GrowWeedEasy.com teaches you the secrets of home grow. Growing weed is easy when you know what to do, but most “how to grow marijuana” tutorials leave you feeling like you need a degree in horticulture.

• Start Here: How to grow weed
• Sick Plants? See the plant doctor
• When to Harvest? Harvest guide

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Who Made GrowWeedEasy.com?

Grow Weed Easy.com was started in 2010 by home growers Nebula Haze and Sirius Fourside. Together, they built a free online “encyclopedia of cannabis home grow” with 650+ expert home cannabis cultivation tutorials about every aspect of growing weed.

GrowWeedEasy.com is now the biggest and most comprehensive source of free home grow information in the world.  We show you how easy it is to grow your own marijuana at home.

The GrowWeedEasy.com Ethos

Our Goal: You grow as much top-shelf weed as possible, with as little time and effort needed to grow your desired yields and cannabis bud quality.

Whether you’re a total beginner who wants to start growing cannabis indoors for the first time, or an experienced grower who wants to upgrade your skills to Pro level, this website was built for you.

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If you’re reading this right now, you want to grow great cannabis at home.

Cannabis plants isn’t a regular house plant, but learning how to grow isn’t as complicated growers make it seem. We’ve spent the last 16 years breaking down the home grow process so anyone can learn it.

The key to consistent harvest results is simple: follow a proven system developed for home growers.

You could waste an entire grow learning through trial and error…

Or take the shortcut and harvest a sea of fat, dense, beautiful buds that smell great. At home!

Follow our 5-week course and get walked through each part step-by-step. Build by experienced home growers and honed with hundreds of students since 2019, we ensure you achieve great results on your very next harvest.

Learn How To Grow Top-Shelf Weed at Home!

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You may be asking yourself these common growing questions:

“How do I grow marijuana indoors?”

Read this guide on how to grow marijuana indoors. Or check out this article to learn what materials you need to get started growing your own marijuana!

Luckily, it’s really easy to get a cannabis seed to sprout!

“How much money will it cost to get started?”

If you’re considering growing weed, it costs as little as $300 to get started growing or a bit more for a semi-automatic, high-yielding bubbleponics grow system. See examples of yields to expect, electricity use & startup costs for different setups. Read this article to see even more growing styles with different price ranges.

“Where can I get marijuana seeds?”

Check out our How to Buy Marijuana Seeds Online Guide (with delivery to every state of the USA) to safely get your hands on good genetics. Starting with good seeds lets you choose the looks, smell, and effects of your buds!

Learn where it’s safe to buy cannabis seeds online (2026 update).

What do good cannabis seeds look like?

Learn about the best marijuana beginner strains and how to research and find the right strain.

Cannabis buds are generally green, but can also be pink or purple with certain strains.

“How much will electricity cost each month?”

If you’re just growing a few marijuana plants for personal use, it will cost you $20-$100+/month for electricity, depending on what grow lights (electricity) and nutrients you use. On average, I’d say a hobby-size grower might pay about $50/month to grow, but it depends greatly on your setup and local electricity costs! How much will electricity cost each month?

“How can I increase my marijuana yields?”

We have quite a few techniques to choose from or combine! See some of our most popular pages:

• Super Cropping – A simple technique to bigger yields
• Simplest Guide to Growing Short & Bushy Marijuana Plants
• LST (Low Stress Training) – Training your plants can easily double your harvest!
• Or check out our page on the controversial defoliation technique

Even More Ways to Increase Cannabis Yields

1. Increase Light Intensity (plus choose right light for desired yields & possibly add CO2)
2. Manipulate How Plants Grow (a free way to yield more bud indoors)
3. Provide Right Nutrients (low Nitrogen in the flowering stage, and remember sometimes less is more!)
4. Control Growing Environment (let the growing environment work for you)
5. Harvest Plants Properly (most importantly, don’t harvest early!)
6. Lastly, it’s important to remember that the strain has a major effect on yields!

Two small cannabis plants can yield several ounces of premium weed!

“How can I grow weed privately?”

Read guide on growing weed indoors without anyone knowing. But remember the most important factors to stealth growing: “No tell, no smell, no sell.” Never tell anyone, not even your best friend, that you’re growing. Be on top of preventing smells, and never ever sell cannabis. Breaking one of those 3 principles is how 99% of growers get found out!

“What if my plants get sick?”

The most common issue a grower runs into is a pH imbalance. Barring that, your marijuana plants likely either have a nutrient deficiency, heat or light stress, or are being attacked by some sort of marijuana mold, pest or bug. Whether you call it weed, cannabis, sinsemilla, skunk, pot, marijuana, or something else, the plant known as Cannabis Sativa is a hardy weed in the wild and can actually be easy to grow indoors at home when you know what to do.

Growing Medical Marijuana

“Medical marijuana” has become a household name. The body of evidence for medical marijuana in the treatment of cancer and other illnesses is growing every day. And for those who need medical marijuana, growing weed indoors is the perfect way to ensure a safe, regular supply of buds, for cheap.

In fact, when you grow weed indoors for personal use, you often end up with way too much. If you catch the growing bug like I did, and if you start enjoying the process of tending your cannabis garden just for the sake of gardening, you’re going to have to find a way to press, cook, freeze, and concentrate all your extra buds. 🙂

As you probably know, both medical marijuana and recreational cannabis have been decriminalized or legalized in many places around the world and weed is becoming legal in more places every day! Yet there still aren’t many simple indoor “how to grow weed” guides for beginners (even for those who legally grow, such as medical marijuana users and those who live in places where marijuana is legalized for personal use).

If so, I know how you feel. It can be hard to weed out all the bad information on the internet and find well-researched, free tips or instructions on how to grow your own cannabis. That’s why Grow Weed Easy.com aims to be a simple online resource that explains from start to finish what you need to do when growing cannabis so you can learn how to grow cannabis with great yields and potent buds, even if you only have a small grow space like a closet or even a computer case.

We’ve grown cannabis out of closets and have gotten ounces of buds and you can too. Grow Weed Easy.com covers many popular cannabis cultivation topics, including:

• A comparison between different cannabis grow lights including experience-based information about LED grow lights
• A page that teaches you the basics of how to grow weed
• Detailed how-to weed growing tutorials
• How to start growing weed tomorrow  (simplest cannabis growing guide!)
• Grow 4 oz with a 100W LED <– An Easy Way to Start Growing!
• Our famous grow guide that teaches you how to grow weed using bubbleponics (hydro).

Start Growing Weed Today!

Grow Weed Easy is run by a panel of experienced cannabis growers, including the founders Nebula Haze and Sirius Fourside, who originally teamed together to bring you GrowWeedEasy.com. Due to the demand for more marijuana growing information, we’ve also started an inbox magazine all about how to grow weed, with additional tutorials, tips, and tactics sent to you each week. Simply sign up to start getting free expert growing articles delivered to you! All the information available at GrowWeedEasy.com is completely free and we regularly update the site and make new additions.

Looking for a growing book?

If you are interested in doing a bit of reading or would like to know more about the science behind marijuana hydroponics or horticulture, I strongly recommend viewing our page of Marijuana Grow Book Reviews. Read reviews of marijuana grow books. We would love to hear about your experiences with growing cannabis. Whether you are a pro grower already or are just starting your first plant, we have learned so much from our readers both beginners and masters! If you have any suggestions, comments, concerns, or just want to ask some questions about your marijuana grow, please contact us!

Happy Growing!
Nebula Haze & Sirius Fourside

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The post Grow Weed Easy – Learn How to Grow Cannabis Tutorials appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Emergency Resources for Sick Seedlings!

If you’ve got unhappy cannabis seedlings, I’ve got the solutions. Sometimes the hardest part of growing cannabis is just germinating the seeds and caring for seedlings. If you’ve never gardened or planted a seed before, you may have to learn everything from scratch. And with expensive and hard-to-get marijuana seeds, there’s a lot of pressure to get things right the first time.

This tutorial will help you with some of the most common seedling problems, so you can quickly get the fix. Make it so that your first few weeks go without a hitch.

Note: At GrowWeedEasy.com, we have resources for almost every common growing problem, so check out our cannabis plant doctor or use the search bar on the side of the website if you have a specific problem.

My Seedling Problem is…

If your seedlings are sick and you’re still investigating the problem, move your grow light up and don’t attempt to train your plants or do anything new until they’re better! If you avoid stressing them out any further, they often recover much more quickly.

Germination Problems

• Soil or Coco: Fail-Proof Germination Guide
• Hydroponics or DWC: Fail-Proof Germination Guide
• Are My Seeds Good? (How to Know if Seeds Are Viable)
• Seedling Growing Upside Down with Root Up

Germination problems? We’ve got you covered!

Yellow Leaves

• Why do seedlings turn yellow? – There are many reasons you might see a yellowing leaf on young plants, but this tutorial breaks down the most common.

This yellow seedling was overwatered. Seedlings don’t like “wet feet”. Too much water is the most common reason you’ll see yellow leaves on seedlings.

Curling or Clawing Leaves

• Clawing or curling leaves – Like yellow leaves, there are actually a few different triggers for clawing or curling, including watering practices and nutrient levels.

In this case, the clawed leaves are also from too much water. Small seedlings in big pots need careful watering until they’re drinking more.

Bad soil will sabotage you! Thick muddy soil prevents seedling roots from getting enough oxygen

Seedling is Wilting or Droopy

If you notice your plant is droopy all the time (even in the mornings right after lights turn on, when plants are at their perkiest), it usually means there’s something going on at the roots. The seedling might be getting too much or too little water at a time, possibly watering too often or infrequently, or its roots could be sick/damaged. The other major cause of drooping and wilting is high or low temperatures, and occasionally really high or low humidity.

• Overwatering vs Underwatering: How do you know?
• Root problems (coco or soil)
• Root Rot (hydro)
• Heat Stress
• Temperature Tutorial
• Humidity Tutorial

This seedling was given too much water for many days. Notice the green algae growing on top of the soil.

Underwatered seedling – When there’s not enough water at the roots, leaves are dark green, possibly clawed or droopy, and growth is slow

In hydroponics, when you see a droopy seedling it usually means there’s something bad happening at the roots

Burnt Leaf Tips

• Usually caused by nutrient burn (too much nutrients)
• Sometimes caused by a deficiency such as a copper deficiency
• Also caused by incorrect pH or overwatering/underwatering

Seedling with a single burnt leaf due to slight underwatering. You can tell it’s not nutrient burn because it’s only affecting a single leaf (nutrient burn tends to affect leaves all over the plant).

Why Are Stems Purple or Red?

• Could just be the genetics
• Can be triggered by cool temperatures or too-bright light
• Sometimes it’s a sign of stress or a deficiency
• Learn whether your red or purple stems are normal

Purple stems are normal for some strains, though they also appear on plants that are cold, stressed or experiencing a nutrient deficiency. Sometimes bright light triggers purple stems, like a tan.

This seedling appears healthy. If you don’t see any other symptoms, you probably don’t need to worry about it. But keep a close eye. If a seedling with purple stems also grows slow or has markings on the leaves, it means something is wrong. Investigate!

Why is My Seedling So Tall?

• If your seedling keeps growing taller and taller without a lot of leaves, it usually means it needs more light.

Tall, “leggy” seedlings need more light. They’re doing their best to stretch towards the nearest light source! Quick aside: Avoid germinating multiple seedlings in the same pot. It can be difficult to separate them.

Why Are Leaves Curling?

• This is often caused by heat stress or overwatering
• Sometimes too much light or very dry air can trigger it, too

These wavy leaves are the result of too much heat, and possibly slight overwatering

Another example of heat damage plus overwatering (the same triggers can be expressed in multiple ways)

More heat damage

Bugs or Pests

• Learn how to avoid Fungus Gnats (most common bug for new growers)
• Other Common Cannabis Pests

Learn more about fungus gnats

Something Else?

• Diagnose Your Sick Plant!

Re-vegging (pictured below) and other plant problems can be hard to diagnose. Use our free plant doctor tool to check your symptoms.

Bonus Articles!

• Common Seedling Problems and Mistakes
• 7 Common New Grower Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
• How to Test Cannabis Seedlings for Sex and Future Potency

​What to Focus on During Your Seedling’s First Month

• Perfect Environment – humidity, temperature, airflow, CO2/fresh air, reflective walls, etc
• Enough Light – If your seedlings are growing tall it means that they want more light! Remember, in the flowering stage your yields will be directly related to how much light your buds are getting!
• Not Too Much of Light – Too much light can hurt your plants even in cool temperatures! Seedlings are more sensitive than adult plants, so be careful not to overload them with light too quickly! If you think your seedlings may be stressed from too high levels of light, move your grow light up a few inches and see if they improve.
• Watering properly (one of the hardest parts for a lot of new growers!) – How to Water Plants Perfectly Every Time. I promise it gets easier!
• Not Too Much Love – Seedlings need some breathing room! (i.e. avoid overwatering, touching/messing with plants too much, giving too high levels of nutrients or supplements, etc.). They want you to love them and watch out for them, but they also need to get work done 🙂
• Start Thinking About Plant Sex – For several weeks after germination, a plant’s sex is hidden and has little effect on how your plants grow. However, if you are not familiar with the difference between male and female plants (only female plants make buds), now is the perfect time to read up!

The post Cannabis Seedling Help Handbook appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

We’ve written quite a bit about how mold and bud rot can infest your cannabis plants, but we thought it might be helpful to provide a list of some mold-resistant strains! Good genetics help protect weed plants from bud rot and other molds.

No more marijuana mold or bud rot!

List of Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains

Strains for Indoors

Although nothing can fix bad growing practices, some strains are more resilient towards mold than others. If you’re growing in a smaller space, or if you live in a part of the world that gets very humid, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain!

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable for being grown indoors:

• Purple Ghost Candy – This plant grew bigger than expected, but it was able to stay close to the super powerful LED grow light without any issues, so its bigness only increased the yields. This strain never seems to suffer from bud rot or mold, despite the big yields, even when it attacks other plants right next to it. The buds are also extremely potent. Highly recommended as a mold-resistant cannabis strain.

• Moby Dick – Easy to grow, mold-resistant, and potent. Smells a bit like peppermint but has also been described as having an old-school skunky flavor similar to popular sativa buds from the early 90s. Great yields, too!

• Sweet Tooth -This strain is a personal favorite. It has a sweet flavor/taste that is reminiscent of chocolate, and the effects are powerful. As a bonus, it is mold-resistant from its Hawaiian roots

• Glookies strain is resistant to mold and poor environmental conditions. This one survived excessive heat and high humidity to produce great yields with strong bud effects.

Other popular indoor mold-resistant strains:

• Berry Bomb by Bomb Seeds
• Chocolate Haze by Royal Queen Seeds
• Chocolope x Kush
• Crystal by Seed Supreme
• Green Poison by Sweet Seeds
• Gorilla Zkittlez by Barney’s Farm
• Silver Bubble by Reserva Privada

Strains For Outdoors

Although definitely not foolproof, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain if you live in a humid environment, or if you’re an outdoor grower who gets cool wet conditions early in the fall!

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable for being grown outdoors:

• Blue Venom – A G13 Labs strain that is resistant to mold and produces beautiful bud quality.

• Holland’s Hope – Designed specifically for outdoor growing (and not really suited to indoors), this strain is ready to harvest in late September or early October in the northern hemisphere. This strain has been bred for bud appearance, potency, yields, and overall weather resistance. Plants get 3-7 feet tall on average and produce a “knock-down” and “euphoric stone” effect that’s been honed for over three decades, with unique effects that are difficult to find with indoor strains. The buds are very mold-resistant and tend to get very fat. Buds often take on purple hues as they approach harvest.

• Frisian Dew – A popular strain because about half of the plants grow buds that turn an incredible, vibrant purple (the other half of plants grow green buds but still beautiful and the effects are just as good). This strain tends to grow the most purple buds if plants in the flowering stage are exposed to very sunny weather with many hours of direct sunlight each day. Another way to help increase the overall amount of purple is to ensure plants get cool temperatures at night. Essentially, a big fluctuation in temperature between day and night enhances purpling. This strain is very well suited to outdoor growing, even in northern climates, and is especially resistant to mold.

The plant in the middle with the dark purple buds is Frisian Dew.

Other popular outdoor mold-resistant strains:

• Hindu Kush by Seed Supreme
• Jack’s Dream by Greenhouse Seed Co.
• Midnight Mass by Heavyweight Seeds
• Midnight Kush by G13 Labs
• Pineapple Express by G13 Labs
• Thai Chi by Ace Seeds

Mold-Resistant Auto-Flowering Strains

The following auto-flowering strains are specifically listed as being mold-resistant. Learn more about autoflowering strains (auto-flowering plants automatically go from germination to harvest in 2-3 months).

• Blueberry Kush Auto by Nirvana
• Diesel Auto by G13 Labs
• Glue Gelato Auto by Barney’s Farm
• LSD Auto by Barney’s Farm <— Extra potent mold-resistant auto-flowering strain!
• Purple Punch Auto by Barney’s Farm
• White Widow Auto by Pyramid Seeds
• Zkittlez Auto by Barney’s Farm

Purple Punch Auto by Barney’s Farm performs well outdoors and produces beautiful purple buds

More resources to help you in your fight against mold!

• White Powdery Mildew
• How to Stop & Prevent Bud Rot
• Avoid 3 Main Types of Cannabis Mold
• Create the Perfect Growing Environment

The post Best Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains in 2024 appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Got bugs on your cannabis plants? A pest infestation can be a grower’s worst nightmare, but luckily there are ways to get rid of bugs without harming your plants or affecting your buds. This list of all-natural remedies will get rid of many different types of bugs without harmful chemicals, and some of these pesticides are even organic!

These pest remedies can be used up until the day before harvest!

Prevention

I know, I know, this seems really basic, but the best way to prevent an infestation is to either prevent it altogether or catch it as soon as possible. Even if you can completely get rid of a pest, it’s better to not have them be living, breeding, and making waste on your plants. Here are a few tips to help keep your grow area a bug-free zone:

• Check leaves at least weekly for signs of stress or bug bites. If possible, it’s much better to do a quick check every day. Check underneath the leaves and all over the plant. Make sure none of your buds are becoming discolored.
• Don’t go straight from outdoors to your grow room. You may accidentally track in bugs from your garden. Even healthy-looking plants near your house can be hiding a secret army of aphids or spider mites. Just be careful what goes in the grow room!
• Even if you trust the grower, treat new clones with a wide-spectrum but natural pesticide like the ones listed below just in case the clone is infected (this is one of the most common ways growers get bugs in their grow!). Even 2 or 3 eggs on your clone is all it takes to start a new infestation! Some growers might not even realize they have bugs so it’s up to you to make sure they don’t get in the grow room!

Table of Contents

• Remove or Spray Off as Many Bugs as Possible
• Neem Oil
• Insecticidal Soaps
• Spinosad (not for commercial growers)
• Horticultural Oils
• Caterpillar “BT” Spray
• Alcohol & Water
• Diatomaceous Earth
• Floating Row Covers
• Traps
• Beneficial Insects
• Prevention: The Best Option

Safe, All-Natural Pesticides

Remove or Spray Off as Many Bugs as Possible

I know this might seem obvious to some people, but I didn’t really think about this until someone told me!

If your plant is heavily infested, it’s a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible even before you treat them with something. Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many bugs off as you can with a sprayer.

It’s also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected, especially if you see lots of eggs under the leaves. If you have some sort of fungus or mold, carefully remove the infected areas without touching any healthy plant tissue.

If possible, spray off as many bugs as you can, and remove heavily infected leaves. Whatever treatment you follow up with will now be more effective!

Neem Oil

Neem Oil is safe, organic and effective at many bugs as well as molds and fungus. Generally, I’ve found that when you mix it with water as directed, it doesn’t have a crazy strong smell (reminds me of garlic and sort of earthy, though a bit unpleasant). As far as safety, you can use this product up until the day before harvest. But, as with any pesticide, always try to avoid letting any get on your buds because it may end up affecting their final taste/smell if it doesn’t have enough time to dissipate first before harvest. If your plants are infested with bugs bad enough that the buds themselves need to be treated, it’s often time to harvest anyway!

That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bad bugs and mold, but won’t hurt humans, animals or most “good” bugs like bees, ladybugs, predatory wasps, etc. If you want to save money by getting pure neem oil and adding water, you will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly since neem oil and water can separate easily.

Use right before the lights go out (or the sun goes down) so it doesn’t burn your leaves.

Important note about Neem Oil:

Neem Oil is one of the most widely used, and most effective ways of combating pests in the grow room. When we surveyed our readers, it’s used by growers 8 times more than the next most popular pesticide, natural or not.

With that being said, there are people who have reported adverse reactions to buds grown using Neem Oil as well as Neem Oil itself. Additionally, some people can be allergic to Neem Oil, which can become a real problem when they smoke buds grown with Neem. Make sure you’re using Neem Oil safely by following a few simple guidelines:

• Don’t use Neem Oil if you’re growing weed for someone other than yourself.
• Don’t use Neem Oil if you’re growing weed for a medical patient.
• Although this might seem obvious, don’t use Neem Oil if you’re allergic to it.
• If you’re not sure, try a different pesticide that doesn’t contain Neem Oil, like Plant Therapy.

If you use a Neem Oil concentrate to mix with water, make sure to use a sprayer to evenly coat all the leaves.

Neem Oil is effective against:

• Aphids
• Barnacles
• Broad mites & Russet mites
• Caterpillars, cabbage loopers & inchworms
• Crickets
• Fungus Gnats
• Fungus/Mold (White Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, Leaf Septoria etc.)
• Grasshoppers
• Leafhoppers
• Leaf Miners
• Mealybugs
• Scales
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• Whiteflies

Insecticidal soaps

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps weaken the outer shell of bugs but are safe for humans and don’t leave much of a residue.

With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds so it doesn’t affect the taste/smell!

Get insecticidal soap with a sprayer attached.

Or save money by getting the Insecticidal soap concentrate to mix with water and use your own sprayer.

Insecticidal soap is effective against:

• Aphids
• Barnacles
• Broad mites & Russet mites
• Crickets
• Grasshoppers
• Leafhoppers
• Mealy bugs
• Scales
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• Whiteflies
• White Powdery Mildew

Spinosad

Spinosad Products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. You can apply Spinosad products directly to kill bugs on contact and it should be sprayed liberally anywhere you see bugs and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of the harsher insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals, and humans!

WARNING: Commercial growers click here!

Spinosad Products are effective against:

• Aphids
• Crickets
• Grasshoppers
• Caterpillars, cabbage loopers & inchworms
• Leafhoppers
• Leaf Miners
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• Whiteflies

Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills bugs via ingestion or contact by affecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to many pests, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects and spiders.

Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be wasted.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying them with spinosad products.

Spinosad and Honeybees: Spinosad is super toxic to pests and less toxic to beneficial insects. However, it can still be toxic to honey bees if they come into contact with it within 3 hours of spraying. After about 3 hours, the Spinosad dries and any bees are safe (even with residue). You can use Spinosad and not harm a single bee by following two rules:

1. Only use Spinosad for indoor grows. If you’re an indoor grower, this should be pretty easy.
2. If you’re an outdoor grower, only spray at night. Bees are only active during the day, so if you spray at night the Spinosad will have time to dry and your bee neighbors can go on pollinating the following morning!
3. Don’t use Spinosad if you’re a commercial grower

Horticultural Oils

Many plants have evolved their own defenses to keep bugs from eating them. Horticultural oils harness the power of these plants by refining their oils and using them to go on the offense against pests. In fact, many natural pesticides use the oils of various plants as their main ingredients. Another bonus of horticultural oils is that they don’t leave a film on your plants. However, this means they don’t last a very long time (around 8 hours), so you will want to either apply daily or combine with other options. You will need a mister to apply these treatments.

Examples of Pesticides with Horticultural Oils:

• Lost Coast’s Plant Therapy (Contains multiple things on this list: horticultural oils, soap, alcohol. Combo!)
• Essentria IC3
• Peppermint Oil (Use heavily diluted with water; the above options both contain peppermint oil)

Horticultural oils are effective against:

• Aphids
• Barnacles
• Broad mites & Russet mites
• Caterpillars, cabbage loopers & inchworms
• Crickets
• Fungus Gnats
• Mealybugs
• Scales
• Spider mites
• Whiteflies

Caterpillar “BT” Spray (safe biological insecticide)

Caterpillar BT Spray is a biological insecticide contains the bacillus thuringiensis (BT) bacteria which kills larva and prevents caterpillars from being able to eat. Make sure to get something labeled for caterpillars, as there is a different type of BT that’s good for killing mosquitos but isn’t as effective on caterpillars.

Caterpillar BT Spray is effective against:

• Caterpillars, cabbage loopers & inchworms
• Leaf Miners (some species)
• Moth

It doesn’t work against every type of bug, but this is one of the most effective ways to kill caterpillars and won’t hurt most beneficial insects. As a bonus, it can also kill some other cannabis pests like worms and moths.

If you see caterpillar damage, try a “BT” spray. It’s very safe and makes it so caterpillars can’t eat.

Apply a caterpillar BT spray as soon as you see leaf damage, caterpillars or caterpillar poop. BT sprays work best on small caterpillars that are actively eating your leaves. Repeat every week for as long as you’re still seeing caterpillars, though you can give BT more often if there’s a heavy infestation. Make sure to thoroughly mist both the tops and bottoms of leaves and apply again after a heavy rain (since that will wash the BT away).

Recommended: Monterey BT Spray
(though any caterpillar BT product will work!)

Or save some money in the long run by getting the concentrated version with a mister.

Since BT is harmless to humans, you can use BT products up to the day of harvest! One thing to keep in mind is BT spray almost instantly stops caterpillars from being able to eat, but doesn’t kill them directly. So, although you may see the caterpillars alive and apparently unharmed after spraying, the BT is still doing its dirty work because they’re slowly starving to death.

Alcohol & Water

Make a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part rubbing alcohol and spray plant once a week until bugs are gone. With an alcohol-water mixture, the goal is to spray the bugs directly to kill them. Since all the alcohol will evaporate into the air within minutes, it won’t give your plant a protective “coating” like soaps or oils.

This will likely not cure an infestation, but it’s very effective at bringing numbers down quickly!

Rubbing alcohol mixed with 9 parts water is most effective against:

• Mealybugs
• Spider mites

Diatomaceous Earth 

Diatomaceous Earth is basically fossil dust which you sprinkle on the top of your soil, and anywhere else in your room (window sills, doorways, etc.). This powder-like substance is harmless to mammals and plants but is incredibly sharp at the microscopic level. Therefore, it will tear and dehydrate bugs on physical contact. This will not get rid of an infestation, but can help prevent, control and slow things down when used effectively!

Diatomaceous Earth is effective against:

• Almost every type of bug is at least deterred, and it’s particularly effective against smaller soft-bodies insects and larva (including Fungus Gnats)

Floating Row Covers – Physical Barrier

These may not be the best choice for all cannabis growers, but these are very cheap and effective against many types of hard-to-stop bugs because it physically prevents them from getting to your plants, while still letting light into your plants. You can also water your plants through the netting. These are sometimes used to make mini “greenhouses” on the plants, or some growers will just drape them over the plant as they’re so light and airy they don’t really bother the plant.

• Caterpillars, cabbage loopers & inchworms
• Crickets
• Grasshoppers
• Leafhoppers
• Leaf Miners
• Slugs/Snails

These are much easier to use and are more effective with smaller plants, as it becomes difficult to fully cover larger plants. However, for young plants, these can be great! They also protect your plant from wind and some harsh conditions.

Floating row covers look like thin netting or mesh and provide a physical barrier against pests

Traps – Physically Capture Bugs

There are certain types of traps that physically capture bugs instead of kill them.

• Crickets – Cricket bait & Cricket traps
• Fungus gnats – Yellow sticky cards
• Slugs & snails – Beer trap: mix flour with some stale beer and use it to fill a shallow container. Place in garden with the rim 1 or 2 cm above the ground so that slugs and snails can climb in. Substitute beer for wine, sugar water, juice, or water mixed with yeast. BE WARNED, the trap will fill up quickly so come back often to empty.

Beneficial Insects

Beneficial insects may eat large numbers of bugs and are welcome guests in the garden. Many of these can be ordered online so you can release thousands into your garden at once. These natural enemies may not be enough wipe out pests, but can definitely help cut down on an infestation!

Add These “Good” Insects for the Garden

Ladybugs for:

• Aphids
• Barnacles
• Leafhoppers
• Mealy bugs
• Moth eggs
• Scales
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• Whiteflies

Parasitic wasps for:

• Caterpillars
• Leaf Miners

Predatory mites for:

• Broad mites & Russet mites
• Spider mites

The Best Option: Prevention

This subject has already been brought up, but I have to do it one more time!

There are many cases where a grower gets bugs through no fault of his or her own. You can take every precaution and still end up with pests infesting your grow room. There is no amount of diligence that can completely stop pests from getting into grow rooms; their lives depend on eating your plants!

However, a good helping of prevention can stop most pest infestations. If you stick to a few guidelines, you can dramatically reduce the number of pests that end up getting into your grow room. In fact, we’ve spoken to many growers who have grown for years and have yet to deal with a significant pest problem. Let’s go through a few ways you can make sure bugs never get the opportunity to live with your cannabis plants!

Fan blowing over the plants and top of growing medium

Believe it or not, air circulation is one of the best ways to let pests know they’re not welcome. Pesticides are great at exterminating pests that get in the front door and settle down, but a fan makes it so they don’t even get the chance. Many pests – like fungus gnats and spider mites – need to land on plants and have them be still so they can mate and lay eggs. A fan makes it so the environment is too windy for them to successfully multiply. Many types of bugs don’t like the breeze and can’t mate in windy conditions. Some bugs need wet topsoil to survive which can be prevented with a windy environment and good watering practices. When choosing an outdoor spot to grow, it’s a good idea to pick a breezy spot if possible.

Warning: Avoid using a fan if only a single plant has been infected by bugs or if you suspect you have active mold. If the problem is still localized, a fan can spread spores or bugs/eggs to your other plants. Before turning on a fan, remove the plant or at least all the affected parts first.

If you’ve got one of the problems listed here, a strong breeze blowing over the plant can help! Fans are best at prevention, though they can still be a good tool in your arsenal after the plant has already been infected.

Air circulation is effective against:

• Bud Rot
• Fungus gnats
• Spider mites
• White Powdery Mildew

Picture diagnosed on the GrowWeedEasy.com Instagram account

Avoid going directly into your grow room from outside 

White Powdery Mildew, Fungus Gnats, Aphids, Moths, Whiteflies, and Spider Mites are just a few pests that you can accidentally track into your grow room from outside. Just as a test, if you have any plants outside, do a quick check to see what bugs you can find. Even the most cared-for gardens and lawns will turn up with something. Roses are great carriers for spider mites and especially aphids, and I’ve had a bougainvillea bush that was a moth factory! Even if your outside garden has pests, you can keep them out of your indoor garden by just changing clothes before seeing your weed plants. You can even just stop in a place other than your indoor garden for a few minutes so that any pests will hopefully be left in a place where they can’t do any damage.

Being careful when coming back after being outdoors is most effective against:

• Aphids
• Fungus gnats
• Spider mites
• White Powdery Mildew
• Whiteflies

List of Cannabis Pests, Bugs & Viruses

Noooo, spider mites!!!!

The post All-Natural Pesticides – Safe Up to Harvest! appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Mold. Most people who grow cannabis aren’t thinking about mold at all! But there are 3 main types of mold that often attack unsuspecting cannabis growers…

• White Powdery Mildew
• Bud Rot
• Fuzzy White Mold (Regular Mold)

There’s so many other things besides mold to worry about during your grow, like nutrient deficiencies, plant training, bugs, increasing yields, increasing THC, etc.

But unfortunately, mold has a way of creeping into your life when you least expect it!

It’s possible to get mold at any point at any point in your plant’s life, but even if you make it through your entire grow without mold, the last 2 weeks before harvest (and the first few weeks after harvest) are actually the times when you’re most likely to get attacked!

This is extra frustrating because mold makes buds completely unsafe to smoke, and it most often gets you after you’ve already dedicated months and months of work into your grow. If you’re not careful mold can decimate your entire crop!

Yuck!!!!! NEVER smoke moldy buds! If buds look fuzzy white, brown, black or gray, don’t smoke them!

Even if you’ve had several successful grows, there may be things you’re accidentally doing which can increase your chances of mold. Certain strains are much more susceptible to mold throughout their lives, so good practices will go a long way to making sure mold never gets you no matter what strain you grow!

Luckily, mold is really easy to prevent, and you have a lot of tools to help you combat mold so you never have to worry about it again! If you cover your bases, you can prevent this gross affliction from ever ruining your crops!

Where does mold come from?

All mold comes from spores. But how do the spores get to your plants? They can get tracked in from anywhere at any time, and there’s always some amount of mold spores in the air pretty much everywhere you go. Although it is a really great idea to keep your grow room as sterile and clean as possible, it’s still possible for mold spores to get in no matter what you do.

In fact, NASA has recently started growing various plants in space, and they were shocked to find out that their flowers also started molding in too-humid conditions! Even NASA didn’t know that mold would be able to make it all the way to the International Space Station.

NASA astronaut Steve Swanson showing off the red, blue and green LED lights of the “Veggie” plant growth system on May 7, 2014. Credits: NASA (Do you want to grow cannabis with LEDs?)

The point is that mold spores are probably already in your grow room or around your plants in tiny amounts, but luckily they just can’t grow without the right conditions. Since it’s easy to create an environment to prevent mold from ever taking hold of your plants, you can be sure that any spores will never “blossom” on your plants.

3 Times You Are Most Likely to See Mold

1.) When plants are big and leafy

White Powdery Mildew is a type of mold that attacks when your plants are growing in hot, humid conditions without a lot of airflow; WPM needs stagnant air to grow. It looks a little bit like someone dropped some flour on your leaves, buds or stems.

WPM also grows on stems

A little WPM on your leaves is a bad sign, but if WPM gets out of control it can destroy buds and even kill a whole plant!

Learn more about White Powdery Mildew

WPM can attack your plants and buds at any point in their life, even when they are small, but it’s most common when you have big leafy plants because they reduce airflow and increase humidity. This is most especially true in small spaces like a grow tent. The plant on the right is so leafy that no light is actually making it through the top of the plant. With so much vegetation in such a small space, you’re setting up a great place for WPM to strike, especially if it’s hot.

The more vegetation a plant has, the more water it is releasing into the air. Think about how much water you’re giving to your plants. A great deal of that water is ultimately ending up in the air. Since big plants drink a lot, they’re converting lots of water into high humidity levels. It’s the same reason why a rainforest is always humid and misty!

But big plants in small spaces also means there’s less airflow, possibly creating pockets of stagnant air, creating the perfect conditions for WPM to grow.

Smart fan placement will go a long way towards preventing WPM. WPM simply can’t grow in a breezy environment. If there is a slight breeze over all your leaves (all the leaves are rustling gently, but not waving around), not only are you preventing WPM, but as an added bonus your plants love it and will actually grow faster too!

But even with lots of fans, too-high humidity is your enemy. A good exhaust system with a strong exhaust fan will vent out all the hot, humid air to be replaced with cooler, drier air from outside the grow space. And with very leafy plants like above (where the entire middle and bottom half are not getting any light at all) a little bit of defoliation (removing leaves) can go a long way towards increasing airflow throughout the inside of the plant while reducing the humidity. And in a pinch, a dehumidifier can also be used to help keep humidity down.

The last thing you can do is make sure the temperature in your grow space never goes above 80°F (27°C) and especially not over 85°F (30°C) because that’s when WPM starts going crazy, and mold can cover a whole plant in just a few days!
2.) Late Flowering Stage

Within the last few weeks before harvest, buds become very susceptible to mold, both the white fuzzy kind and the dark brown or gray dusty kind. The bigger and denser your buds, the easier it is for mold to take hold.

Mold can come in many gross colors, including white, yellow, brown, gray or almost sooty black

It doesn’t matter what type of mold it is, the types of mold that attack buds from the inside all have the same basic effects and can be prevented by the same tactics. With inner bud mold (often just called “bud rot”) the outside of the bud may appear normal at first, but all the leaves will die suddenly. The bud itself will also become discolored soon after mold has taken hold.

All the other colas look healthy, what’s wrong with that single cola with yellow leaves?

Although lots of things can cause yellow leaves, it’s curious when only one cola is showing symptoms while all the other ones look healthy. It’s important to immediately investigate anything weird or new going on with your plants. Upon closer inspection, the bud still looks mostly normal from the outside, but what’s that?

When a cannabis plant has been hit by bud rot, it easily “opens up” at the spot to reveal the mold underneath. Any leaves touching the mold are loose and falling out.

If buds are attacked by bud rot, it’s a really good idea to immediately cut down and trash all the affected buds, then cut your losses and harvest the plant immediately. An entire bud can be taken over literally overnight, especially if another bud had mold because it means there are tons of spores in the tent. Don’t wait to flush your plants, don’t wait until the weekend, harvest your buds as soon as possible or you may wake up the next morning to find you’ve lost more buds!

Learn more about cannabis bud rot.

3.) During Drying & Curing

I know, it’s been a lot of work with harvesting and trimming, but don’t let your guard down during drying and curing. You have made it this far, you have put in this much work and time, don’t give up on your buds now!

How you dry and cure your buds is a huge part of what separates good bud from bad bud, and can completely change how it looks and tastes, as well as its potency and “smoothness.”

If I had to say what it’s been like in my experience, I’d say when it comes to quality, how you grow your bud makes up 50% of its final quality, 25% is strain, and the drying and curing process makes up the other 25%.

And in addition to increasing bud quality, drying and curing the right way prevents mold. The drying/curing process is a tricky time where it can be easy to create conditions where mold can grow overnight, so it’s not a good idea to skip steps. But the most important thing you can do is check on your buds regularly so that you can react quickly if there’s a problem!

How to dry & cure your cannabis buds perfectly every time.

How to Prevent Mold So It Never Happens to You!

1. Indoors
2. Outdoors

Preventing Mold Indoors

• The best way to control humidity is to design your space right from the beginning. The most important thing when it comes to keeping humidity from getting too high is to set up an efficient exhaust system.

• Set up fans inside the grow space making sure there’s air blowing both under and directly over your plants, preventing your undercarriage and fattest colas from ever sitting in stagnant air.
• Be aware of overall plant mass and leaf mass, as every leaf on your plant is constantly adding more moisture to the air. The more leaves your plant has, the more water it drinks, and all that water is being released as vapor into your grow space!
• Get a prominent temperature/humidity monitor and don’t forget to check it when you check your plants.

• Inspect plants and especially fat buds regularly. If you see that leaves coming out of your buds are suddenly dying and curling in while the rest of the plant looks good, that is one major sign your buds might have mold.

More Tips:

• If you get moldy buds, if at all possible try to harvest the whole plant ASAP. You already have mold spores in your space, and there were obviously good conditions for mold, so you want to save everything you can and possibly prevent more yield loss.
• Don’t let your plants live in an environment that is too cool or too hot. Certain types of mold (like white powdery mildew) do better in hot, stagnant conditions at 80°F (27°C) and hotter. Most other types of mold (fuzzy white mold, bud rot, etc) grow best in cool conditions around 68°F (20°C). If possible, try to keep plants at a comfortable room temperature around 75°F (24°C) in situations where it’s humid.
• Defoliation – You may possibly want to remove some leaves from your plants if your plants are extra big and leafy. If the bottom of your grow space isn’t getting any light, than chances are no air is getting through the plant either. In that case it can be a good idea to clean up extra leaves and buds towards the bottom of the plant. This also gives you a chance to remove buds that are sparse and not developing, so the plant can focus more energy to the top buds which actually get access to light. The less vegetative matter in the space, the better as far as reducing humidity.But it’s important not to over-defoliate your plant, as this can dramatically reduce your yields. Only defoliate a very leafy plant, and focus on removing leaves that either don’t get any light (towards the bottom and middle of the plant) as well as big fan leaves that are blocking a lot of bud sites from getting direct sunlight.Leaves power the growth of the plant, and in the second half of the flowering stage your plant won’t be growing any more leaves. So avoid stripping your plant during the time when it’s not growing new leaves and you’re still weeks from harvest. Removing too many leaves can reduce your yields and increase the chances of your buds getting discolored. That’s because leaves provide a certain amount of protection to your buds in that they’ll absorb damage first (like nutrient burn, light burn and deficiencies). When there aren’t any leaves, damage shows up on the buds first!

Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains for Indoors

Although nothing can fix bad growing practices, some strains are more resilient towards mold than others. If you’re growing in a smaller space, or if you live in a part of the world that gets very humid, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain!

Note: Strains with shorter flowering periods tend to be less likely to get mold since the buds don’t spend as much time in the flowering stage.

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable to being grown indoors:

• Moby Dick – Very easy to grow, very mold resistant, VERY potent. Smells a bit like peppermint but has also been described as having an old-school skunky flavor similar to popular sativa buds from the early 90’s. Great yields, too!

• Sweet Tooth – In California where I live, this strain is very popular at dispensaries and often goes for very high prices! Well now you can grow it at home, too! It has a sweet flavor/taste that is reminiscent of chocolate, and the effects are powerful. As a bonus it is mold-resistant from its Hawaiian roots!

Preventing Mold Outdoors

Shake wet or dewy plants in the morning, and especially after a rain if you can. Preventing the buds from staying wet goes a long way towards preventing mold or bud rot. Letting buds stay wet and dewy makes it a lot easier for bud mold to take hold!

Plant in breezy spot, with lots of sunlight. Preferably it should get direct sunlight in the morning to help dry off any dew or rain from the night.

Although you are always at the mercy of nature, do the best you can to protect your plants from wet and cold. Cool, wet conditions are the time when mold is most likely to hit your buds. That’s why fall can be so dangerous – buds are fat and dense, making them a perfect home for mold.

If the weather is especially cool and wet, and especially if even one plant actually gets bud rot, harvest your buds immediately! If it’s happened to one it will usually spread to the others quickly. It’s better to harvest a little early than lose your whole harvest!

Mold-Resistant Cannabis Strains for Outdoors

Although definitely not foolproof, some strains are more resistant than others to mold. If you live in a humid environment, or if you’re an outdoor grower who gets cool wet conditions early in the fall, it can’t hurt to get a more mold-resistant strain!

Here are some strains that are mold-resistant and suitable to being grown outdoors

• Frisian Dew – A popular strain because about half of the plants grow buds that turn an incredible, vibrant purple (the other half of plants grow green buds but still beautiful and the effects are just as good). This strain is very well suited to outdoor growing, even in northern climates, and is especially resistant to mold.

• Jamaican Pearl – This fruity-smelling strain grows very well outdoors, and is not only mold resistant but it also has great yields. It’s known to produce a unique cerebral in-your-head effect that lasts a long time and won’t put you to sleep. Harvest Jamaican Pearl buds before the trichomes start turning amber for the best effects!

Example of a dense Jamaican Pearl bud

Jump to….

7 Rules to Stealthy Growing

Diagnose Your Sick Plant

How to Train Your Plants for Bigger Yields

Tips for Growing Top-Shelf Buds

The post Avoid 3 Main Types of Cannabis Mold appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

In addition to the search bar, this link guide helps you navigate through the Grow Weed Easy website. Learn about growing topics you won’t find anywhere else! This is a shortened list of all our cannabis growing tutorials, as the website has over 500 articles and tutorials!

Full List of EVERYTHING on GWE  ← Over 500 Articles & Growing Tutorials!

Start Here – Beginner Grow Guides

• Complete Beginner’s Guide
• How do I start growing my own weed indoors? (get help choosing your setup)
• How to Grow Weed in 10 Steps
• Simplest Cannabis Grow Guide Ever!
• How Long Does It Take to Grow Weed? (Marijuana Growth Timeline)
• 3 Steps from Beginner to Legendary Grower
• Complete New Grower’s Shopping List

Cannabis Life Stages

• Germination
• Vegetative Stage (Getting Bigger)
• Flowering Stage (Making Buds)
• Harvest

Choosing…

• Best Type of Nutrients
• Choosing the Best Grow Light
• Soil vs Hydro
• How Many Plants Should I Grow?
• What Part of the House Should I Grow In?
• What Setup Should I Get?
• Best Strains for Beginners
• Where to Get Seeds (including the U.S.)

Common New Grower Topics

• How Much Will Electricity Cost?
• Stealth Growing: How NOT to Get Caught Growing Weed
• What Equipment Do I Need?
• Germinate Your Seeds
• 7 Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me When I First Started Growing Weed
• How to Save Money When Growing Weed
• How to Store Weed Properly (so it never loses smell or potency!)
• Ask Questions & Get Answers From Real Growers! (In Our Free Growing Community)
• Cannabis Grower’s Glossary

Problems & Symptoms

• Cannabis Problems Guide
  • How to Help Yellow Seedlings
  • How to Fix Yellow Cannabis Leaves
  • How to Fix Curling and Clawing Cannabis Leaves
  • What Causes Dry or Crispy Leaves?
  • What Causes Brown Spots on Cannabis Leaves?
  • What Causes Bananas (“Nanners”) on Cannabis Buds?
  • Is This Nutrient Burn on My Marijuana Plant?
  • What causes red stems in cannabis plants?
• Diagnose Your Sick Plant
• Bugs & Other Cannabis Pests
• How to Prevent Nutrient Deficiencies
  • Which Nutrient Deficiencies are Caused by pH? (picture guide)
  • How to Stop Flowering Stage Nutrient Deficiencies
• 7 Reasons Why Cannabis Plants Grow Slow
• 5-Step Remedy That Fixes 99% of Grow Problems
• All-Natural Pesticides – Safe Up to Harvest!

Plant Training (Indoor Tricks for Bigger Yields)

• Simplest Plant Training Guide Ever!
• How to Control Height of Indoor Cannabis Plants
• Complete Plant Training Guide
• Breakdown of Techniques​
  • Low Stress Training (LST) Tutorial
  • Topping vs FIMing Tutorial
  • LBH’s Famous ScrOG Tutorial
  • Supercropping: Magic Technique to Control Cannabis Plant Height
  • Sea of Green (SoG) Tutorial
  • 12-12 from Seed – Flowering Plants Early
  • Nebula’s Manifold Tutorial
  • How to Manifold Clones
  • Nebula’s Bud-Based Defoliation Tutorial
  • Alternate Defoliation Tutorial ​
  • What is Re-Vegging / Monstercropping?
• How Can I Train an Auto-Flowering Plant?
• 7 Unfortunate Plant Training Mistakes

Grow Mediums

• What’s the Best Growing Medium?
• Soil vs Coco vs Hydro
• Basic Soil Guide
• Organic Soil Compost Guide (Super Soil) – Just Add Water!
• Coco Coir Guide
  • Coco Coir: The Most Flexible Cannabis Grow Medium
• Hydro/DWC/Bubbleponics Guide
• “True” Organic Growing vs Just Using Organic Nutrients
• Can You Use Miracle-Gro?

Nutrients

• Which Nutrients Are Best For Growing Cannabis?
• Soil Nutrients
• Coco Coir Nutrients
• Hydroponic Nutrients

Grow Lights

• 5 Best LED Grow Lights 2025 (Yields, Speed, & Bud Quality)
• Compare Types of Cannabis Grow Lights
  • Fluorescents (T5s) – Good for Seedlings Only (not powerful enough to produce potent buds or big yields)
  • CFLs (Spiral Bulbs) – Not Recommended (LEDs are much better)
  • LED Grow Lights – Recommended for Most Home Growers
  • MH/HPS Grow Lights – Good Alternative to LEDs, But Run Much Hotter
  • CMH / LEC Grow Lights – Good Alternative to LEDs, But Run Much Hotter
  • Plasma / Magnetic Induction Grow Lights – Not Recommended (poor cannabis growth)
• How Does Light Spectrum Affect Marijuana Plants?
• How Far Away Do I Keep My Grow Lights?
• You Can Actually Give Plants Too Much Light?!
• Grow Light Upgrade Guide: Yields & Potency Explained
• Cannabis Grow Lights: What’s the Best Size?

Best LED Grow Light Articles

• 5 Best LED Grow Lights 2025 (Yields, Speed, & Bud Quality)
• LED Grow Lights: Too Much or Not Enough Light?
• LED Grow Journal: Mars Hydro TSL-2000W vs Spider Farmer SF-2000
• LEC vs LED Grow Lights: Side-by-Side Cannabis Grow Journal
• Nebula’s Auto-Flowering Grow Journal (Topping vs Natural) – cannabis plants are grown under LED grow lights

Environment

• Create the Perfect Growing Environment
  • Temperature Tutorial
  • 5 Secrets to Heat Control
  • Control Humidity for Better Buds
  • How to Use Reflective Walls to Increase Yields Indoors
  • How to Make Plants Grow Faster with CO2
• Where’s the Best Place in the House to Grow Your Plants?
• How to Control Odors
• How to Set Up an Exhaust
• How to Set Up a Grow Tent for Better Yields (and Stealth)

Plant Care Tutorials

• Cloning
  • How to clone weed in a cup of water (easy!)
  • How to make cannabis clones with an aero cloner
• Intro to Plant Training for Bigger Yields Indoors
• How Often to Water Plants
  • The Easiest Way to Water Plants & Remove Runoff
• How (and When) to Transplant Cannabis
• Male vs Female Plants
• When to Harvest?
• Drying & Curing

How to Improve…

• Yields
• Bud Quality
  • 7 Environment Effects on Bud Quality
  • The Secret to Excellent Bud Quality
• THC Levels
• CBD Levels
• Smell/Taste
• Density
• Bud Color (How to Grow Pink or Purple Buds)
• Glitter (Make Buds Sparkle with More Trichomes)
• Bonus: What Determines Yields?

Buying Seeds

• Where to Get Seeds
• How to Find the Right Strain
• What are “Feminized” Seeds?
• Which Breeders to Trust?
• Photoperiod vs Auto-Flowering Cannabis Strains
• Bag Seed vs Hype Seed: Is it worth it to buy cannabis seeds?

Recommended Strains

• Best Autoflowering Cannabis Strains for Yields & Potency
• List of Sugar-Dusted Strains (Heavy Trichome Genetics)
• 10 Cold-Resistant Cannabis Strains
• 14 Heat-Resistant Cannabis Strains
• Which cannabis strains stay short? (Best strains for small spaces)

Auto-Flowering Strains

• Nebula’s Guide to Cannabis Auto-Flowering Strains (Photoperiod vs Auto-Flowering)
• Should I “Top” or Train an Auto-Flowering Plant?
• What’s the best light schedule for auto-flowering strains?
• Nebula’s Auto-Flowering Grow Journal (Topping vs Natural)

Edibles

• Decarboxylation: How to Decarb Your Weed (crucial step for just about every edible recipe)
• Best Weed Butter Recipe
  • How to Make Great Brownies with Weed Butter
• Canna Caps
• How to Make Cannabis Gummies (Weed Gummy Bears)
• How to Make Cannabis Tinctures
• How to Make Hash Oil (aka Cannabis Extract Oil, Rick Simpson Oil, or RSO)

Extracts (No Solvents Used in Any Recipe)

• Solventless Extraction Showdown – Bubble Hash vs. Dry-Ice Hash!
• Dry Ice Hash (Made with Dry Ice)
• How to Make Bubble Hash (Made with Ice Water)
• How To Make Your Own Homemade Rosin (dabs)

And Lots More!

• How Long Does it Take to Grow Weed?
• Vegetative vs Flowering Stage (Long Days vs Long Nights)
• Germination & Seedling Mistakes
• Simple Guide to Plant Training
• What’s the Best Pot / Container?
• Perpetual Harvest
• What Determines Yields?
• 5 Time-Savers for Busy Growers
• Breeding Techniques
• 7 Gift Ideas for Cannabis Growers
• Grow Journals
• How long can I store nutrient water?
• What is High-Frequency Fertigation?
• Where is it legal to grow weed in the USA?
• See EVERYTHING on the Site!

Safety & Preparation

• Fire Protection in the Grow Room
• Electrical Safety Tips & Tricks
• Prepare Yourself for Growing Emergencies
• Stealth Growing Indoors: How to NOT get Caught Growing Weed

Just for Fun

• Weird or What? Cannabis Mutations & More!
• Creatures on Cannabis (Cute Photo Gallery)
• 10 Gift Ideas for Cannabis Growers

Submit Pics

• Submit Trophy Pictures of your Plants!
• How to Take Better Plant Pics
• How to Fix Yellow HPS Pics

Want More?

• Complete List of EVERYTHING on GWE  ← Full List (Over 500 articles & growing!)

Thanks for visiting! We hope our website helps you find the growing tutorials you were looking for. We’ve written hundreds of growing marijuana articles and unfortunately we can’t fit them all on this page, so we encourage you to use the search bar on the right side (or top of the page for mobile users) to search for articles you don’t see here.

Happy growing!
Nebula & Sirius

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The most common reason mold starts growing is if you are overwatering your plants. When growing in soil, you want to make sure the top inch of soil dries out before you water your plant again. If you water more often, you make a better place for mold to grow and you can also overwater your plant.

If you already have mold growing, take a spoon and scrape off all the mold, being careful to not let it touch any new parts of the soil if possible. Then lightly mist the whole area with a mixture of half vinegar and half water. You don't want to get the soil wet, just mist the top part of the soil with this solution. The vinegar can hurt your plant's new roots so be careful to use as little as possible. You may want to repeat the vinegar-water mistings once a day for two or three days. This should kill any mold that remained after you scraped the visible parts off.

If you've already been hit by mold once, you want to make sure that you're careful that there's not too much humidity in your grow area and that you're not overwatering your plants. You can control the mold by controlling the amount of available moisture. If you let the first inch of soil completely dry in between waterings, than that alone will probably control any more mold outbreaks.

If you continually are having problems with mold, you may want to try repotting the plant, and this time make sure that you are growing in sterilized soil. You may also want to consider a soil-less growth medium such as perlite or coco coir, which are much less likely to have problems with mold.

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Unfortunately, common cannabis bugs and other garden pests can totally mess up your marijuana harvest.

Caterpillars are one of the most common cannabis pests when growing weed outdoors. Use BT Caterpillar spray (works best if you apply with a mister) as a safe and effective way to eradicate them for good.

This page aims to be a comprehensive resource on the different types of bugs / pests / mold that can affect your marijuana crop, along with tips for preventing and solving each problem.

Pests that can affect your marijuana plants include aphids, fungus gnats, thrips, green flies, black flies, mosaic virus, spider mites, caterpillars, inchworms, whiteflies, white powdery mildew / white powdery mold, stem rot, and even mammals such as deer or cats!

If you want a list of safe, all-natural pesticides that can get rid of most of the pests on this list, check out this page: https://www.growweedeasy.com/safe-cannabis-pesticides

• Aphids
• Barnacles / Scale Insects
• Broad Mites
• Bud Rot or Mold
• Caterpillars & Inchworms
• Crickets
• Fourlined plant bug
• Fungus Gnats
• Grasshoppers
• Leafhoppers
• Leaf Miners
• Leaf Septoria / Yellow Leaf Spot
• Mealybugs
• Planthoppers
• Root Rot
• Russet Mites
• Slugs / Snails
• Spider Mites
• Stink Bugs
• Thrips
• Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV)
• Whiteflies / White fly
• White Powdery Mold

It’s time to fight back against cannabis bugs, mold and pests!

Quick Tip! Whenever you spray plants with anything, make sure to get the undersides of the leaves too, as this is where many pests like to hang out! A sprayer / mister is also really helpful for spraying leaves.

Get a mister to evenly spray cannabis plants with an insecticide.

Aphids

Aphids live under leaves and have different forms depending on their stage of life. They are skinny and white when young and fat and plump as adults. Often green, but sometimes other colors like red or black.

Barnacles / Scale Insects

These bugs that look like barnacles and stick to the plant on stems and underneath leaves

Broad Mites

These mites are so small you will likely never see them even under a magnifier. However, you can tell your plant has been infected because your new leaves will be blistered, twisted and glossy. The overall plant will also be growing poorly and if it’s flowering the buds may turn brown. Broad mites are often mistaken for other problems like nutrient deficiencies, heat stress or pH problems.

Bud Rot or Mold

When bud rot strikes, certain buds may start looking sickly overnight, with leaves turning yellow and/or bud becoming discolored. When opened up the inside of the bud is dead or moldy.

Caterpillars, Inchworms & Cabbage Loopers

Caterpillars and worms eat holes in leaves, which is typically the main symptom most growers see.

Caterpillars leave droppings that look like black specks. If you see this, you know you’ve got caterpillars.

Crickets

“Regular” crickets will munch on your leaves while “mole crickets” can tunnel under your plants and disturb their roots!

“Regular” Crickets

Mole Cricket – these can tunnel under your cannabis plants like moles

Fourlined Plant Bugs

This is the cannabis leaf damage from a four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus). You can see the adult version of the bug on the lower left. Both the adults and their nymphs make spots in cannabis leaves that usually appear in clusters.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats look like tiny dark flies. They hang around soil that stays wet for long periods of time, and their worm-like larvae crawl around in the wet top soil. Plants start getting sick if a gnat infestation gets out of control.

Grasshoppers

You’ve probably seen these before, but these seemingly harmless garden creatures will happily eat your cannabis leaves!

Leafhoppers

These bugs come in almost every color and form, but they all cause “leafhopper burn” on your plants if their numbers get out of control.

Leafhopper cannabis damage (“hopper burn”)

Leaf Miners

Leaf miners are larva that actually live inside your leaves and tunnel through them to eat!

Leaf Septoria / Yellow Leaf Spot

This fungus causes round yellow or brown spots, with symptoms often starting on lower parts of the plant

Mealybugs

These tiny white bugs look “hairy” and are found crawling on leaves and buds.

Planthoppers

Each species looks quite a bit different as an adult. Some look like pretty leaves. As youngsters, they create white and fuzzy patches that look like cotton on their butts and on your plants. Planthoppers suck the life out of cannabis plants if they start a colony.

The following are two examples of adult planthoppers (can take many adult forms, though symptoms are the same)

Root Rot

Root rot is a common problem in hydroponic systems though overwatered plants in containers often display similar symptoms. Plants with root rot wilt and leaves may become discolored. In the reservoir the roots turn brown, smelly and slimy.

Russet Mites (or Hemp Russet Mites)

Russet mites are so small you can only see them with a magnifier unless there are thousands of them infesting your plant. They live in the crevices of leaves, stems, or buds.

Slugs / Snails

Slugs and snails usually come out at night, leaving holes in leaves with scalloped edges from their individual bite marks. They also leave slime trails on leaves and on the ground.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are often caught from another cannabis grow room, and their bites leave small white speckles all over your leaves. The bugs are so small they can be hard to see, though the best place to look is underneath leaves.

You may see webbing when enough spider mites are living on the cannabis plant.

Stink Bugs

Various species of stink bug have been known to attack cannabis plants. They lay distinctive patches of white eggs, which hatch into small beetle-like insects and eventually grow into stink bugs.

Thrips

Thrips leave irregular bronze or silver marks that may look like “dried spit” or tiny snail trails. It is also commonly mistaken for a cannabis nutrient deficiency, environmental stress, or other problem.

Young thrips are tiny and look like fat, squirmy worms living on your cannabis leaves.

Tobacco Mosaic Virus

It’s not known whether mosaic virus has jumped from tobacco to cannabis plants, but in this article, I’ll share what I’ve learned so far…

Whiteflies/ White fly

Whiteflies look like tiny white moths and hang out under your cannabis leaves.

White Powdery Mold

WPM leaves a white powdery substance that looks like flour or powder on leaves and stems

Don’t see your bug here? Send us a pic!

Jump to…

Diagnose Your Sick Plant!

7 Steps to Cure 99% of Marijuana Growing Problems

Beginner’s Guide to Growing Weed

How to Improve Your Yields

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