on leaves, often located lower down on the plant.

How Do Growers Get It?

• A magnesium deficiency is almost always caused by incorrect pH though if you’re using heavily purified or soft water (such as RO – reverse osmosis – water) you may need a Cal-Mag supplement to make sure your plant is getting enough magnesium.

How to Fix

• First, check the pH. It should be in the 6.0-7.0 range for soil growers and 5.5-6.5 for everyone else.
• If a Magnesium deficiency persists, consider getting a CaliMagic supplement that is made for plants (you should always add Magnesium and Calcium at the same time because these two nutrients work together in the cannabis plant).
• Learn more about Magnesium deficiencies

With a magnesium deficiency, the yellowing happens between the veins of the leaves, while the veins stay green.

Sometimes Triggered by Old Age / Natural Senescence / Light Deprivation

• It’s actually normal if you only see these symptoms on a few leaves at the bottom of the plant that are no longer getting any light. The plant eventually “gives up” on old leaves if they spend days or weeks without light, which often happens to the lowest leaves as the plant gets bigger. This may look like a magnesium deficiency.
• If this is the case, the leaves often seem droopy, limp, and tired. These leaves don’t “stick straight out” like normal leaves because the plant isn’t wasting resources by putting energy into them.
• This is most common when using relatively weak grow lights like fluorescent lighting or CFLs, since the light doesn’t easily reach the bottom of the plant.
• Therefore this symptom is only something to worry about if it’s happening on leaves that are still getting light, or if you’re seeing the symptoms on many different leaves instead of just an occasional leaf here and there.

7.) Iron Deficiency

Symptoms

• Iron deficiencies are unique because the yellowing always affects the newest growth; it does not happen to older leaves that are already green.
• New leaves usually come in completely yellow.
• Unlike most other nutrient deficiencies that cause yellowing, yellow leaves from an iron deficiency will usually turn green, starting from the outside edges and working inwards.

How Do Growers Get It?

• Unless you are using RO or very purified water, an iron deficiency is almost always caused by incorrect pH. This is because cannabis needs very little iron, and most sources of water already contain trace amounts of iron.

How to Fix

• The pH being too high or too low is the most likely cause of this problem. Bring your pH into the correct range and iron deficiencies will just go away.
• If using purified water or water that doesn’t contain much natural iron, you may need a Cal-Mag supplement that includes iron like CaliMagic. You see these three together because Iron, Calcium, and Magnesium work closely together in the plant. You never want to supplement your plant with extra iron without also adding the correct ratio of Calcium and Magnesium at the same time, or it may cause other types of deficiencies.
• Learn more about Iron deficiencies

Iron deficiencies cause the middle and newest leaves to turn yellow, but they will slowly turn green as the plant gets older

8.) Not Enough Light (Seedlings)

When a shell first cracks, the round leaves inside are actually yellow. They only turn green once the plant starts getting enough light.

Note: Adult cannabis plants without enough light won’t grow well either, but they likely won’t have yellow leaves. In fact, adult cannabis plants that are getting relatively low levels of light will actually turn dark green since they aren’t using up nutrients for photosynthesis (the extra unused nutrients get stored in the leaves, causing them to appear darker).

How Do Growers Get It?

You know your seedling needs more light when…

• Seedlings are tall with small leaves
• There is a lot of nodal spacing (stem between each set of leaves). Seedlings look “stretchy”.
• Leaves stay yellow or pale green

How to Fix

• The solution for pale, tall, stretchy seedlings is to add more light!
• Learn more about different grow lights as well as how to upgrade your light system

This seedling is yellow and “stretching” because it needs more light

9.) Bugs or Pests

Many different types of bugs or pests can stress your plants, causing them to develop yellow leaves.

Symptoms

• You can actually see bugs or eggs
• Yellowing leaves, especially when combined with spots or bite marks
• Overall lack of vigor

How Do Growers Get Pests?

• Track them in from outside
• From visiting another grower’s plants
• Getting an infected clone or plant (sometimes there are a few tiny eggs you can’t see!)
• Certain things like overwatering, lack of cleanliness, and poor air circulation make your garden a bigger target and a better home for bugs, making it easier for an infestation to take hold and stick around.

How to Fix

• Unless you 100% trust the grower and their growing practices, never ever visit another grower’s garden or adopt clones from them. It can be incredibly difficult to get rid of bugs that are already specialized at surviving on cannabis plants!
• Avoid going straight from outside to your cannabis plants, especially if you’ve spent time in a garden.
• Make sure there is a screen to stop bugs if your plants are getting fresh air from outside.
• Identify your bugs and get rid of them!

One of the most common pests that can cause yellowing without really any other symptoms is fungus gnats. These tiny winged creatures hang around your wet topsoil, and are most likely to appear if you’re overwatering your plants. Although the adults don’t attack your plants, their larvae feast on the roots, which can eventually cause yellowing, especially on small or weak plants.

A bad fungus gnat infestation can damage or even kill your plant!

Another common pest that may cause overall leaf yellowing is spider mites!

But any time a plant has an infestation, you may notice the leaves start yellowing regardless of the type of bug. You should be very concerned if you also see spots!

Click here to find out which bugs are attacking your cannabis plants!

10.) Bud Rot

If yellow leaves appear overnight on just one or a few of your main buds, inspect the areas closely! Sometimes this is caused by bud rot at the base of the leaves.

Symptoms

• Yellow leaves on select parts of the biggest buds
• Yellowing often appears overnight
• Yellow leaves usually easily fall right out
• At the base of the leaf, you can see white, gray, or brown mold growing on the inside of the cola

How Do Growers Get It?

• Humidity above 60% RH
• Lack of air circulation/breeze
• Cool temperature – bud rot thrives around 60-70°F
• Bushy plant (too many leaves) in a small space like a grow tent
• Outdoors in rainy, cool, or humid weather

How to Fix

• Keep humidity under 50% RH during flowering if possible
• Keep the temperature above 65-70°F at night if possible
• Make sure there’s lots of air circulation around all the colas and through the plant
• Defoliate a very bushy plant, especially if it’s getting close to harvest time
• Learn how to prevent and treat bud rot!

Sometimes Yellow Leaves Are Normal!

Sometimes marijuana leaves turn yellow for totally normal reasons, including…

First Leaves Turn Yellow – Normal

After your plant has grown a few sets of leaves, it’s very normal for the first few sets of leaves to turn yellow and die, especially if they’re not getting light anymore. You will almost always lose the round cotyledons, the single-finger leaves, and the three-finger leaves (the first three sets of leaves).

This vibrant young cannabis plant is healthy and growing over an inch a day

However, if you look closely at the bottom of the plant, you can see the three bottom sets of leaves have turned yellow and are dying. This is normal. The plant does not hold onto these baby leaves for long!

Single-Finger Leaves (plus the tiny round cotyledon leaves)

Three-finger leaves

When just the first 3 sets of leaves turn yellow like the example above (leaves with three fingers or less), it’s not something to worry about as long as the rest of the plant is green, healthy, and growing fast.

You don’t normally see these in pictures because most growers remove them 🙂

The Plant is Ready to Harvest – Normal

Often plants will have a few yellow leaves by harvest time. This is completely normal and nothing to worry about as long as you’ve ruled out bud rot and most leaves seem healthy.

Mutation – Cosmetic (Usually Not Harmful)

Occasionally you may see mutations or natural variation that results in parts of leaves being yellow. The general rule of thumb with any unusual leaf symptom is if the rest of the plant is green, vibrant and healthy, there’s usually nothing to worry about.

See more common cannabis mutations

Don’t See Your Plant Problem Here?

Diagnose Your Sick Plant

Check Out the 7-Step Guide to Fixing 99% of Plant Problems!

Jump to…

7 Step Fix to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems

Pictures of Cannabis Plant Problems

What does pH have to do with nutrient deficiencies?

10-Step Quick Start Guide to Growing

The post Why Are My Cannabis Leaves Turning Yellow? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

When I was first learning about how to grow cannabis, I learned about the importance of pH to prevent nutrient deficiencies. But sometimes your pH is in the recommended range and your marijuana plants leaves are still showing signs of nutrient deficiencies.

What else besides incorrect pH causes nutrient deficiencies in cannabis plants?

Basically, when it comes to cannabis plants, your plant starts experiencing nutrient deficiencies if the pH is too high or too low at the roots. This is because the chemical structure of nutrients actually changes at different pH levels, and some versions are easier for the plant to absorb than others.

By giving your plants good cannabis nutrients and managing the pH, you’ll be able to prevent most nutrient deficiencies, ensuring your plant grows as fast and healthy as possible.

But what do you do if you’re using good nutrients and the pH is right but you’re still getting nutrient deficiencies?

When it comes down to it, nutrient deficiencies usually start at the roots, whether it’s pH or something else. This looks like a nutrient deficiency, but it’s actually caused by overwatering.

One of the most common reasons to see deficiencies when the pH is correct is the plant is being over or under-watered, which can also be related to the drainage of the grow medium and the container your plant is in. When the plant isn’t getting the right ratio of water and air at the roots, it will tend to start showing deficiencies even if everything else is right. Other issues with roots are also common culprits.

Causes of Most Nutrient Deficiencies

• PH is too high or too low ← Most Important!!! But if you’re on this page you’ve probably already got this covered.
• Not enough nutrients overall (here are recommended cannabis nutrients)
• Over-watering
• Under-watering
• Pot is too big for the size of the plant
• Plants are rootbound (been in the same pot too long)
• Too hot (and rarely too cold)
• Bugs or pest infestation

Note: Basically anything that makes your plant droopy is likely to cause nutrient deficiencies, too.

Although pH and watering practices are probably the most important thing to pay attention to, there’s more than just pH as far as your plant roots are concerned. The “alkalinity” of your water is also important. Alkalinity is related to pH, but it is also its own thing. In a way, alkalinity measures how much “stuff” is in the water that causes the pH to go up. And this also affects nutrient absorption.

If you’re still having trouble after going through the steps above, and your pH is in the right range…

• If you have “hard” water, you should generally aim for a slightly lower pH (aim for around 6.5 pH for soil and 6.0 pH for coco or hydro).
• If you have “soft” water, you should generally aim for a slightly higher pH (aim closer to 7 pH for soil and 6.5 pH for coco or hydro).

I hope that helps some people dial in the correct pH based on their starting water.

Jump to…

Tips to Growing Top-Shelf Buds

How to Measure & Adjust PH

Which Nutrients Should I Use?

7 Steps to Fix 99% of Growing Problems

The post Why are cannabis plants getting nutrient deficiencies when the pH is correct? appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Table of Contents

Why Flush Cannabis Plants in the First Place?

• Which growers should flush?
• How to prevent the need to flush

How to Flush a Sick Marijuana Plant (without harming it)

How to Fix Incorrect pH Without Flushing – Do this if possible!

Why Should I Flush My Sick Marijuana Plants?

The main reason to flush your sick cannabis plants is to try to correct something wrong at the roots. Flushing means watering your plants with lots of plain water at once. All that extra water leaches out extra nutrients or salt buildup in soil or coco coir. Flushing can also be used to address nutrient deficiencies caused by incorrect pH near the roots. However, flushing is stressful for plants, so it should be avoided unless you have no other choice. This tutorial will teach you when to flush your plants, and when you should address your sick cannabis plants a different way.

Flushing plants with lots of water makes them droopy, and should be avoided if possible. Take good care of plants and you’ll never need to flush. But when it comes to growing, things don’t always go according to plan! If that happens, this tutorial will guide you on what to do.

The following cannabis plants were flushed due to nutrient deficiencies.

When flushing is done properly, your cannabis plants should quickly bounce back and start growing healthy without deficiencies.

Related Article: How to Flush Cannabis Plants Before Harvest to Improve Bud Taste

The most common reasons to flush sicks plants are…

• Fix pH – The pH at the roots is several points too high or too low, causing major nutrient deficiencies
• Flush Out Additives That Made Plant Sick – It’s important to flush a plant that has been watered with something that has made it sick, for example if it is losing leaves because it was recently watered with a pesticide, nutrient or supplement that was too strong.
• Leach Out Time-Release Nutrients – If transplanting isn’t an option, sometimes a grower will flush a plant that is being grown in soil with “time release” nutrients (like Miracle-Gro soil). This idea is to try to leach out extra nutrients (specifically nitrogen) before the flowering stage begins. Too much nitrogen in the flowering stage can give buds a “green” taste as well as actually prevent buds from getting as big as they normally would. Since time-release soils slowly releases nitrogen for months it’s important to flush that out before your plant starts making buds.

If your cannabis plant gets sick the day after you add a new supplement for the first time, you should probably flush your plant to “start fresh” at the roots.

Which Growers Should Flush Their Plants?

Flushing sick plants is for…

• Soil
• Coco coir
• Other soilless mediums

Flushing sick plants is NOT for…

• Hydroponic or DWC grow setups – if you have a nutrient or pH problem, just change the reservoir so it has exactly what you want

How to Prevent the Need to Flush Your Plants

• Start Nutrients at 1/2 Strength – When using a new type of nutrients for your cannabis plants, it’s a good idea to start at 1/2 strength at first. It’s also a good idea to start any pesticides or supplements at half strength until you see how your plant reacts.
• Give More Nutrients to Pale Plants – Increase nutrient dose if the overall plant is starting to look pale or lime green.
• Lower Nutrients for Dark Leaves or Nutrient Burn – If you notice plants are getting dark green in color, try lowering nutrient levels or giving plain water every other watering until their color has improved. If you notice brown crispy tips on the leaves all over the plant, that’s another sign of the plant overall getting too much “stuff” (whether nutrients or supplements) in the water. If the dark leaves or brown tips are the result of too much nutrients, usually you’ll see these symptoms all over the plant instead of just a few leaves.
• Check pH for Other Nutrient Deficiencies – If you seen nutrient deficiencies like yellow leaves, spots, or brown markings, the first step is to check and adjust the pH of the water you give your plants. Maintaining the right pH is the #1 way to prevent nutrient deficiencies. Simply do this one check when you water, and you’ll dramatically reduce the chance you’ll even need to flush (pH being too high or too low is the main reason to flush plants). Learn more about nutrient deficiencies.
• Reduce Light Levels on Sick Plants – When plants are sick, try moving the grow light up a few inches or even a foot. This will help your plant recover more effectively from many nutrient problems, whether you end up flushing the plants or not.

Try to prevent nutrients problems before they happen so you never need to flush!

How to Flush Sick Cannabis Plants

1. Make up water with low levels of nutrients (1/4 strength or seedling dose). You want to take out the bad and replace with the good.
2. Give 3x the pot size – Use enough water so that you’re giving the plant 3x as much water as the volume of the pot. It may take a little while. Remove all runoff water immediately, you don’t want your plant to suck the bad stuff back up!
3. Give regular strength nutrients at the end – Make up one last batch of nutrient water at regular strength, and give this to your plants. You are replacing what you took out with what you want to be there – fresh, pH’ed nutrient water!
4. Make sure there is a fan blowing over the top of the growing medium to help it dry out so plants don’t get as droopy from being overwatered. There should be plenty of air circulation in the grow space, with access to lots of fresh air.
5. Raise your grow lights up a few inches while your plant is recovering. Your plant definitely needs plenty of light, but you don’t want to make it work too hard during the recovery period.
6. Wait a few days for improvement – Although your plant may get droopy at first, you should start to see improvement within a few days. Try not to water it again until the top inch is starting to dry. It’s not recommended to flush a plant two times in a row. After the first flush you should have flushed out what was hurting the plant in the soil. At this point, it’s time to give your plants some TLC while you get things back on track.

How to Fix Incorrect pH Without Flushing

1.) Determine your target pH

• Soil: 6-7 pH
• Coco: 5.5-6.5 pH

2.) Collect runoff

Give your water at the correct pH, and collect runoff water out the bottom. Is the pH too high or low? If the pH is higher or lower than the correct range, don’t panic! At the very least you’re already giving your water at the correct pH from on top. That will help the plant stay healthy while you fix whatever is going on at the roots. Now, onto fixing your pH.

3.) Start fixing the pH the next time you water your plants.

If you already have major nutrient problems, you might consider flushing as stated above. But if you don’t see problems yet, or if you only see just a little bit of leaf discoloration or yellowing, there’s no need to flush. Flushing is very stressful for plants and may prevent them from recovering as fast as they could, so it should be avoided if possible.

Most of the time, if your runoff pH was too high or too low, it’s better to wait until your next watering to start correcting it.

4.) Always give water in the correct pH range, but at the opposite end.

Next time you water your plants give water in the correct range, but at the opposite end of the range to start trying to get it to move in the other direction.

If your runoff water is coming out at 4.5 pH, it means you should water your plants at the high end of your desired pH range. So for soil you would water your plants at 7.0 pH, and with coco you’d water your plants at 6.5 pH.

This ensures that your roots are getting some amount of nutrient water at the correct pH, while also starting to leach out whatever is in the growing medium that’s dragging the pH down.

5.) When pH of water going in and out mostly match, you’re good!

Eventually, your pH is going to start coming out the bottom of the plant in the right pH range, even if it takes a few weeks.

Collect the runoff water and check to make sure the pH isn’t too high or low. Proper pH stops most nutrient deficiencies!

I’ve found that correcting the pH following this process seems to stop most nutrient problems within just a few days, while preventing your plant from getting stressed from a true “flush.”

—

I wish I had known this before I started growing. I’ve done too many unnecessary flushes and unintentionally stressed out my plants. I hope this help guides you to better results in your cannabis growing journey.

Happy growing!

Nebula Haze

Jump to…​

Diagnose My Sick Plants!

How To Get To Harvest As Fast As Possible

Where to Get Marijuana Seeds Online

The Perpetual Harvest

The post How to Flush a Sick Cannabis Plant appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

When your cannabis plant gets sick, the natural reaction is to diagnose the sickness and fix the root of the problem.

But is there anything you can do in the meantime to help your plant while it recovers?

The following tips are easy-to-do treatments your can perform to provide relief to your plant for almost any kind of stress. The following steps are sort of like a general health "tonic." Although these things might not fix a problem on their own, they will help your plant recover more quickly!

Some symptoms are common when the plant is stressed, regardless of what is causing the stress. As long as you fix the root of the problem, the tips on this page will help plants recover more quickly from problems like…

• Wilting, drooping or all-over yellowing from common issues like root problems, light burn, overwatering, underwatering, etc
• Nutrient deficiencies
• Heat stress
• Pest infestations

Stress-Relieving Supplements

Supplements aren't magic, but they can definitely help make things a little easier for your plants. The best cannabis supplements for stress are:

Kelp (Seaweed)

Kelp contains trace amounts of hundreds of micronutrients and minerals, as well as unique, not-well-understood properties that seem to sooth stress for many types of plants including cannabis. Due to it's overall usefulness you will see sea kelp as an ingredient on many different types of supplements and sometimes even included as a part of base nutrients.

I use a company called General Hydroponics for my main nutrients, and they offer a great all-around supplement called Floralicious Plus. F+ contains not only sea kelp but a slew of other helpful ingredients like amino acids, humic acids, vitamins, complex sugars and more. Due to it's relatively low macronutrient content, a small amount can be safely used as a supplement alongside a regular nutrient program without causing nutrient burn.

But althout it's my choice, F+ definitely isn't your only choice; most nutrient companies offer a similar product, and whenever possible it's a good idea to get supplements from the same company as your main nutrients, just to make sure there's no unexpected interactions.

Silica (Si)

Silica is a supplement that can help strengthen individual cell walls of your plant. Although extra silica usually isn't necessary for healthy growth, providing it to your plant on a regular basis will not only make the plant physically stronger against physical stress (like a light falling on it), it will be more hardy against stress from heat or cold. Silica can also help make certain nutrients more available to the plant, including phosphorus, boron, copper, iron, manganese and zinc, while protecting roots from absorbing certain toxic substances like aluminum and sodium.

Overall, silica won't cure anything, but a silica-supplemented plant tends to be more robust even in adverse conditions! When supplementing silica I use Armor Si by General Hydroponics, though most nutrient companies offer a silica product that goes along with their nutrient line.

Compost Tea

Compost tea is a common name for a water solution that has been soaked in compost. Compost tea is pretty amazing stuff and can carry the power of composted soil (which plants love) and make it immediately available to your plants in liquid form. It contains nutrients, microorganisms and more, and growers have been brewing compost teas for their cannabis plants as long as people have been writing about growing cannabis!

Compost Tea – capture some of the power of compost, but in liquid form!

Compost tea is a great supplement for soil growers, though hydroponic growers should avoid compost teas (or anything with a lot of organic material – hydro growers should use a root supplement specifically made for hydro like Hydroguard).

Plants that have been supplemented with compost tea may grow greener, faster, and be more resistant to disease and nutrient deficiencies. You might be surprised to find out your local hydroponic store or gardening center sells or even gives compost tea away for free if you bring your own container. It's also common for growers to make compost tea at home, though it can be a little messy. For those who want to just try it out with a bottled product, Botanicare offers a very well rated compost-tea-in-a-bottle product called Pure Blend Tea.

Reduce Light Levels

If you take a cannabis plant and give it relatively low levels of light, it won't grow as fast but it will tend to turn grow lush and healthy. In fact, you can see this principle in action with most indoor cannabis plants, because the leaves that don't get direct light tend to be darker and more green than the ones directly under the grow light.

Notice how the leaves lower down and around the edges of this cannabis plant are more lush and green than the leaves directly under the grow light. In fact, if light levels stay too high for too long, leaves may actually die early due to light burn.

Although too-bright light comes with risks, generally growers keep light levels as high as they can in order to get plants to grow faster. The extra photosynthesis is why plants under powerful grow lights tend to grow bigger and faster than plants kept under less powerful lights. By making the plant work harder you're rewarded with more growth.

However, since a hard-working plant is more susceptible to deficiencies and other problems, if growing problems do come up, one easy and effective way to dramatically reduce stress on the plant is simply to lower the light levels.

The most common way to do this is to raise the grow light higher. Some grow lights (or rather, their ballasts) also let you reduce the power.

An easy way to reduce stress on your plant is to raise your grow lights (or reduce their power) – plants can recover from stress more quickly when light levels are relatively low

Slightly Longer Night Periods

If your plant has less "to do" than it will be able to focus more on getting better, and less on just doing the hard work of photosynthesis. So in addition to lowering the light levels, you can also give your plant slightly longer night periods during the times of stress, and put them back to normal after your plant has recovered and is growing fast and healthy.

Vegetative stage – Give plants only 17-18 hours of light a day until plants recover (compared to the more common 18-24 hours of light a day usually recommended for the vegetative stage)

Flowering Stage – Give plants 12 hours of light a day (don't give longer night periods in the flowering/budding stage unless you want your plant to mature faster – giving cannabis plants less than 12 hours of light a day can result in a quicker harvest but reduced yields)

Tackle Temps

Too much heat (and cold) is stressful for the plant as it can't properly fulfill all its regular life processes. Keeping a temperature that's comfortable for humans also happens to be optimal for the plant. 

Since most growers who struggle with temperature are dealing with too much heat, the other steps we've gone through actually make this part easier. With reduced light and shorter day periods, your plants will likely be experiencing cooler temperatures anyway.

By keeping your temperature between 70-80°F (21-27°C), you are taking temperature out of the equation as a possible stressor. At comfortable temps, your plant will tend to be better able to heal itself and make smoother recovery from problems like heat stress, nutrient burn and nutrient deficiencies.

Learn how to tackle temps!

Next time you see a plant problem, don't panic! Diagnose the problem then follow as many of these tips as you can during the recovery and before you know it your plant will be back on track!

Jump to…

5 Secrets to Controlling Heat

Hermies, Bananas & Male Plants (common side effect of plant stress)

What does pH have to do with nutrient deficiencies?

7 Tips to Growing Top Shelf Buds

The post Plant Health “Tonic” for Faster Recovery! appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Mold. Most people who grow cannabis aren’t thinking about mold at all! But there are 3 main types of mold that often attack unsuspecting cannabis growers…

• White Powdery Mildew
• Bud Rot
• Fuzzy White Mold (Regular Mold)

There’s so many other things besides mold to worry about during your grow, like nutrient deficiencies, plant training, bugs, increasing yields, increasing THC, etc.

But unfortunately, mold has a way of creeping into your life when you least expect it!

It’s possible to get mold at any point at any point in your plant’s life, but even if you make it through your entire grow without mold, the last 2 weeks before harvest (and the first few weeks after harvest) are actually the times when you’re most likely to get attacked!

This is extra frustrating because mold makes buds completely unsafe to smoke, and it most often gets you after you’ve already dedicated months and months of work into your grow. If you’re not careful mold can decimate your entire crop!

Yuck!!!!! NEVER smoke moldy buds! If buds look fuzzy white, brown, black or gray, don’t smoke them!

Even if you’ve had several successful grows, there may be things you’re accidentally doing which can increase your chances of mold. Certain strains are much more susceptible to mold throughout their lives, so good practices will go a long way to making sure mold never gets you no matter what strain you grow!

Luckily, mold is really easy to prevent, and you have a lot of tools to help you combat mold so you never have to worry about it again! If you cover your bases, you can prevent this gross affliction from ever ruining your crops!

Where does mold come from?

All mold comes from spores. But how do the spores get to your plants? They can get tracked in from anywhere at any time, and there’s always some amount of mold spores in the air pretty much everywhere you go. Although it is a really great idea to keep your grow room as sterile and clean as possible, it’s still possible for mold spores to get in no matter what you do.

In fact, NASA has recently started growing various plants in space, and they were shocked to find out that their flowers also started molding in too-humid conditions! Even NASA didn’t know that mold would be able to make it all the way to the International Space Station.

NASA astronaut Steve Swanson showing off the red, blue and green LED lights of the “Veggie” plant growth system on May 7, 2014. Credits: NASA (Do you want to grow cannabis with LEDs?)

The point is that mold spores are probably already in your grow room or around your plants in tiny amounts, but luckily they just can’t grow without the right conditions. Since it’s easy to create an environment to prevent mold from ever taking hold of your plants, you can be sure that any spores will never “blossom” on your plants.

3 Times You Are Most Likely to See Mold

1.) When plants are big and leafy

White Powdery Mildew is a type of mold that attacks when your plants are growing in hot, humid conditions without a lot of airflow; WPM needs stagnant air to grow. It looks a little bit like someone dropped some flour on your leaves, buds or stems.

WPM also grows on stems

A little WPM on your leaves is a bad sign, but if WPM gets out of control it can destroy buds and even kill a whole plant!

Learn more about White Powdery Mildew

WPM can attack your plants and buds at any point in their life, even when they are small, but it’s most common when you have big leafy plants because they reduce airflow and increase humidity. This is most especially true in small spaces like a grow tent. The plant on the right is so leafy that no light is actually making it through the top of the plant. With so much vegetation in such a small space, you’re setting up a great place for WPM to strike, especially if it’s hot.

The more vegetation a plant has, the more water it is releasing into the air. Think about how much water you’re giving to your plants. A great deal of that water is ultimately ending up in the air. Since big plants drink a lot, they’re converting lots of water into high humidity levels. It’s the same reason why a rainforest is always humid and misty!

But big plants in small spaces also means there’s less airflow, possibly creating pockets of stagnant air, creating the perfect conditions for WPM to grow.

Smart fan placement will go a long way towards preventing WPM. WPM simply can’t grow in a breezy environment. If there is a slight breeze over all your leaves (all the leaves are rustling gently, but not waving around), not only are you preventing WPM, but as an added bonus your plants love it and will actually grow faster too!

But even with lots of fans, too-high humidity is your enemy. A good exhaust system with a strong exhaust fan will vent out all the hot, humid air to be replaced with cooler, drier air from outside the grow space. And with very leafy plants like above (where the entire middle and bottom half are not getting any light at all) a little bit of defoliation (removing leaves) can go a long way towards increasing airflow throughout the inside of the plant while reducing the humidity. And in a pinch, a dehumidifier can also be used to help keep humidity down.

The last thing you can do is make sure the temperature in your grow space never goes above 80°F (27°C) and especially not over 85°F (30°C) because that’s when WPM starts going crazy, and mold can cover a whole plant in just a few days!
2.) Late Flowering Stage

Within the last few weeks before harvest, buds become very susceptible to mold, both the white fuzzy kind and the dark brown or gray dusty kind. The bigger and denser your buds, the easier it is for mold to take hold.

Mold can come in many gross colors, including white, yellow, brown, gray or almost sooty black

It doesn’t matter what type of mold it is, the types of mold that attack buds from the inside all have the same basic effects and can be prevented by the same tactics. With inner bud mold (often just called “bud rot”) the outside of the bud may appear normal at first, but all the leaves will die suddenly. The bud itself will also become discolored soon after mold has taken hold.

All the other colas look healthy, what’s wrong with that single cola with yellow leaves?

Although lots of things can cause yellow leaves, it’s curious when only one cola is showing symptoms while all the other ones look healthy. It’s important to immediately investigate anything weird or new going on with your plants. Upon closer inspection, the bud still looks mostly normal from the outside, but what’s that?

When a cannabis plant has been hit by bud rot, it easily “opens up” at the spot to reveal the mold underneath. Any leaves touching the mold are loose and falling out.

If buds are attacked by bud rot, it’s a really good idea to immediately cut down and trash all the affected buds, then cut your losses and harvest the plant immediately. An entire bud can be taken over literally overnight, especially if another bud had mold because it means there are tons of spores in the tent. Don’t wait to flush your plants, don’t wait until the weekend, harvest your buds as soon as possible or you may wake up the next morning to find you’ve lost more buds!

Learn more about cannabis bud rot.

3.) During Drying & Curing

I know, it’s been a lot of work with harvesting and trimming, but don’t let your guard down during drying and curing. You have made it this far, you have put in this much work and time, don’t give up on your buds now!

How you dry and cure your buds is a huge part of what separates good bud from bad bud, and can completely change how it looks and tastes, as well as its potency and “smoothness.”

If I had to say what it’s been like in my experience, I’d say when it comes to quality, how you grow your bud makes up 50% of its final quality, 25% is strain, and the drying and curing process makes up the other 25%.

And in addition to increasing bud quality, drying and curing the right way prevents mold. The drying/curing process is a tricky time where it can be easy to create conditions where mold can grow overnight, so it’s not a good idea to skip steps. But the most important thing you can do is check on your buds regularly so that you can react quickly if there’s a problem!

How to dry & cure your cannabis buds perfectly every time.

How to Prevent Mold So It Never Happens to You!

1. Indoors
2. Outdoors

Preventing Mold Indoors

• The best way to control humidity is to design your space right from the beginning. The most important thing when it comes to keeping humidity from getting too high is to set up an efficient exhaust system.

• Set up fans inside the grow space making sure there’s air blowing both under and directly over your plants, preventing your undercarriage and fattest colas from ever sitting in stagnant air.
• Be aware of overall plant mass and leaf mass, as every leaf on your plant is constantly adding more moisture to the air. The more leaves your plant has, the more water it drinks, and all that water is being released as vapor into your grow space!
• Get a prominent temperature/humidity monitor and don’t forget to check it when you check your plants.

• Inspect plants and especially fat buds regularly. If you see that leaves coming out of your buds are suddenly dying and curling in while the rest of the plant looks good, that is one major sign your buds might have mold.

More Tips:

• If you get moldy buds, if at all possible try to harvest the whole plant ASAP. You already have mold spores in your space, and there were obviously good conditions for mold, so you want to save everything you can and possibly prevent more yield loss.
• Don’t let your plants live in an environment that is too cool or too hot. Certain types of mold (like white powdery mildew) do better in hot, stagnant conditions at 80°F (27°C) and hotter. Most other types of mold (fuzzy white mold, bud rot, etc) grow best in cool conditions around 68°F (20°C). If possible, try to keep plants at a comfortable room temperature around 75°F (24°C) in situations where it’s humid.
• Defoliation – You may possibly want to remove some leaves from your plants if your plants are extra big and leafy. If the bottom of your grow space isn’t getting any light, than chances are no air is getting through the plant either. In that case it can be a good idea to clean up extra leaves and buds towards the bottom of the plant. This also gives you a chance to remove buds that are sparse and not developing, so the plant can focus more energy to the top buds which actually get access to light. The less vegetative matter in the space, the better as far as reducing humidity.But it’s important not to over-defoliate your plant, as this can dramatically reduce your yields. Only defoliate a very leafy plant, and focus on removing leaves that either don’t get any light (towards the bottom and middle of the plant) as well as big fan leaves that are blocking a lot of bud sites from getting direct sunlight.Leaves power the growth of the plant, and in the second half of the flowering stage your plant won’t be growing any more leaves. So avoid stripping your plant during the time when it’s not growing new leaves and you’re still weeks from harvest. Removing too many leaves can reduce your yields and increase the chances of your buds getting discolored. That’s because leaves provide a certain amount of protection to your buds in that they’ll absorb damage first (like nutrient burn, light burn and deficiencies). When there aren’t any leaves, damage shows up on the buds first!

Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains for Indoors

Although nothing can fix bad growing practices, some strains are more resilient towards mold than others. If you’re growing in a smaller space, or if you live in a part of the world that gets very humid, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain!

Note: Strains with shorter flowering periods tend to be less likely to get mold since the buds don’t spend as much time in the flowering stage.

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable to being grown indoors:

• Moby Dick – Very easy to grow, very mold resistant, VERY potent. Smells a bit like peppermint but has also been described as having an old-school skunky flavor similar to popular sativa buds from the early 90’s. Great yields, too!

• Sweet Tooth – In California where I live, this strain is very popular at dispensaries and often goes for very high prices! Well now you can grow it at home, too! It has a sweet flavor/taste that is reminiscent of chocolate, and the effects are powerful. As a bonus it is mold-resistant from its Hawaiian roots!

Preventing Mold Outdoors

Shake wet or dewy plants in the morning, and especially after a rain if you can. Preventing the buds from staying wet goes a long way towards preventing mold or bud rot. Letting buds stay wet and dewy makes it a lot easier for bud mold to take hold!

Plant in breezy spot, with lots of sunlight. Preferably it should get direct sunlight in the morning to help dry off any dew or rain from the night.

Although you are always at the mercy of nature, do the best you can to protect your plants from wet and cold. Cool, wet conditions are the time when mold is most likely to hit your buds. That’s why fall can be so dangerous – buds are fat and dense, making them a perfect home for mold.

If the weather is especially cool and wet, and especially if even one plant actually gets bud rot, harvest your buds immediately! If it’s happened to one it will usually spread to the others quickly. It’s better to harvest a little early than lose your whole harvest!

Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains for Outdoors

Although definitely not foolproof, some strains are more resistant than others to mold. If you live in a humid environment, or if you’re an outdoor grower who gets cool wet conditions early in the fall, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain!

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable to being grown outdoors

• Frisian Dew – A popular strain because about half of the plants grow buds that turn an incredible, vibrant purple (the other half of plants grow green buds but still beautiful and the effects are just as good). This strain is very well suited to outdoor growing, even in northern climates, and is especially resistant to mold.

• Jamaican Pearl – This fruity-smelling strain grows very well outdoors, and is not only mold resistant but it also has great yields. It’s known to produce a unique cerebral in-your-head effect that lasts a long time and won’t put you to sleep. Harvest Jamaican Pearl buds before the trichomes start turning amber for the best effects!

Example of a dense Jamaican Pearl bud

Jump to….

7 Rules to Stealthy Growing

Diagnose Your Sick Plant

How to Train Your Plants for Bigger Yields

Tips for Growing Top-Shelf Buds

The post Avoid 3 Main Types of Cannabis Mold appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

In addition to the search bar, this link guide helps you navigate through the Grow Weed Easy website. Learn about growing topics you won’t find anywhere else! This is a shortened list of all our cannabis growing tutorials, as the website has over 500 articles and tutorials!

Full List of EVERYTHING on GWE  ← Over 500 Articles & Growing Tutorials!

Start Here – Beginner Grow Guides

• Complete Beginner’s Guide
• How do I start growing my own weed indoors? (get help choosing your setup)
• How to Grow Weed in 10 Steps
• Simplest Cannabis Grow Guide Ever!
• How Long Does It Take to Grow Weed? (Marijuana Growth Timeline)
• 3 Steps from Beginner to Legendary Grower
• Complete New Grower’s Shopping List

Cannabis Life Stages

• Germination
• Vegetative Stage (Getting Bigger)
• Flowering Stage (Making Buds)
• Harvest

Choosing…

• Best Type of Nutrients
• Choosing the Best Grow Light
• Soil vs Hydro
• How Many Plants Should I Grow?
• What Part of the House Should I Grow In?
• What Setup Should I Get?
• Best Strains for Beginners
• Where to Get Seeds (including the U.S.)

Common New Grower Topics

• How Much Will Electricity Cost?
• Stealth Growing: How NOT to Get Caught Growing Weed
• What Equipment Do I Need?
• Germinate Your Seeds
• 7 Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me When I First Started Growing Weed
• How to Save Money When Growing Weed
• How to Store Weed Properly (so it never loses smell or potency!)
• Ask Questions & Get Answers From Real Growers! (In Our Free Growing Community)
• Cannabis Grower’s Glossary

Problems & Symptoms

• Cannabis Problems Guide
  • How to Help Yellow Seedlings
  • How to Fix Yellow Cannabis Leaves
  • How to Fix Curling and Clawing Cannabis Leaves
  • What Causes Dry or Crispy Leaves?
  • What Causes Brown Spots on Cannabis Leaves?
  • What Causes Bananas (“Nanners”) on Cannabis Buds?
  • Is This Nutrient Burn on My Marijuana Plant?
  • What causes red stems in cannabis plants?
• Diagnose Your Sick Plant
• Bugs & Other Cannabis Pests
• How to Prevent Nutrient Deficiencies
  • Which Nutrient Deficiencies are Caused by pH? (picture guide)
  • How to Stop Flowering Stage Nutrient Deficiencies
• 7 Reasons Why Cannabis Plants Grow Slow
• 5-Step Remedy That Fixes 99% of Grow Problems
• All-Natural Pesticides – Safe Up to Harvest!

Plant Training (Indoor Tricks for Bigger Yields)

• Simplest Plant Training Guide Ever!
• How to Control Height of Indoor Cannabis Plants
• Complete Plant Training Guide
• Breakdown of Techniques​
  • Low Stress Training (LST) Tutorial
  • Topping vs FIMing Tutorial
  • LBH’s Famous ScrOG Tutorial
  • Supercropping: Magic Technique to Control Cannabis Plant Height
  • Sea of Green (SoG) Tutorial
  • 12-12 from Seed – Flowering Plants Early
  • Nebula’s Manifold Tutorial
  • How to Manifold Clones
  • Nebula’s Bud-Based Defoliation Tutorial
  • Alternate Defoliation Tutorial ​
  • What is Re-Vegging / Monstercropping?
• How Can I Train an Auto-Flowering Plant?
• 7 Unfortunate Plant Training Mistakes

Grow Mediums

• What’s the Best Growing Medium?
• Soil vs Coco vs Hydro
• Basic Soil Guide
• Organic Soil Compost Guide (Super Soil) – Just Add Water!
• Coco Coir Guide
  • Coco Coir: The Most Flexible Cannabis Grow Medium
• Hydro/DWC/Bubbleponics Guide
• “True” Organic Growing vs Just Using Organic Nutrients
• Can You Use Miracle-Gro?

Nutrients

• Which Nutrients Are Best For Growing Cannabis?
• Soil Nutrients
• Coco Coir Nutrients
• Hydroponic Nutrients

Grow Lights

• 5 Best LED Grow Lights 2025 (Yields, Speed, & Bud Quality)
• Compare Types of Cannabis Grow Lights
  • Fluorescents (T5s) – Good for Seedlings Only (not powerful enough to produce potent buds or big yields)
  • CFLs (Spiral Bulbs) – Not Recommended (LEDs are much better)
  • LED Grow Lights – Recommended for Most Home Growers
  • MH/HPS Grow Lights – Good Alternative to LEDs, But Run Much Hotter
  • CMH / LEC Grow Lights – Good Alternative to LEDs, But Run Much Hotter
  • Plasma / Magnetic Induction Grow Lights – Not Recommended (poor cannabis growth)
• How Does Light Spectrum Affect Marijuana Plants?
• How Far Away Do I Keep My Grow Lights?
• You Can Actually Give Plants Too Much Light?!
• Grow Light Upgrade Guide: Yields & Potency Explained
• Cannabis Grow Lights: What’s the Best Size?

Best LED Grow Light Articles

• 5 Best LED Grow Lights 2025 (Yields, Speed, & Bud Quality)
• LED Grow Lights: Too Much or Not Enough Light?
• LED Grow Journal: Mars Hydro TSL-2000W vs Spider Farmer SF-2000
• LEC vs LED Grow Lights: Side-by-Side Cannabis Grow Journal
• Nebula’s Auto-Flowering Grow Journal (Topping vs Natural) – cannabis plants are grown under LED grow lights

Environment

• Create the Perfect Growing Environment
  • Temperature Tutorial
  • 5 Secrets to Heat Control
  • Control Humidity for Better Buds
  • How to Use Reflective Walls to Increase Yields Indoors
  • How to Make Plants Grow Faster with CO2
• Where’s the Best Place in the House to Grow Your Plants?
• How to Control Odors
• How to Set Up an Exhaust
• How to Set Up a Grow Tent for Better Yields (and Stealth)

Plant Care Tutorials

• Cloning
  • How to clone weed in a cup of water (easy!)
  • How to make cannabis clones with an aero cloner
• Intro to Plant Training for Bigger Yields Indoors
• How Often to Water Plants
  • The Easiest Way to Water Plants & Remove Runoff
• How (and When) to Transplant Cannabis
• Male vs Female Plants
• When to Harvest?
• Drying & Curing

How to Improve…

• Yields
• Bud Quality
  • 7 Environment Effects on Bud Quality
  • The Secret to Excellent Bud Quality
• THC Levels
• CBD Levels
• Smell/Taste
• Density
• Bud Color (How to Grow Pink or Purple Buds)
• Glitter (Make Buds Sparkle with More Trichomes)
• Bonus: What Determines Yields?

Buying Seeds

• Where to Get Seeds
• How to Find the Right Strain
• What are “Feminized” Seeds?
• Which Breeders to Trust?
• Photoperiod vs Auto-Flowering Cannabis Strains
• Bag Seed vs Hype Seed: Is it worth it to buy cannabis seeds?

Recommended Strains

• Best Autoflowering Cannabis Strains for Yields & Potency
• List of Sugar-Dusted Strains (Heavy Trichome Genetics)
• 10 Cold-Resistant Cannabis Strains
• 14 Heat-Resistant Cannabis Strains
• Which cannabis strains stay short? (Best strains for small spaces)

Auto-Flowering Strains

• Nebula’s Guide to Cannabis Auto-Flowering Strains (Photoperiod vs Auto-Flowering)
• Should I “Top” or Train an Auto-Flowering Plant?
• What’s the best light schedule for auto-flowering strains?
• Nebula’s Auto-Flowering Grow Journal (Topping vs Natural)

Edibles

• Decarboxylation: How to Decarb Your Weed (crucial step for just about every edible recipe)
• Best Weed Butter Recipe
  • How to Make Great Brownies with Weed Butter
• Canna Caps
• How to Make Cannabis Gummies (Weed Gummy Bears)
• How to Make Cannabis Tinctures
• How to Make Hash Oil (aka Cannabis Extract Oil, Rick Simpson Oil, or RSO)

Extracts (No Solvents Used in Any Recipe)

• Solventless Extraction Showdown – Bubble Hash vs. Dry-Ice Hash!
• Dry Ice Hash (Made with Dry Ice)
• How to Make Bubble Hash (Made with Ice Water)
• How To Make Your Own Homemade Rosin (dabs)

And Lots More!

• How Long Does it Take to Grow Weed?
• Vegetative vs Flowering Stage (Long Days vs Long Nights)
• Germination & Seedling Mistakes
• Simple Guide to Plant Training
• What’s the Best Pot / Container?
• Perpetual Harvest
• What Determines Yields?
• 5 Time-Savers for Busy Growers
• Breeding Techniques
• 7 Gift Ideas for Cannabis Growers
• Grow Journals
• How long can I store nutrient water?
• What is High-Frequency Fertigation?
• Where is it legal to grow weed in the USA?
• See EVERYTHING on the Site!

Safety & Preparation

• Fire Protection in the Grow Room
• Electrical Safety Tips & Tricks
• Prepare Yourself for Growing Emergencies
• Stealth Growing Indoors: How to NOT get Caught Growing Weed

Just for Fun

• Weird or What? Cannabis Mutations & More!
• Creatures on Cannabis (Cute Photo Gallery)
• 10 Gift Ideas for Cannabis Growers

Submit Pics

• Submit Trophy Pictures of your Plants!
• How to Take Better Plant Pics
• How to Fix Yellow HPS Pics

Want More?

• Complete List of EVERYTHING on GWE  ← Full List (Over 500 articles & growing!)

Thanks for visiting! We hope our website helps you find the growing tutorials you were looking for. We’ve written hundreds of growing marijuana articles and unfortunately we can’t fit them all on this page, so we encourage you to use the search bar on the right side (or top of the page for mobile users) to search for articles you don’t see here.

Happy growing!
Nebula & Sirius

Use this “Navigation” page to find the pot growing topic you’re interested in, or click here to see every single page on the website!

The post Link Guide to Growing Cannabis Tutorials appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.