A common cannabis pest in the United States is the four-lined plant bug (also commonly written “fourlined plant bug” and officially Poecilocapsus lineatus). The four-lined plant bug leaves spotting injuries where it sucks out all the juices from inside the hemp or cannabis leaf. Each spot on your cannabis leaves were essentially the meal of a four-lined-plant bug.

Example of a cannabis leaf injury from four-lined plant bug on hemp. The bug itself is on the lower left of the cannabis leaf.

Here’s a closeup of the cannabis pest culprit: Fourlined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus), in its full glory.

Example of a nymph (baby) – Four-lined plant bug nymphs are reddish and active. If you see these, it means the adults are coming next.

More nymph forms: Early instar nymph of fourlined plant bug, Poecilocapsus lineatus (Fabricius), with feeding damage.

Late instar nymph of fourlined plant bug, Poecilocapsus lineatus (Fabricius), with feeding damage.

What to know about Poecilocapsus lineatus (fourlined plant bug) on cannabis plants

• Clusters of spots on the leaves – These spots kind of look like the leaf was burned. The leaves don’t have holes because the bugs suck out the sap. That’s why there is no green left wherever they feed.
• Nymphs (babies) are reddish and active – Look out for these in the spring as they’re a sign that adult four-lined plant bugs are coming. These also munch on plants and leave similar damage on your cannabis leaves as the adult fourlined plant bugs.
• Adults are black and yellow – If you see them, chances are the were enjoying your plants as nymphs and are still actively feeding on your cannabis plants right now.
• Most active in late Spring and early Summer – These overwinter as eggs on the stems of host plants.

This picture has often been misdiagnosed as Leafhoppers but it is actually the cannabis leaf damage from a four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus). They make spots in cannabis leaves that usually appear in clusters.

Fourlined plant bugs actually suck out the sap from cannabis leaves, which leaves pale spots that turn brown or bronze over time. Unlike caterpillars, a fourlined plant bug won’t actually put holes in the marijuana plant’s leaves, just spots.

When the injuries are new, it makes the leaves transparent where the bug sucked out the juices. But after a while, the old injuries look raised, almost like brown scabs forming over the damaged parts.

See more pictures of the four-lined plant bug on other types of plants besides cannabis.

More info from the University of Florida:

• Color: Fourlined plant bug adults are identified by four distinct black lines against a yellow-to-green background color. The head is orange, with prominent dark reddish-brown eyes. Male and female adults look very similar, although the female is slightly larger and broader, especially in the abdomen.
• Size: They are 7-7.5 mm long, and 3.5 mm wide.
• Reproduction: About a week after adults emerge, the insects mate and females begin ovipositing clusters of eggs. Females live significantly longer than males, so late-season populations primarily consist of females. In general, adults are present for approximately one month.

Solution: How to Get Rid of Four-Lined Plant Bugs on Cannabis Plants

If you can prevent fourlined plant bugs from attacking plants with Integrated Pest Management, that’s ideal. But what do you do to get rid of them if four-lined plant  bugs are currently eating your cannabis plants?

Prevention

• Stay alert – always be scouting for signs of these bugs, their damage, or their nymphs.
• Floating row covers – a physical barrier between your plants and bugs like fourlined leaf bugs, grasshoppers, caterpillars, etc.
• Insecticidal soaps – pre-treat plants with insecticidal soap the moment you see any signs of these bugs or their nymphs, or in the spring if you know they’ll be coming where you live
• Remove weeds – Get rid of any weeds near the cannabis plants, as these bugs like to hide.
• Plant trap crop (mint) – Some growers recommend planting mint nearby, as mint attracts the fourlined plant bugs compared to other plants. But this isn’t the best long-term solution because you don’t want to create a thriving ecosystem for them either.

Get rid of as many as you can first

• Vacuum or spray plants with water to spray the bugs off your plants. Some growers recommend drowning the bugs in water.
• Remove eggs – Discard any leaves with eggs.

Plant predators – These eat the fourlined plant bugs but don’t hurt your cannabis plants

• Big eyed bugs
• Damsel bugs
• Pirate bugs
• Jumping spiders

Insecticides – kill them directly

• Insecticidal soap
• Neem oil
• Other horticultural oils

Adult fourlined plant bug, Poecilocapsus lineatus (Fabricius), detailing the head structure and mouthparts.

Sources for more information

• Fourlined plant bugs | UMN Extension – This source provides some quick facts about four-lined plant bugs, their life cycle, their damage, and their management options.
• Fourlined Plant Bug | NC State Extension Publications – This source describes the appearance, biology, damage, and control of four-lined plant bugs in detail.
• The Fourlined Plant Bug – FineGardening – This source lists some of the plants that four-lined plant bugs find palatable and suggests some cultural and chemical control methods.

The post Four-lined plant bug appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Planthoppers can attack and infest cannabis, leaving a unique cotton-like growth while they suck the life out of your plants! Planthoppers also spread plant diseases, so you want them away from your plants as soon as possible.

Example of leaf damage from planthoppers. (Thanks to George4green for several of the awesome planthopper pics)

Melanoliarus planthopper on a cannabis leaf (Source: Whitney Cranshaw)

Often one of the main symptoms is a white fuzzy growth that is commonly mistaken for mold or white powdery mildew. However, it is actually a secretion from the planthopper. The bugs themselves can look very different depending on the stage of life, I’ll show pictures below!

Planthoppers can leave secretions that resemble cotton or fuzzy white mold. They generally walk slowly, but can also jump surprisingly far (which is likely how they got their name).

Their nymphs (baby planthoppers) may have beedy red eyes, and I’ve heard a grower desribe them as looking like a hermit crab

Their larva also produce the white waxy secretions. This repells water and offers protection.

Adult planthoppers may be more familiar to you

There are several different species of planthopper that all look a little different (they’re usually green, though some are pink or other colors), but the general shape/form is often the same – they usually look like they’re trying to mimic a leaf or some other part of a plant.

Sometimes the form is a bit different

Solution: How to Get Rid of Planthoppers on Cannabis​

Planthoppers aren’t too serious, but a lot of them will start to suck the life out of your marijuana. You don’t want that! If it’s just a few bugs you may not notice any symptoms but if your plants start getting infested with plant hoppers you’ll notice your plants start turning sickly and yellow.

1.) Check regularly for signs of planthoppers, especially when it’s dry

The best way to prevent a planthopper infestation (or any bug infestation really) is to catch them as soon as possible. Planthoppers will suck sap moisture out of cannabis leaves most often when it’s dry, because they get thirsty, so that’s a good time to check.

Make sure to look under leaves and all around the plants, as they will try to hide from you, often gliding across the leaf to the other side so you can’t see it.

2.) Spinosad (not for commercial growers)

Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill planthoppers on contact and should be sprayed liberally anywhere you see planthoppers and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of the more harsh insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals and humans!

WARNING: Commercial growers click here!

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills planthoppers via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to planthoppers, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects, bug predators and spiders.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying them with spinosad products.

3.) Insecticidal soaps

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against planthoppers. They weaken the outer shell of planthoppers but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue which could kill beneficial bugs in your garden.

With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!

Natria is a proven insecticidal soap

4.) ​Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care. That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mold, including planthoppers. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

5.) Beneficial Insects

Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, parasitic wasps, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of planthoppers and are welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybugs to release around your plants, the bad part is they do tend to fly away in just a day or two.

Ladybugs are good to have around the garden. Lady bugs eat planthoppers and other annoying cannabis pests!

6.) Floating row covers

These may not be the best choice for all cannabis growers, but these are very cheap and effective against planthoppers because it physically prevents them from getting to your plants, while still letting light in to your plants. You can also water your plants through the netting. These are sometimes used to make mini “green houses” on the plants, or some grower will just drap them over the plant as they’re so light and airy they don’t really bother the plant.

However, these are much easier to use and are more effective with smaller plants, as it becomes difficult to fully cover larger plants. However, for young plants these can be great! They also protect your plant from wind and some harsh conditions.

Floating row covers look like thin netting or mesh

7.) Pyrethrin

Pyrethrin-based insecticides are not very toxic for humans, and therefore they’re commonly recommended for vegetable gardens. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly, since pyrethrin concentrate and water can separate easily.

Pyrethrin products break down quickly, over the course of just a day or two. The major problem with them is they are very toxic to bees. Although cannabis plants generally don’t attract a lot of bees, please use this as a last resort, and also try to use it right after the sun goes down because bees sleep at night. This lets it start to break down before they wake up.

Use pyrethrin products as the sun goes down to help reduce possible harm to bees.

A popular example is Bonide 857 Pyrethrin Spray Concentrate. Use 3 tablespoons of concentrate per gallon of water and apply carefully with a mister.

The post Planthoppers appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Overall growth of the marijuana plant may be stunted. With a manganese deficiency, the yellowing will begin at the base of the leaves and move outwards towards the tips.

Solution for Manganese Deficiency in Cannabis

Your plant may also exhibit signs of a manganese deficiency if the pH is too high, or if the plant is getting too much iron.

Learn how to manage your pH when growing cannabis.

Please note: After a manganese deficiency is cleared up, the problem (brown spots and yellowing leaves) will stop spreading to other growth usually within a week. Please note that leaves which have been damaged by a manganese deficiency will probably not recover or turn green, so you want to pay attention to other growth for signs of recovery.

• In soil, manganese is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 7.0 pH range (some growers recommend keeping the pH slightly lower, from 6.0 – 6.5, if you suspect a manganese deficiency in particular)
• In hydro, manganese is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 – 6.0 pH range (in hydro, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 – 6.5, but manganese specifically tends to be best absorbed below 6.0)

If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a manganese deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients that includes manganese. This will remove any extra iron or nutrient salts that may be affected the uptake of manganese, it will help restore pH to the proper levels, and will supply the plant with any missing nutrients.

You are looking to avoid higher pH ranges, as this is where manganese deficiencies are most likely to occur.

If you cannot get rid of your manganese deficiency, please consult our 7-Step Cure to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems

The post Manganese Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Cannabis Copper Deficiency Symptoms

• Leaves turn dark with blue or purple undertones
• Tips and edges of leaves turn bright yellow or white
• Shiny or metallic sheen on leaves
• Leaves may feel stiff and start turning under
• Tends to affect leaves directly under the light
• Buds do not ripen, or grow very slowly

The pale tips of a cannabis copper deficiency look a little different from nutrient burn, which may start out with slighly yellow tips, but soon makes tips appear brown or burnt.

This is what the yellow leaf tips of a cannabis copper deficiency looks like. The most telling feature of a copper deficiency is that the rest of the leaf darkens and takes on a blue or purple cast which makes the yellow tips look bright in comparison. The leaves also often appear shiny and may feel stiff.

Some strains are prone to copper deficiencies in the flowering stage, which can create dark purple or reddish hues in the leaves directly under the lights. The following picture shows a Blue Widow plant where all the leaves under the light turned purple due to too-bright light and incorrect pH triggering a copper deficiency.

A cannabis copper deficiency tends to affect the leaves directly under the light. If your grow light is close it may help to move lights a little further away.

A big problem with a major copper deficiency if it happens early in the flowering stage, is the affected leaves are not good at photosynthesis and won’t provide nearly as much energy for the buds as they would if they were green. It’s important to keep leaves near the buds healthy during the majority of the flowering stage to help ensure you get the best yields possible. While it’s normal for leaves to start dying in the last week or two before harvest, you should react quickly if you’re seeing unhealthy leaves earlier than that!

It is very unlikely that there is no copper available in your water or soil, so usually a copper deficiency in cannabis is caused by a pH problem at the roots that is restricting access to nutrients.

Copper toxicity (too much copper) in cannabis plants is rare, though a severe case of too much copper can cause a quick death to the plant.

Solution For Cannabis Copper Deficiency

1.) Adjust pH to Correct Range

The most common reason growers will see copper marijuana deficiencies is when the pH at the roots is not in the correct range. Copper tends to get locked at certain pH levels, and is better absorbed by the plant in a slightly acidic root environment.

If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a copper deficiency due to incorrect pH, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients. This will remove any nutrient salts that may be affected the uptake of copper and help restore pH to the proper levels..

Watch to make sure that the problem starts to clear up within a couple of days. Old growth may not recover, but new growth should be healthy.

• In soil, copper is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 7.0 pH range
• In hydro, copper is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 – 6.5 pH range

Learn how to manage your pH for growing cannabis.

2.) Give the Right Nutrients

The truth is, most cannabis growers don’t need to add more copper in response to a copper deficiency!

In fact, most growers have actually already given plenty of copper to their cannabis plants since it is found abundantly in most tap water. If you’re using quality soil or cannabis-friendly nutrients, you probably don’t need to worry about adding more copper. In general, copper deficiencies are more likely to appear when a grower is using heavily filtered or reverse osmisis (RO) water to feed plants since any copper has been removed, but pH is a much more common reason growers see copper deficiencies in their cannabis plants.

3.) Take Good Care of the Roots

Copper deficiencies can show up with the plant is having root problems or if the plant is overwatered, even if the pH is right and the copper is there. Proper watering practices help plants grow healthy and avoid a host of problems!

4.) Watch for Leaf Recovery

After going through all the above steps, watch to make sure that the copper deficiency starts to clear up within a few days to a week or so. The damaged leaves may not completely recover all their green, but you know you’re in the clear when you stop seeing symptoms appearing on new leaves.

If you cannot get rid of a cannabis copper deficiency, please consult our 7-Step Cure to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems with chart!

The post Copper Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Table of Contents

Introduction to Root Rot (With Tons of Pictures!)

What Triggers Root Rot?

Solution: Get Rid of Root Rot Forever!

Cannabis Root Rot – Slimy, brown, twisted or unhealthy roots are caused by unwanted pathogens in your hydroponic tank!

The marijuana plant on the left is healthy, and the plant on the right has root rot. The curled, drooping, unhealthy leaves are the result of the plant not being able to get enough oxygen through the roots. Root rot symptoms often look like a soil plant that has been severely over or under-watered.

Go Straight to the Solutions for Root Rot!

An example of what cannabis root rot can look like “under the hood”. Every infection looks a little different, but brown roots are usually the main symptom. It may affect all or just parts of the roots, and the sick sections usually become slimy or mushy and start twisting together.

Healthy Cannabis Roots Are White or Cream Colored!

Check out a quick Youtube video showing what a cannabis seedling with root rot looks like.

Root rot can be caused by several different organisms including types of bacteria, fungi, algae and parasitic oomycotes. Although the symptoms are similar between different types, they don’t always look exactly the same. However, growers generally refer to all types of unhealthy root browning as just “root rot.”

Root Rot causes droopiness and other symptoms similar to over or under-watering

The Most Common Triggers for Root Rot Are Light Leaks, Heat & Lack of Oxygen in the Water

Because cannabis root rot can be caused by different pathogens, a solution that solves the symptoms of root rot for one grower may not necessarily work for another grower. What’s attacking your roots in California might be completely different from what’s attacking the roots of a grower in Australia. That being said, there are tools to fight against root rot no matter what kind you have!

The brown tinge on these young roots is the first sign of root rot.

Some varieties of root rot mostly affect the roots below the surface of the water while the roots located above the waterline stay white and healthy. This phenomenon is part of why it’s often recommended that hydro growers maintain at least a small amount of air gap under the net pots. Oxygen-rich moist environments (including that misty air gap) make it very difficult for root pathogens to grow.

Sometimes even the roots above the waterline appear brown. The white strands you see in this picture are actually new roots coming out of the old unhealthy stuff. When new white roots are growing, it’s a sign the plant may be getting better! Even after roots have recovered, you may see the brown for a while until it’s completely covered by new white roots again.

Brown, infected roots often appear twisted

The twisting/bunching together is the result of infection. Healthy roots have individual “strands” that tend to stay separated even when they’re all floating together in a reservoir.

A mass of root rot. The grower believes that the water level in the reservoir was too high

Cannabis roots with root rot sometimes look mushy or slimy and can almost look like they’re covered in snot 🙁

This case of root rot was caused by a brown algae bloom. Brown or green algae is especially common in hot temperatures or when there are light leaks!

Important: The Following Roots Are Stained from Nutrients – They Are NOT Brown from Root Rot

Nutrient-stained roots are not slimy or smelly and all the roots are evenly dyed the same color. You’ll be able to see each individual “strand” on healthy cannabis roots, as they won’t be twisted together. You also won’t see leaf symptoms or wilting on the plant itself.

The first sign of root rot is usually wilting or drooping, though sometimes you won’t have any symptoms at first. Root rot often strikes immediately after disturbing the roots or completing a reservoir change, especially with young plants. It’s a good idea to avoid disturbing young seedling roots when possible! This gives roots time to build up a biofilm that protects them against root rot.

Learn how to care for hydroponic cannabis seedlings!

This cannabis plant was completely healthy the day before, but started looking weak after being transferred from one hydroponic reservoir to a different one. The thin, light colored plastic of the reservoir may have been letting light through, making the reservoir a haven for root rot. Additionally, the temperature was about 85°F (30°C) in the grow space!

Cannabis root rot can cause leaf symptoms that can look like almost anything: cannabis leaves get burnt edges or tips; yellow / bronze / brown spots or stripes; nutrient deficiencies; clawing and curled edges; and other unusual leaf symptoms.

Curling and other typical signs of root problems are often present

Root rot can cause curling leaves and brown or burnt patches

Sometimes you’ll have a plant with root rot that looks completely healthy other than the roots. Don’t ignore this problem as you will likely start getting symptoms!

What Causes Root Rot in the First Place?

The plant ailment we think of as ‘Root Rot’ is actually a bunch of similar symptoms caused by many different types of organisms. Since these organisms all cause the same problem – gross, brown roots – we group them together. In addition to these harmful organisms all causing similar symptoms, they also show up for the same reasons.

So what causes root rot? If you’re growing in soil or coco coir, there’s one main cause: stagnant water at the roots. If your plants are sitting in old water that’s getting light (from the sun or otherwise), their roots are connected to a breeding ground for unwelcome organisms.

Root rot is a major problem to look out for in DWC many factors can cause it to show up. The most common are:

• Heat – A warm reservoir makes it easier for bacteria to reproduce. In fact, keeping a cool reservoir makes for an environment in which harmful bacteria/fungi/etc. just can’t survive.
• Light leaks – Light in your reservoir equates to a population boom for some of the smaller, unwanted populations living.
• Lack of oxygen in the water – When you remove the air and agitation from your reservoir water, it’s party time! A gross, smelly, sad party.
• Agitating young roots – Young roots need time to build up their defenses. Moving them not only weakens them, but it potentially exposes them to new pathogens.
• Decaying matter in the reservoir – Old bits of dead leaves can be the start of something bad. Make sure you fish any plant matter out of your reservoir when you see it. Except for your roots…leave those in there.

Your cannabis plant has started drooping, leaves are getting sick, and roots are brown, twisted, smelly and/or slimy. These are all signs you have cannabis root rot 🙁

When a plant is wilting or drooping, whether it is in soil, coco or hydro, it is almost always a sign that’s something is going on at the roots.

The wilting is often soon followed by other symptoms to the leaves, especially burning, brown spots, nutrient deficiencies, spotting, and other unusual leaf symptoms.

Root rot can cause a wide range of symptoms, because without the roots the plant is shutting down!

Plants with root rot often start drinking less water. If you notice symptoms in your cannabis plant, make sure to take precautions to stop root rot from getting worse!

Some brown roots may eventually turn white again after the root rot is gone, but it’s important to note that damage is permanent on the leaves. Brown leaves will never turn green again. You need to watch the roots and the new leaf growth for signs of root rot recovery.

Root rot mostly affects marijuana plants in hydroponic systems, but roots can also get pathogens as a result of over watering your plants in soil or other medium. Basically, anytime the roots are sitting in wet conditions for too long without any oxygen, they are at risk of developing root rot.

• Cannabis plants with root rot almost always appear overwatered or droopy (sometimes plants wilt overnight!)
• Brown, slimy or smelly roots
• Plant leaves often start turning yellow or white
• Leaves may start dying and falling off rapidly
• Oftentimes you’ll see what appears to be a random mix of nutrient deficiencies on the leaves – this is due to the fact that the plant can’t absorb nutrients properly at the roots even if they’re there
• Plants may drink much less water than usual

Now that you know what root rot looks like and how to get it, it’s time for cannabis root rot solutions!

Solution: What to Do About Marijuana Root Rot, Algae Growth & Slime in the Reservoir

It can be tough to get rid of root rot and many growers feel it’s easier to just scrap the plant and start over. However, if you’re growing in the same spot you’re likely to get it again unless you find a true solution, and there are proven techniques that will cure your plant of root rot problems!

In order to get rid of root rot successfully, you need to take a two-pronged approach. You will need to…

1. Treat the plant’s root directly with something that will help protect them against root rot
2. Change the plant’s environment so that root rot no longer has a good place to grow.

Go through the below list and make sure you’re covering all your bases to get rid of root rot permanently and prevent a re-occurrence. It’s also important to note that affected roots will likely never recover, just like how discolored leaves on the plant will never recover. What you’re looking for is new, healthy white root growth coming out of the old sick roots.

Learn how to prevent and treat cannabis root rot…

1.) Add Beneficial Root Bacteria – Crucial!

Some people (like me) add beneficial bacteria to their water to help prevent and treat root-related plant diseases and help make nutrients available to the plant. Some of the formulas available are Hydroguard, VooDoo Juice, Great White, and Rooters. Most of these can be used with both hydro and soil grows.

Hydroguard

I personally recommend Hydroguard because I’ve used it successfully to treat root rot in hydro, and I’ve also seen it work for many other hydroponic cannabis growers, too! It’s pretty inexpensive, and concentrated enough that a single small bottle can last throughout your grow.

The “secret sauce” in Hydroguard is a specific type of bacteria called Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. It survives in hydroponic reservoirs better than other types of Bacillus bacteria and fights many root ailments including different types of fungi, bacteria, and oomycotes. It not only gets rid of and prevents root rot, but there’s some evidence Bacillus a. may actually help lower salt concentration in the plant tissue itself!

Great White Root Powder

Great White is another root supplement that works by giving your plant roots lots of good stuff to help it be more resistant to root rot. Some growers (myself included) have tried Great White without seeing any root rot recovery. However, other growers have had great results with this supplement! For example, in our growing forum, just like Hydroguard, some hydroponic growers have been able to cure their root rot simply by adding Great White to their reservoir.

It all depends on exactly which organism is growing in your tank! What was growing in mine might not be the same as what’s growing in yours, so when it comes to “good bacteria” supplements it can’t hurt to try more than one if the first one doesn’t work.

A small sample of Great White doesn’t cost much, so if you’re still struggling with root rot after trying everything else, it’s worth giving it a try to see if it works for you!

SM-90

Note: SM-90 has been temporarily discontinued. See this article for more info.

2.) Lots of Bubbles

As I mentioned, it is incredibly beneficial to try to get as much oxygen as possible dissolved in your water. Therefore, it’s a good idea to buy a medium sized air pump and big air stones for your hydroponic system.

Up to a point, the more bubbles and surface agitation, the better, as this dissolves more oxygen into the water. As long as the roots are not being very disturbed, you can’t really go wrong with adding more oxygen.

Root rot cannot thrive in an oxygen-rich environment and your plants will grow faster with lots of oxygen. I use one EcoPlus 2 Air Pump w/ 2 Outlets for each 10-gallon container (which each holds 5 gallons of water), which I have connected to 2 large air stones per air pump since this one has 2 outlets; this helps make sure there’s plenty of oxygen in the water healthy roots and faster growth.

You need 3/16-inch standard aquarium tubing to hook everything together. Try to get tubing in black if possible, to ensure light can’t get through.

This has worked great for me – I haven’t had root rot since I started using this air pump/air stone combination with Hydroguard. But lots of different pumps and types of air stones will work great – the important thing is to make sure that you’re seeing lots of bubbles!

3.) No Light Leaks in the Reservoir!

Your roots don’t like light, which is reason enough, but the bad organisms that attack cannabis roots love the heat and light they receive from your grow lights!

Therefore, hydro growers want it to be completely pitch black in their DWC reservoirs. You should not be able to see even a tiny bit of light where your roots are!

You don’t need to worry as much about repairing light leaks when using a dark, thick and sturdy tub as your water reservoir

I love this idea from Farmerjim420. Help block light and heat from the reservoir with a simple towel!

In order to accomplish a totally dark reservoir for your marijuana plants, here are some things to keep in mind!

1. Consider the Material & Thickness of the Reservoir Tub – Darker and thicker material will let less light through to the reservoir.
2. Consider Reflectivity – Pale colors tend to reflect back more light and heat, but you can always increase the reflectivity later by covering the lid with a reflective material!
3. Check Thoroughly for Light Leaks! You may need to get down low and look up to see them!
4. Use Opaque Tape to Cover Any Light Leaks – Electrical tape and reflective tape are great options for covering up places where light is getting through.
5. Use Dark (Light-Proof) Tubing – Another way to protect the water from light exposure
6. Light-Proof Your Net Pots. Neoprene net pot inserts are great to fill in the net pot instead of using clay pebbles, and won’t let any light get through.

All the Hydroguard, Great White, H2O2, or other root supplements in the world often won’t solve a root rot problem if there’s a light leak!

Read the Complete Tutorial on Preventing Light Leaks in a DWC Reservoir!

4.) Keep Grow Room Cool

Lower the temperature of the grow space under 80°F, and even better under 75°F.  This also lowers the temperature of the water in your reservoir. Water can’t hold much dissolved oxygen at higher temperatures and your plants need oxygen to “breathe.”

Getting more oxygen to the roots not only helps fight root rot, it makes your plants grow much faster. If it’s too hot in the grow space, you’re much more likely to run into root rot as well as overall droopiness.

In an ideal world, the maximum recommended temperature for the water in your reservoir is around 72°F (22°C) and some growers will go to great lengths to keep their reservoirs very cool. However, when using a great supplement like Hydroguard that fights root pathogens directly, you can often keep the temperature quite a few degrees higher without as a problem.

Learn how to control the temperature in the grow room

Cannabis plants like about the same temperature as humans do!

5.) Avoid Disturbing Roots, Especially Young Plants

When it comes to nutrients and plant growth in a hydroponic setup, it’s important to watch over your roots and change your reservoir water regularly. This is especially important in the flowering stage when the plant is very sensitive to nutrients and pH. Regularly changing your water every 7-10 days will help your plants get better access to nutrients, and help prevent deficiencies and toxicities.

However, when your young seedling or clone is first getting established in your hydroponic system, it doesn’t have an established a colony of good bacteria around the roots, and has not yet grown a biofilm that protects the roots against pathogens.

During this initial period, a full reservoir change can throw everything off balance, and your roots have to sort of “start over” from the beginning.

That’s why if you historically struggle with root rot, it’s recommended for the first 3-4 weeks of your cannabis plant’s life to only top off the reservoir with additional nutrient water, and hold off on a full reservoir change until your plants have grown lots of roots with a healthy layer of biofilm over all the roots and sides/bottoms of the tank.

6.) Keep Everything Extremely Clean & Sterile

In a hydroponic system, make sure that any dead roots, dead leaves or other types of plant debris doesn’t get into the reservoir because they will provide a breeding ground for bad bacteria as they start rotting. If you do notice organic matter in the reservoir, fish it out as soon as possible.

You also want to keep your grow area as clean as possible at all times to stop bacteria before it starts. Before you begin your grow, it’s a great idea to clean all grow-related items to kill any bacteria or fungus.

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Is Only a Temporary Solution: Use alongside something else for more long-lasting prevention!

Some people recommend treating cannabis root rot with H2O2, also known as hydrogen peroxide. While adding hydrogen peroxide to your water will kill most bacteria and pathogens, including the ones that cause root rot, it is only effective in your system for a day or so or since the H2O2 is quickly converted to oxygen and water.

Therefore, if you use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment for root rot, you will need to treat your water daily to prevent re-occurrences until you actually fix the problem that is causing your root rot in the first place. I have used commercial grade H2O2 against root rot more than once, and I never saw any noticeable difference, so I would NOT RECOMMEND H202 as any type of long term cure!

Why Not Use Hydrogen Peroxide? H2O2 is only temporarily effective at best when it comes to getting rid of root rot. It makes me so sad when people tell growers to use H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to kill root rot because I know they will continue to struggle with it. Even the commercial grade stuff just doesn’t work most of the time (and I’ve tried)!

All H2O2 does is cause bubbling near the dead brown roots (or any organic matter), which is why I think people believe it’s helping. In my experience, it doesn’t help the plants themselves (they don’t look any better), and what’s worse, all the H2O2 will be completely gone from the water within 24 hours.

H2O2 kills most of the bacteria in the reservoir, including any good bacteria you’ve added, and does nothing to address the underlying problem. You can’t sterilize away root rot, it attacks people everywhere! Although H2O2 does kill bad organisms, it leaves enough of it there to repopulate your reservoir.

I personally recommend Botanicare Hydroguard (the newer, improved version of Botanicare’s popular “Aquashield” root supplement) for marijuana root problems because I’ve used it successfully to get rid of more than once case of Root Rot (and by ‘successful’ I mean new white roots exploded out of the old mushy brown ones and I was able to eventually harvest the buds – look at the pics below).

Hydroguard (and their old supplement Aquashield) are also much cheaper than most other similar root treatments, and in my experience more effective.

Take a look at what happens with the roots from using a supplement like Hydroguard.

What you are looking for is new healthy white roots growing out of the old brown roots. Eventually, as the root ball gets bigger, you will no longer be able to see the old brown roots. After you start noticing a recovery, some growers will snip off old dead roots, but I often don’t.

Before – Roots Just Got Root Rot

Roots are beginning to recover…

Notice the new white roots growing out of the old brown dead ones within just a day or two of receiving Hydroguard in the reservoir. By this point, the plant has stopped showing any new symptoms and appears to be growing normally.

Roots are now mostly recovered below…

Notice that you can barely see any signs of the old brown, and all the new roots generally appear white and healthy. The plants on top are lush, healthy, and fast-growing, though the old burnt leaves never recovered.

In addition to treating root rot, I like to use Hydroguard or as a preventative. It is surprisingly effective even in warm reservoirs. Hydroguard have definitely gotten me through a hot summer before.

Since I first started using Hydroguard in DWC, bubbleponics, and other hydroponics, it has successfully prevented me from getting root rot as long as I keep using it. I also use it when growing in soil if I suspect root problems.

Read a case study about how another grower was able to get rid of cannabis root rot

Jump to…

Case Study: Root Rot Recovery

Other Cannabis Root Problems

Over-watering Cannabis

How to Grow Hydroponic Cannabis

Yuck! Follow This Tutorial and Never Get Root Rot Again!

The post Root Rot appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

What Does a Cannabis Potassium Deficiency Look Like?

Leaf Problem / Symptoms: With a marijuana potassium deficiency, you’ll generally see symptoms on older leaves, but not always. Sometimes you’ll see the symptoms at the top of the plant. Leaves with a potassium deficiency get yellow, brown, or burnt edges and tips. The burnt edges may look a little like nutrient burn, except the affected leaves also start turning yellow in the margins.

Example of a marijuana potassium deficiency with common leaf symptoms

You may see the brown burnt edges first, or you may see the yellowing first. When the leaf symptoms are both present, it’s a good sign you have a potassium deficiency in your leaves.

Plants may stretch and stems may become weak, but leaf symptoms are more noticeable. The leaf symptoms appear somewhat similar to an iron deficiency in that they can turn bright yellow, but the tips of the leaves curl as the edges turn brown, burn and die.

Cannabis potassium deficiencies can cause your cannabis leaves to turn white, yellow, brown or burnt looking, but the inside veins almost always stay green. Sometimes a Potassium deficiency is made worse by overwatering, as was the case with this plant.

Sometimes you’ll get something that looks a lot like tip burn with a potassium deficiency, but it goes in further than nutrient burn, and with a potassium deficiency you also see yellowing between the leaf margins

Sometimes the burn can appear pale, bleached or yellow, instead of brown. If you look in the background of this pic, you can see some of the leaves have turned brown in addition to the bright yellow leaf in the front. These are all signs of a marijuana potassium deficiency.

Potassium deficiencies are commonly mistaken for other nutrient problems!

Sometimes the first symptoms of a cannabis potassium deficiency look a lot like nutrient burn. One difference is the edges of the leaves will also start turning brown, where nutrient burn usually only affects the tips. And unlike with nutrient burn the leaves of a potassium deficiency turn yellow in the margins, especially near the burn edges.

This is not nutrient burn, it’s actually the first stage of potassium deficiency!

Could it actually be light burn?

Keeping your grow lights too close, for example with powerful LEDs and HPS grow lights can give your plants “sunburn” even if the temperature is cool! This can sometimes look like exactly like a cannabis potassium deficiency when the true problem is your grow lights are too close to your leaves.

These leaves look like they have a potassium deficiency but the symptoms are actually caused by light burn (grow lights being kept too close)

Is it actually light burn?

Solution for Potassium Deficiency in Cannabis

Note: Sometimes a cannabis potassium deficiency (like all deficiencies) can be triggered by stressful conditions (for example overwatering, heat, transplant, etc) and may clear up on its own after the period of stress is over. If you only see one or two affected leaves near the bottom of the plant, and the problem isn’t spreading, I wouldn’t worry too much about it!

1.) Make Sure It’s Not Light Burn

When a cannabis plant is kept too close to the grow lights, it can get light burn which looks almost exactly like a potassium deficiency. If you’re using powerful lights like an LED or MH/HPS, consider moving the light away a few inches further away to see if that stops the problem from spreading. LEDs or MH/HPS should never be kept closer than 12″ away, and most models should be kept further. How far away do I keep my grow lights?

Learn more about cannabis light burn

2.) Use Good Sources of Nutrients

Most cannabis growers don’t need to add more nutrients if their leaves are experiencing a nutrient deficiency. In fact, most growers have actually already given plenty of potassium to their cannabis plants, whether they meant to or not. If you’re using quality soil or cannabis-friendly nutrients, you probably don’t need to worry about adding more patassium.

Potassium deficiencies are generally more likely to appear when a grower is using heavily filtered or reverse osmisis (RO) water to feed plants, but as long as you’re giving your plants a good source of nutrients, you probably need to…

3.) Adjust pH to Correct Range

But the reason most growers see potassium deficiencies is because potassium is best absorbed at lower pH ranges. When the pH gets too high, your plant may exhibit signs of a potassium deficiency even if it’s physically there near the roots.

Learn how to manage your pH when growing cannabis.

In soil, potassium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 7.0 pH range

In hydro or coco coir, potassium is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 – 6.5 pH range

4.) Watch Leaves for Recovery

If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a potassium deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients. Old damaged growth will likely not recover. Watch plant over next few days to make sure that the problem stops spreading to new growth.

If you cannot get rid of your potassium deficiency and want to look at more pictures of cannabis leaf symptoms…

Diagnose my sick plant!

The post Potassium Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

The first signs of a cannabis boron deficiency is abnormal or thick growth tips along with brown or yellow spotting on new leaves.

With a boron deficiency, upper cannabis leaves display abnormal and/or slowed growth. Growing tips may not grow properly, may display twisted growth, and may die off. New leaves may wrinkle or curl.

Plant roots can also be affected by a boron deficiency, showing unhealthy or slow growth. Stems may become rough or hollow. Boron deficiencies are more likely to appear when a plant is underwatered or experiencing very low humidity (very dry air).

A plant with a boron deficiency may look like it has a calcium deficiency because boron is needed for the plant to properly use calcium. New growth is affected the most, and may look like it’s been burnt or scorched. A boron deficiency is often accompanied by an apparent potassium or nitrogen deficiency, as these nutrients are needed for the plant to use boron.

Solution for Boron Deficiency in Cannabis

Note: Sometimes a cannabis boron deficiency (like all deficiencies) can be triggered by stressful conditions and may clear up on its own after the period of stress is over.

1.) Use Good Sources of Nutrients

Most cannabis growers don’t need to add more nutrient. In fact, most growers have actually already given plenty of boron to their cannabis plants, whether they meant to or not. If you’re using quality soil or cannabis-friendly nutrients, you probably don’t need to worry about adding more boron. Boron deficiencies are generally more likely to appear when a grower is using heavily filtered or reverse osmisis (RO) water to feed plants, since boron is found in most tap water, but that’s actually not the most common reason growers see boron deficiencies in their cannabis plants! As long as you’re giving your plants a good source of nutrients, you probably need to…

2.) Adjust pH to Correct Range

But the reason most growers see boron deficiencies is because boron is best absorbed at lower pH ranges. When the pH gets too high, your plant may exhibit signs of a boron deficiency even if it’s physically there near the roots.

Learn how to manage your pH when growing cannabis.

In soil, boron is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 6.5 pH range (in soil, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 6.0 – 7.0, but boron specifically tends to be best absorbed below 6.5).

In hydro, boron is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 – 6.2 pH range (in hydro, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 – 6.5, but boron specifically tends to be best absorbed below 6.2).

3.) Give Plants Enough Moisture

Boron is not absorbed well if there isn’t enough moisture, for example if plant is underwatered or humidity is very low (below 25% relative humidity in the air). Proper watering practices will help prevent underwatering, and a humidifier may be needed to achieve the best growth if your grow room is very dry.

4.) Watch Leaves for Recovery

If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a boron deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients. Old damaged growth will likely not recover. Watch plant over next few days to make sure that the problem stops spreading to new growth.

If you cannot get rid of your boron deficiency, please consult our 7-Step Cure to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems

The post Boron Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

This cannabis plant suffered from the grow light being too close along with major heat stress during a heatwave in Southern California

Important for Hydroponic Growers! High temps can trigger root rot, a serious problem that can kill your plants.

Cannabis will also display heat stress when grown outdoors in hot, dry weather, especially when not given enough water.

When the heat gets too high, the edges of the serrated leaves will begin to curl up even if there are no burns or other signs of light stress.

When the heat gets too high, the edges of the leaves will begin to curl up and the leaves will begin to “cup.”

Heat Stress

Very low humidity can make plants more likely to get stressed by the heat. Sometimes you’ll get symptoms that look like heat stress even if it’s not that hot, and the symptoms are worse because the plant is being affected by very low humidity! Dry, hot air will commonly tip up the edges of leaves like this:

Heat stress is even more damaging in the flowering stage since plant is no longer growing many new leaves. Indica-leaning strains are most prone to heat damage in the flowering stage. Heat damage during budding will reduce your yields by demolishing many of your most important leaves, while also causing buds to grow airy with ugly foxtails.

Even though the grow lights were turned off, this is what happened to an indica-leaning plant overnight after being exposed to 105°F (40°C) temperatures during a heat wave.

If flowering cannabis plants are grown under too-hot conditions for a long time, sometimes they respond by growing new buds on top of the old ones. When you see extensive growth on top of the buds closest to the grow lights, that’s a sign that the grow light is too close or the temperature is too high. Some people call the new growth (which often grows in spires) “fox tails.”

If it seems like your cannabis plants are completely ready for harvest, but they keep putting out new white pistils at the top of the plant, it might just be heat. If that’s the case, pay attention to the lower growth to decide when to harvest.

Heat during the flowering stage also causes fox-tails, which are airy and don’t have much substance to them. It’s basically the same response as growing new buds on top, it just looks a little different on some plants. The plant is basically “abandoning” the original heat-damaged bud to try to make a sad new one.

Example of unwanted “fox-tailing” caused by too much heat

Solution: Get a way to monitor temperature. Control heat by whatever means necessary using the steps outlined below.

Learn 5 secrets to controlling heat in the grow room!

Indoors, find a way to lower the temperature and/or increase the circulation in the grow room or grow area if heat is the problem. Having a small fan blowing over the tops of your plants will help prevent hot spots from forming directly under your grow lights. How far away should you keep your grow lights from your plants?

You may consider removing grow lights further away from the tops of the plants if heat is a problem.

When growing cannabis, it’s best to try to keep things at a comfortable room temperature at all times for optimal growth. If it’s too hot for you, it’s probably too hot for your plants.

Keep roots cool!

If you can keep your roots cool, it will help your plant deal with heat affecting the top of the plant. If there’s some way to protect the roots from heat, do it!

When cannabis plants are recovering from heat shock, some growers recommend using seaweed kelp extract (often available as a convenient liquid fertilizer) to help plants recover from the stress and possible even protect plants from heat stress in the future.

Many indoor setups will require that you vent out hot air using a fan and/or an exhaust system. By creating good suction with an efficient exhaust system and adding a carbon scrubber, you can also pretty much scrub all smells from the grow room. Learn more about controlling odors in the grow room.

An oscillating fan will circulate air in the room as well as provide a gentle breeze for your plants, and a small one will cost less than $20.

Learn everything you need to know about controlling temperature in the grow room

Outdoors, you have less options to reduce heat during a heat wave, but you are able to monitor your local weather via weather forecasts.

It is possible to partially shield your plants when you know the temperature is going to get hot. You can also adjust your watering schedule to make sure plants at least have plenty of water.

Some things to try when you know the weather outside is going to be hot or dry:

• water plants in the evening or early morning to help prevent water evaporation during the hottest hours
• keep roots cool – for example by putting your potted plant in a ceramic pot to help insulate the roots from the sun. I’ve also heard of growers digging a hole in the ground to place their potted plant inside, because the ground is usually cooler than the air when the temperature gets high
• kelp extract for roots – provide a small amount of liquid fertilizer that contains seaweed kelp extract (can help protect against heat stress)
• increase shade to reduce the heat experienced by plants – you can use an old sheet or other cloth as a short term solution, or get a profesionally made “Sun Shade Sail” which is made particularly to create shade outdoors. It’s important to remember that giving plants shade for more than a few days will make them less “hardened” to the sun, and you may need to reintroduce full sunlight back slowly to prevent them from getting shocked from the light intensity
• move potted plants – luckily with potted plants, it’s usually easier to move them out of direct sunlight during a heat wave
• take extra good care of heat-stressed plants – when cannabis plants appear heat-stressed, try to baby them as best you can, and offer shade during the hottest days.

When growing cannabis outdoors, it can often take a few weeks for plant to recover after a hot or dry spell, so prevention is the best medicine for outdoor plants.

Jump to…

Picking the right grow light

Light-Stress & Light-Burn

Air Circulation & Exhaust Tutorial

7 Tips to Growing Top-Shelf Buds

The post Heat Stress appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Sometimes accompanied by a Calcium deficiency, as Phosphorus and Calcium interact with each other in the plant.

A cannabis phosphorus deficiency usually appears with some or all of the following symptoms:

• tends to affect the lower and older leaves of the plant
• sometimes a phosphorus deficiency is accompanied by bright red stems (though not always), though if you have red stems but no other symptoms, it’s typically not something to worry about
• leaves darken (turning a dark green, blue or grayish color) and may appear shiny
• leaves may start turning yellow in places if the phosphorus deficiency is left untreated, or if the deficiency is combined with other nutrients deficiencies and/or pH problems. However, yellow leaves is typically not associated with the beginning of a phosphorus deficiency.
• leaves get bronze, purple or brown spots and splotches
• leaves thicken and may feel dry or stiff
• stems sometimes turn bright red or purple, but not always
• sometimes accompanied by a Calcium deficiency, as Phosphorus and Calcium interact with each other inside the plant
• this deficiency is more common after buds start forming, when the plant is using a lot of Phosphorus

Phosphorus deficiencies in the vegetative stage usually appear at the bottom of the plant on some of the oldest leaves, and will progressively climb up the plant if left unchecked.

The progression of a cannabis phosphorus deficiency

A phosphorus deficiency tends to be more common after plants start making buds in the flowering stage. Cannabis plants tend to love phosphorus in the flowering/budding stage and it is unlikely for a cannabis plant to get too much phosphorus using standard nutrients formulated for a flowering plant like cannabis. Nearly all flowering nutrients will come with an abundance of phosphorus for your plants. So if you’re seeing a cannabis phosphorus deficiency while using standard cannabis nutrients, chances are you actually have a root pH problem (explained below in the solution section)!

Phosphorus (P) is used by your cannabis plant in all phases of growth. It is one of the 3 major nutrients (N-P-K) listed on the front of most nutrient bottles, and phosphorus will be represented by the second number that appears.

When there is a phosphorus deficiency, the lower (oldest) leaves turn dark green. Leaves occasionally get a bluish or bronze tinge, and may thicken or curl downward before exhibiting dark gray, bronze or purplish splotches. Sometimes the stems of the affected leaves will turn bright red or purplish, usually starting from underneath.

It’s common to see a Phosphorus deficiency accompanied by the symptoms of a Calcium deficiency, as those nutrients interact with each other in the plant.

Sometimes you will get a cannabis phosphorus deficiency, and the stems do not appear red or purple at all, or the coloring may not be pronounced.

The leaf below was at the bottom of the plant and turned dark green and shiny, with a bluish tinge. Cannabis phosphorus deficiencies usually appear on the lower/older parts of the plant. The leaf then started showing the spots of a phosphorus deficiency where it was being touched by light (the parts of the leaf working hardest). The leaf began to curl downwards and turn yellow.

Notice that the stems or veins never turned red or purple on this leaf, except for some parts that were actually affected by the phosphorus deficiency.

A common symptom of a cannabis phosphorus deficiency is bright red or purple stems, though it doesn’t appear on all affected plants. Red stems can also be caused by direct light exposure (like a “tan”)

Another example of bright red stems that may be the result of a Phosphorus deficiency, or possibly direct light exposure.

It’s important to remember that some cannabis strains naturally grow with red or purple stems even when all their nutrient needs are being fulfilled, so red or purple stems is not a symptom to worry about on its own.

Do not mistake natural reddish-purple colored stems for a phosphorous deficiency!

When you notice that stems are turning red or purple starting from underneath, it may be a sign of a phosphorus deficiency only if accompanied by other symptoms. If the only symptom shown by your plant is red or purple stems, and you are not seeing any other signs of splotches or unhealthy leaves, the red or purple stems are likely caused by the genetics of your plant. If that’s the case, you have nothing to worry about.

Phosphorus is used heavily by cannabis plants in the flowering phase to produce buds, and is a crucial component of photosynthesis (turning light into energy for the plant).

Some strains of cannabis use much more phosphorus than others, or be more susceptible to a phosphorus deficiency, and you may have many plants in the exact same setup with only some of the plants showing signs of a phosphorus deficiency.

Solution For Cannabis Phosphorus Deficiency

1.) Adjust pH to Correct Range

Your cannabis plant may show signs of a phosphorus deficiency if the pH at the roots is not in the right range. That is because when the pH of your root zone is off, your cannabis cannot properly absorb phosphorus through its roots. Therefore the first step is to ensure that you have the correct pH for your growth medium. Learn more about pH and cannabis.

Phosphorus is best absorbed by cannabis in soil at a root pH of 6.2 – 7.0. Phosphorus is best absorbed by cannabis in hydro at a root pH of 5.5 – 6.2. If you believe you have a cannabis phosphorus deficiency, it’s important to check the pH of your root zone to make sure the deficiency isn’t caused by the pH being too high or too low.

If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a phosphorus deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients that includes phosphorus. This will remove any nutrient salts that may be affected the uptake of phosphorus and help restore pH to the proper levels.

• In soil, phosphorus is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.2 – 7.0 pH range (in soil, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 6.0 – 7.0, but phosphorus specifically tends to be best absorbed above 6.2 and below 7.0)
• In hydro, phosphorus is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 – 6.2 pH range (in hydro, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 – 6.5, but phosphorus specifically tends to be best absorbed below 6.2)

2.) Take Good Care of the Roots

Wet, compact soil or overwatering can trigger a phosphorus deficiency to appear even when all other factors are perfect. So make sure you water your plants properly every time to help prevent a phosphorus deficiency.

3.) Provide the Right Temperature

Cooler temperatures lower than 60°F (15°C), as well as large temperature swings, can make it harder for the plant to absorb phosphorus. Cannabis plants are therefore more likely to show signs of a phosphorus deficiency when the temperature drops too low, or if they go through a cold spell.

Cannabis likes a comfortable room temperature (they like about the same temperatures as we do).

Read the cannabis temperature tutorial

4.) Give the Right Nutrients

Most growers have actually already given plenty of phophorus to their cannabis plants since it is found abundantly in quality soil and cannabis-friendly nutrients. However, even if you are giving phosphorus, it’s important to give your cannabis the right ratio of nutrients.

An excess of Fe and Zn may cause the symptoms of a phosphorus deficiency by preventing the plant from being able to absorb phosphorus properly. If you believe there may be a buildup of nutrient salts in your growing medium (or if you are growing in hydro and have not recently flushed or changed your reservoir) you should make sure it’s not an excess of other nutrients that is actually causing the phosphorus deficiency to appear. Flush your plant thoroughly with properly pH’ed water containing a regular dose of cannabis nutrients including phosphorus, or completely change your reservoir if you believe that an excess of nutrient salts may be causing the phosphorus deficiency.

Sources of phosphorus:

• Bat guano (phosphorus is readily available, especially if made into a teat)
• Bone or blood meal (takes quite a bit of time to break down in soil unless made into a tea first)
• Worm castings or worm tea
• Soft Rock Phosphate
• Fish meal
• Crabshell
• Most cannabis-friendly “bloom” or “flowering” nutrients contain high levels of phosphorus to aid in flower production, and phosphorus from a liquid nutrient is one of the most readily available forms of phosphorus you can provide to your cannabis plants

If you’ve tried everything else, then you may try adding a higher percentage of phosphorus to your feeding schedule and see if that helps clear up the problem for your plant. Cannabis plants love phosphorus, and therefore it is unlikely that you will give your cannabis too much phosphorus.

Most nutrient systems that are formulated for a plant like cannabis will carry and abundance of phosphorus, especially in budding/flowering formulas, so it is unlikely that you will see signs of a phosphorus deficiency before other nutrient problems when using nutrient systems formulated for cannabis (as long as you keep your root pH in the correct range and prevent the plants from getting cold or being overwatered). If you’ve got very high powered lights, or if your plants are growing in direct sunlight, they may be going through a lot more phosphorus in the flowering stage than average and may need you to provide extra phosphorus to make sure buds get as big as they could be.

Just remember that if there’s no actual phosphorus deficiency currently appearing on your cannabis plant, adding more phosphorus is probbaly not going to help plants grow better or make bigger buds – in fact adding too much phosphorus may actually hurt your plants by preventing the uptake of other nutrients! While it’s difficult to overdose your plants on phosphorus, adding too much compared to other nutrients will often cause other strange & unexpected deficiencies to appear.

5.) Take Good Care of the Roots

Phosphorus deficiencies can show up with the plant is having root problems or if the plant is overwatered, even if the pH is right and the phosphorus is there. Proper watering practices help plants grow healthy and avoid a host of problems!

6.) Watch for Recovery

After going through all the above steps, watch to make sure that the phosphorus deficiency starts to clear up within a few days to a week or so. After a phosphorus deficiency is cleared up, the problem (brown spots, unhealthy lower leaves, red/purple stems, etc) will stop appearing on new leaves, usually within a week.

Please note that leaves which have been damaged by a phosphorus deficiency will probably never recover or turn green, so you want to pay attention to other leaves for signs of recovery.

If you cannot get rid of your phosphorus deficiency, please consult our 7-Step Cure to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems

The post Phosphorus Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Problem: After watering, your plants start drooping. Usually the droopy leaves will feel firm and appear curled down (the whole leaf will be curled, not just the tips, which is often a sign of nitrogen toxicity). With overwatered cannabis plants, you may also notice Chlorosis (leaf yellowing that is similar to a nitrogen deficiency).

Overwatered cannabis plants are droopy with leaves that curl down. As a result of overwatering, leaves often turn yellow or show other signs of nutrient deficiencies (especially when it comes to younger plants and seedlings!)

Overwatering does not always mean you’ve been giving the plant too much water. It can also mean that you’ve been giving the plant water too often, or growing plants in a growing medium that holds onto water without enough air, or doesn’t have good drainage out the bottom.

How Often Do I Water My Cannabis Plants?

Cannabis plants use their roots to get oxygen, almost like they’re breathing. Oxygen is dissolved in water, and there’s also air pockets in their grow medium to provide a source of oxygen. When you water your plants too often, the roots end up sitting in stagnant water. The reason your plants droop is because basically their roots are starving for oxygen.

This sick marijuana seedling has several symptoms including droopiness and leaves with brown spots that appear to be a nutrient deficiency. Surprisingly, the true cause of both problems actually is the thick, wet, muddy soil.

The main sign of a cannabis plant being overwatered are the droopy leaves, though other symptoms often appear around the same time!

Overwatered Marijuana Plants

• Drooping / Curling is the first sign of overwaterd marijuana plants
• Plants start drooping soon after watering
• Leaves are firm and curled down all the way from the stem to the leaf
• Will eventually lead to leaf yellowing and other signs of nutrient problems if not corrected

The drooping cannabis plant below did not have drainage holes (water could not drain out the bottom of the pot). After watering the plant which appeared healthy the night before, the grower came back to this drooping plant the next day – this case of overwatering was caused by too much water being held near the roots due to lack of drainage:

Solution: The best thing you can do for overwatered plants is give them time between waterings, and then start off watering slowly until things seem back to normal. Make sure that water is able to drain easily out the bottom of potted cannabis plants. Be extra careful with small plants in big containers.

How to Water Cannabis Properly

1. Wait until the top of the growing medium is dry about an inch deep (up to your first knuckle).

2. Add water until you see some at least 20% extra runoff water drain out the bottom of your pot. Go back to step 1.

3. If top of growing medium stays wet for a long time, you may need to give your plants less water at a time, or improve your drainage.

4. The goal is to be watering your plants every 2-3 days. If it needs longer to dry out, you should be giving less water at a time. If it’s drying out too quickly it should get more water at a time (or may need to move to a bigger pot).

Learn how to water your marijuana plants perfectly every time

Some growers also use the “lift the pot” method to decide when to water your plants (basically wait until your pot feels “light” since the plants have used up all the water). It’s up to you to decide what’s easier for you.

If your plant medium seems to stay wet for a long time (more than 4-5 days or so), you may need better drainage. This also can happen when growers put tiny plants in a pot that’s way too big.

How to Water Cannabis Seedlings in a Too-Big Container

This cannabis plant has green healthy leaves, but as a result of overwatering it’s stunted and small even though its more than a month old.

Make sure that water drains freely from the bottom of your container (it’s recommended that you provide enough water to get at least 20% extra runoff every time you water your plants as long as your plants are drinking well).

You should see water coming out the bottom within a minute or two after watering. Then don’t water your plants again until the soil is dry up to your first knuckle.

If your plants are already overwatered, you can try to increase the temperature and airflow to help the water evaporate more quickly. You can also use a pencil to gently poke some air holes into the growing medium to provide extra aeration and oxygen to the roots.

Whenever a seedling has droopy leaves, it means that the roots are either not getting enough water (underwatered) or not getting enough oxygen (overwatered). This seedling has been chronically watered too often, preventing the roots from getting enough oxygen. As a result, the seedling has stayed small and mostly stopped growing.

For your individual growing medium and environment, your watering method will vary, but if your plants are drooping and you’ve been feeding them a lot of water, it’s a good idea to cut back and see if that helps.

Sometimes plants will be droopy no matter what you do, and the true cause is the plant is rootbound and needs a bigger container!

If you’re growing hydroponically with your marijuana roots directly in water and you see the signs of overwatering, that means you have a problem at your roots. Either your plants have root rot which is preventing them from getting oxygen at their roots, or you are not dissolving enough oxygen into the water (you can easily increase the dissolved oxygen in your water with a quality air pump and a few air stones).

How to Get Rid of Root Rot in Hydro

Need more help?

If your plant is experiencing “the claw” and not just normal drooping (the ends of leaves are curling like a claw or pointing down like talons), then you may actually have a nitrogen toxicity (too much nitrogen).

These Plants Are NOT Overwaterd, These Leaves Show Signs of “The Claw” which usually indicates a Nitrogen Toxicity
(“The Claw”, tips bent down, curling / clawing, dark green leaves)

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