This article on beet curly top virus in cannabis plants is largely based on the invaluable contributions of Whitney Cranshaw. Cranshaw has built an extensive repository on hemp pests (note: hemp and high-THC cannabis are the same species of plant, and experience the same pests) and generously offers pest pictures and information to the cannabis-growing and scientific communities.

I would also like to thank Dr. Punya Nachappa, Judith Chiginsky, and Bob Hammon for contributing online resources on beet curly top virus in cannabis plants to help create a comprehensive information sheet [PDF] on the subject. For further reading, Colorado State University offers more excellent cannabis pest information sheets.

Pictures of Cannabis Plants with Beet Curly Top Virus

Some cannabis plants get yellow and stunted, but may not show the “curly top” symptoms. First, the “curly top” everyone’s talking about:

“Leaf curling associated with infection of hemp by beet curly top virus.” ~Whitney Cranshaw

“‘Classic’ symptoms of beet curly top virus infection of hemp, with generalized yellowing of the plant, without leaf distortion, and stunting.” ~ Whitney Cranshaw

Leafhoppers Spread Beet Curly Top Virus!

Check out the full page on leafhoppers (one of the leading vectors for beet curly top virus in cannabis plants).

The beet leafhopper is a host for Beet Curly Top Virus, and easily spreads the disease while feeding. Photographer: A.C. Magyarosy

It is possible other types of leafhoppers, or other insects, could be spreading the virus among marijuana plants, though more information is needed.

What is Beet Curly Top Virus and How Does it Infect Cannabis Plants?

Beet Curly Top Virus (BCTV) is a cannabis plant disease that is transmitted by the beet leafhopper (Neoaliturus tenellus) and possibly other forms of transmission (other bugs, transferring the virus from one plant to another during handling, etc).

Beet Curly Top Virus (BCTV) can infect a wide variety of host plants, including sugar beets, tomatoes, beans, spinach, and cannabis (hemp) plants. I heard about beet curly top virus at the Cannabis Business Conference in 2022, though it initially was identified in cannabis plants in 2020 or earlier.

“Beet curly top virus infection showing both yellowing and strong leaf curling.” ~Whitney Cranshaw

“Closer view of a hemp shoot exhibiting leaf curling and twisting due to Beet curly top virus” Credit: pnwhandbooks.org

How the Virus Spreads to Cannabis Plants

Most commonly, the disease is spread through leafhoppers (a common cannabis pest), which feed on infected plants and then spread the virus to a clean plant on its next feeding.

So far, the Worland (BCTV-Wor) and Colorado (BCTV-CO) strains of the beet curly top virus have been identified in Colorado, but there are likely other strains affecting cannabis plants in different parts of the world.

Symptoms of Beet Curly Top Virus in Cannabis Plants

BCTV can cause a wide variety of symptoms, though the curling of new growth (“curly tops”) is the most striking.

• Twisting of new growth (“curly tops”) – New growth on the plant may display a strong twisting or curling pattern. This new growth may remain green or turn yellow. Leaves tend to curl upwards
• Stunted size – Slow growth is common, and plants may stay small or act like “runts” even if they don’t show other symptoms.
• Leaf yellowing or mottling – Early stages of infection may produce light yellowing or mottling, mostly at the base of a leaf. Over time, this yellowing may become more pronounced and eventually whole plays may become pale yellow and stunted
• Localized symptoms – Some plants may only have symptoms on certain spots, while the rest of the growth appears normal. For instance, the original stem might develop curly top symptoms, while side branches that develop later have typical growth patterns.

The total effects (overall health, yield, and other potential issues) of beet curly top virus on cannabis plants are still not fully understood, because the virus’ ability to affect cannabis plants was discovered relatively recently.

Some hemp or cannabis plants infected with the virus can outgrow most of these symptoms, but it’s still a good idea to get rid of them anyway to prevent future transmission. We need to do more research to discover all the strains affecting cannabis, and how they differ from each other.

“‘Bisymptomatic’ hemp plant infected with beet curly top. In this condition, the original plant stem shows strong symptoms of infection, including yellowing and leaf distortion. On the same plant, side shoots develop that appear symptom free.” ~Whitney Cranshaw.

How to Treat Beet Curly Top Virus (Prevention)

Unfortunately, because there is no cure for beet curly top virus, the best thing for a cannabis grower to do is get rid of all cannabis plants known to be infected by BCTV.

Note: It is possible to use plant tissue culture to grow a clone of the infected plant (typically done in a lab by experts), which gives you a clean uninfected plant with the same genetics. However, there is no way to cure a plant that already has the virus. Even if it outgrows its symptoms (which occasionally happens), it will still be able to infect other plants. Therefore it’s highly recommended to carefully dispose of infected plants.

1. Carefully get rid of infected plants – If you suspect your plant has beet curly top virus, separate it immediately from your other plants, and consider throwing it away to prevent the potential spread of the virus to other plants.
2. Get rid of leafhoppers (if any) – If you suspect your cannabis got infected due to leafhoppers, then a preventative step is to control the local leafhopper population.
3. Clean entire grow area – Outdoors, clean the area around the plants (rake up any leaves, treat for bugs, etc.). Indoors, it’s a good idea to sterilize any part of the grow space that may have touched infected plant matter.
4. Take care when touching plants – Until you’re during the virus is gone, take extra care whenever you’re touching one plant and then another. For example, if you’re defoliating or cutting off parts of the plant, make sure to change gloves before you start on another plant. You don’t want the juices from the inside of one plant to touch the inside of another plant.
5. Start with seeds – Clones will typically carry the virus if the parent plant was infected, but cannabis plants grown from seeds are rarely infected (even if their parents were). Dip seeds briefly in a 10% hydrogen peroxide solution before germination to ensure the virus is not on the seed coat. This doesn’t prevent the plant from catching the virus later, but starting with seeds helps give you a small amount of protection because, without any infected plants around, transmission is impossible.

Protect your cannabis plants from viruses so they can focus on producing amazing buds.

Conclusion

In this tutorial, we’ve unearthed vital insights about the Beet Curly Top Virus (BCTV) and its bearing on cannabis plants. From its varied host plants to its symptoms and strains, BCTV is a formidable threat that requires keen observation and swift action.

Key takeaways for cannabis growers

• Understand the Virus – BCTV is a disease transmitted to cannabis plants by beet leafhoppers and possibly other means. Simply being aware of this and its many host plants prepares you to intervene swiftly when the first signs of infection appear.
• Spot the Symptoms – Identifying the symptoms of BCTV is crucial for early detection. Curling of new growth, stunted growth, leaf mottling or yellowing, and localized symptoms are key indicators of potential infection.
• Transmission – The primary transmission method is through leafhoppers or other mechanical damage (like pruning first an infected plant and then a healthy one without washing your hands between). Understanding how transmission works can guide you toward effective control measures, like carefully handling plants and managing leafhopper populations.
• Management and Control –  Although there is no cure for BCTV, there are practical strategies for managing an outbreak. Disposing of infected plants, eradicating leafhoppers, thoroughly cleaning the grow area, and minimizing plant-to-plant contact can help curb the spread of the virus. If you’re concerned your current stock of genetics may have the virus, start your next grow with known clean plants (or seeds) to help ensure you have clean stock.

Remember, the best defense against BCTV is a strong offense. Stay vigilant, act quickly, and employ these strategies to safeguard healthy cannabis plants and yield. The journey to understanding and managing BCTV is ongoing, and your proactive efforts are a critical part of that process.

If you have pictures, information, or experience with beef curly top virus in cannabis plants, please don’t hesitate to contact us so we can help share the word!

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Hemp russet mites are tiny bugs that attack cannabis plants. In fact, they are so small you can only see them with a magnifier unless there are thousands of them infesting your marijuana plant. They live the crevices of leaves, stems, or buds, and the initial symptoms are not that serious. Many cannabis growers may not realize they have a bug infestation of hemp russet mites, and it’s common for growers to confuse the symptoms for other problems such as mold, fusarium, pollen, tobacco mosaic virus, overwatering, a nutrient deficiency or heat damage.

Hemp russet mites often cause curling on the edges of cannabis leaves. Another symptom of hemp russet mites is buds start dying. (Hemp russet mite leaf damage picture by thehumboldtlocal)

Hemp russet mites are tiny. You often won’t see them until you have a full infestation. They may appear as a beige or yellow mass (typically towards the tops of the plant). This yellow fuzz is sometimes confused for yellow mold, but it’s not mold. The yellow stuff is actually a result of the hemp russet mites. This cannabis hemp russet mites picture is by grow.nation.

This picture by Whitney Cranshaw shows the distortions you may see on cannabis buds and new leaves as a result of hemp russet mites. Click for closeup!

Here’s another picture of hemp russet mite damage on cannabis plants by Whitney Cranshaw. Note: The black and yellow bug in the picture is a ladybug nymph. It’s likely there trying to eat all the hemp russet mites!

If you see ladybug babies like the nymph in the above picture, don’t kill them! Ladybugs eat cannabis pests like hemp russet mites.

The following two pictures of Hemp Russet Mites (Aculops cannabicola) were taken in Bloomington, Indiana by Karl Hillig. This picture shows hundreds of microscopic hemp russet mites on the petiole of a cannabis leaf.

These microscopic four-legged mites infested cannabis hemp plants in a greenhouse at Indiana University. This picture shows hemp russet mites on a leaf petiole that was about 2 mm wide. By Karl Hillig.

Hemp russet mite damage on left leaf, healthy cannabis leaf on right (picture by Whitney Cranshaw of Colorado State University) – Click for closeup!

Symptoms of hemp russet mites on cannabis include:

• Symptoms often worst towards the tops of the plant
• Bugs are pale, typically either tan or yellow. In big enough numbers they can cause parts of the cannabis plant to look beige or yellow.
• Can spread through the wind
• Sometimes mistaken for fungus, mold, or pollen.
• Tops of plants droop, especially where there is a big infestation
• Curling of the leaf edges (on some plants)
• Dull-colored leaves or stems that may become brittle. These affected areas are where bugs are living inside the plant tissue.
• Brown or yellow spots (from leaf stress, not visible bites)

An intense hemp russet mite infestation on cannabis plants can be difficult to diagnose because it’s hard to see the individual bugs and is often confused for mold, underwatering, root problems, or other environmental cause.

The yellow mass of the tops of this cannabis plant isn’t mold or pollen. It’s actually an infestation of hemp russet mites.

About hemp russet mites

• Can reproduce and attack cannabis plants all year round
• Most harmful in the flowering stage when buds get infested
• Indoors, fans can spread mites

Unfortunately, hemp russet mites are one of the toughest cannabis pests to get rid of. They lay their eggs inside the plant which makes it very difficult to kill their eggs.

Prevention

• Grow from seeds (hemp mites and eggs cannot survive on seeds). If you start from seeds, your plants will not get hemp russet mites unless they get infected by some other source
• Treat and quarantine all new plants (even if they seem healthy) to ensure they don’t have hemp russet mites (or spider mites)

Time to get rid of hemp russet mites for good.

Solution: How to Get Rid of Hemp Russet Mites On Cannabis

Once you’ve actually identified that the bugs you have on your cannabis are hemp russet mites, it’s time to get rid of them! When it comes to hemp russet mites, a lot of the “standard” miticides are not as effective and you’ll notice these particular mites aren’t listed on the labels.

Hemp russet mites can be one of the toughest marijuana pests to get rid of, but it can be done if you stay vigilant!

• Consider tossing your plants – I know it can be a hard pill to swallow, but if you have an intense infestation, sometimes the easiest thing to do is to get rid of the plants, treat the room thoroughly, and start over. However, make sure you know where you got the mites in the first place or you may end up infected again!
• Treat often – You may have to treat several times a week or even daily if you have a terrible infestation that won’t go away. This can be very difficult on your plants.
• Spray Before Lights Go Out – Whenever treating plants with a spray, do it before the lights go off so that your plant is less likely to get burned!
• Read Instructions – Make sure to read the full instructions of each bottle and follow them when treating your plants. You will save yourself a lot of big headaches!
• Repeat treatments weekly for 5 more weeks after mites are gone – After you think hemp russet mites are completely gone, don’t stop! Treat your plant with a different treatment at least once a week for 5 additional weeks. If you don’t completely eradicate them they’ll come back with a vengeance and be even more resistant to whatever you throw at them.

1.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mold, including hemp russet mites.

Neem oil can be rough on your plants so you don’t want to use it more often than you have to because your plants will suffer. However, if you get desperate, treating plants daily with Neem oil is very effective at killing hemp russet mites when nothing seems to be working.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly since neem oil and water can separate easily. A mister helps you get full and even coverage on all parts of the plant.

2.) Insecticidal soaps

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against hemp russet mites. They weaken the outer shell of hemp russet mites but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue which could kill beneficial bugs in your garden.

With soaps, just like horticultural oils, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!

This will not get rid of hemp russet mites on its own, but it is less harsh on your plants than some of the other options and so it can be a great way to supplement the other treatments you’re doing.

Natria Insecticidal Soap Insect Killer

3.) Mighty Wash 

Mighty Wash may help rid your grow room of hemp russet mites. Spray plants 15 minutes before lights out, making sure to drench the foliage under the leaves as well as the top of your soil. You want to use a spray bottle or mister. Use a fan to blow on your leaves to help things dry. Treat your room more than once, even if you believe the hemp russet mites are gone.

Use Mighty Wash with a One-Handed Power Sprayer for the best results!

4.) Avid

Avid miticide is strong stuff with harsh chemicals, and is incredibly expensive, but it can sometimes do the job when nothing else is working. This is a systemic insecticide, which means it works by infiltrating the inside of plant tissue and killing bugs that way. Because of that it should NOT be using in the flowering stage (you don’t want this stuff inside your buds). However, many growers report that this is the only thing that consistently works for them. Always use Avid as directed and only as a last resort! You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

Don’t use this product more than once or twice in a row or your mites may become resistant. This should stay in your plant’s system for several weeks. If you’re going to be using systemic insecticides, switch back and forth between this and another one like Forbid. Make sure to follow the instructions!

5.) Forbid

Forbid miticide is sort of like Avid in that it is made of strong stuff with harsh chemicals and is even more expensive. This is a systemic insecticide, which means it works by infiltrating the inside of plant tissue and killing bugs that way. Because of that it should NOT be using in the flowering stage (you don’t want this stuff inside your buds). However, many growers report that this can be the only thing that consistently works for them. Always use Forbid as directed and only as a last resort! You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

Don’t use this product more than once or twice in a row or your mites may become resistant. This should stay in your plant’s system for several weeks. If you’re going to be using systemic insecticides, switch back and forth between this and another one like Avid. Make sure to follow the instructions!

6.) Diatomaceous Earth 

Diatomaceous Earth is basically fossil dust which you mix in with the top of your soil, and anywhere else in your room (window sills, doorways, etc). This powder-like substance is harmless to mammals and plants, but is incredibly sharp at the microscopic level. Therefore it will tear and dehydrate hemp russet mites on physical contact. This will not get rid of an infestation, but can help prevent, control and slow things down when used effectively! When it comes to hemp russet mites, you want to use every tool you can!

7.) Heat

Hemp russet mites don’t like the heat. Some growers will try to get rid of them by on small plants or clones by dunking the plants in hot water (105°F / 40°C) for 10-20 minutes. I’ve also heard of growers try to reduce their number by overheating the grow space to 115°F (46°F) for an hour. Be careful as this can be dangerous if you don’t take safety precautions, and any heat method strong enough to kill the mites will likely hurt your plants.

8.) Predatory Mites

Some types of predatory mites, like Amblysieus andersoni mites, may target hemp russet mites. Supplementing your garden with extra predators can help bring down hemp russet mite numbers. However, it’s not enough to fix the problem on their own and unfortunately a lot of the other remedies on this page may also kill predatory mites.

If you don’t want to use any pesticides, get predatory mites to help eat all your hemp russet mites!

9.) AgroMagen GrowSafe (Organic)

GrowSafe by AgroMagen is a natural miticide that claims to be effective against hemp russet mites. I am not very familiar with this product, but have heard good things about it. Given how tough this pest can be to get rid of, I wanted to make sure I included every possible option. From what I understand you will need to spray more than once and this is best combined with at least one other treatment. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

GrowSafe (plus a mister) kills hemp russet mites and almost any mite (including broad mites and spider mites)

More Cannabis Pests, Bugs & Viruses

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Can Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) spread to cannabis plants? Yes. Several mosaic viruses have been detected in cannabis plants (including tobacco mosaic virus, cucumber mosaic virus, and alfalfa mosaic virus) by the Canadian government. However, there isn’t much evidence of widespread transmission of mosaic virus in cannabis plants. Unfortunately, some plants that test positive may not have visible symptoms, and some plants that test negative may actually have the virus. Note: Hop latent viroid and beet curly top virus can also affect cannabis plants.

Should you be worried about TMV infecting your cannabis plants? Probably not.

What is Tobacco Mosaic Virus anyway? TMV is a virus that is commonly found in tobacco plants which causes splotchy or twisted leaves, strange mottling symptoms (a “mosaic”), slowed growth, and reduced yields. Mosaic virus has spread to several other species of plants besides tobacco, including cannabis plants.

Note: Mosaic virus doesn’t affect humans, but plants that get infected by mosaic virus may not grow as fast or yield as well as they could have.

Did you Know? Tobacco Mosaic Virus was the first virus ever to be discovered.

The mosaic virus was first identified in tobacco plants in 1892 but is now known to infect at least 125 species of plants, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and many types of flowers. It can live in the soil but mainly travels from plant to plant by direct contact. It can also be transferred from one plant to another via your hands. Some growers have claimed to see the symptoms after exposing their plants to tobacco.

The mosaic virus can attack a wide range of plants, but has it spread to our beloved herb marijuana?

Here’s a pic of a tobacco plant with confirmed TMV – the mottled leaves are the main symptom of the virus besides overall slow growth.

Here’s a pic of a squash plant that has caught Mosaic Virus

Euphorbia viguieri plant infected with mosaic virus

Several leaves throughout the plant can display symptoms, or it may just be one or two leaves. Typically the twisted growth is accompanied by a speckling/mosaic pattern. To make things complicated, some plants are silent carriers and may never show any symptoms.

Can Cannabis Plants Catch Mosaic Virus?

Now the real mystery. Can mosaic virus spread to cannabis plants? And if it can, what are the symptoms and how do you get rid of it?

Is there a “cannabis mosaic virus” out there? Some growers believe mottled leaves could be signs of the virus in cannabis plants

The following pictures display the symptoms that many marijuana growers believe to be the result of mosaic virus. Symptoms may include twisted or curved leaves, yellow stripes, spots, and a mosaic pattern. Yet these symptoms could also be caused by plant problems such as heat, root problems, general stress, nutrient deficiencies, etc. There’s also the possibility of a mutation or other genetic factors.

The most common symptom attributed to TMV is the appearance of uneven stripes on leaves of light and dark green. Yellowing is worse on the parts of the leaves that are deformed and twisted. The dark green areas tend to be somewhat thicker than the lighter portions of the leaf.

Curved leaves with yellow stripes or mottling are the most common symptom attributed to mosaic virus.

TMV-affected plants are said to grow slow, seem sickly, and generally produce poor yields.

Some growers swear their crops have been greatly affected by TMV, while others deny that it’s actually even spread to cannabis plants at all. The mosaic virus can be difficult to test for, even in a lab. The main problem with TMV from a grower’s perspective is that it may cause plants to grow slowly and produce poorly. If your plant is growing fast and healthy, with no other symptoms, and you’re not noticing it spreading from plant to plant, you probably don’t need to worry.

The cannabis pictures presented today appear to follow the symptoms of mosaic virus in other plant species, but so far I haven’t confirmed any cases of a positive TMV test that also displayed these symptoms. What do you think? Just regular plant variation or something more?

Do these cannabis plants have mosaic virus?

At this point, cannabis growers haven’t confirmed that these leaf symptoms are caused by mosaic virus or something else

Unfortunately, few cannabis growers have the equipment or the means to test if a plant actually has TMV.

Can TMV spread to cannabis plants? Yes, but…

• Not much evidence for symptoms – Although mosaic virus has been found in cannabis plants, I haven’t confirmed any cases of the TMV plants showing symptoms of stripes. There is still a lot to learn.
• Tests often come back negative – The Florida Department of Agriculture has tested several cannabis and hemp plants showing symptoms, yet none tested positive for mosaic virus. However, the Canadian government did find both multiple types of mosaic virus including tobacco mosaic virus in some cannabis plant samples. If you know of any other positive tests for mosaic virus in cannabis, please let us know!
• Similar symptoms to other problems – Many common issues can cause similar symptoms, including incorrect pH, watering problems, root problems, deficiencies, etc.
• Affected plants don’t always seem infectious – I’ve had a few plants display these symptoms over the years. When I saw the symptoms, I tried to “infect” other plants in the grow tent by rubbing their leaves together with the affected seedlings, and it never spread to the other plants. I’ve spoken to several other growers who’ve had similar experiences where they see symptoms on one plant but it never infects the rest of the grow room.
• Could be genetics – Following on the last point, it’s possible the symptoms are sometimes the result of genetic variation. For example, I grew a few plants of a strain called “Purple Sunset” and all the seedlings displayed the mottling and stripes. Yet the symptoms never spread to the several other plants in the grow tent. About a year later, I germinated more Purple Sunset seeds and saw the symptoms again. Just like the first set, the seedlings grew fast and healthy, but some of the leaves showed the odd stripes. I contacted the breeder about it, and he told me that he’s noticed some seedlings of this strain do that when grown under LEDs. To me, this is evidence the symptoms may be triggered by genetic factors as opposed to a virus.

The red arrow in the picture below points to a Purple Sunset seedling with mosaic stripes on the leaves. I tried rubbing the leaves on the other plants, but the symptoms never spread. The seedling grew fast and healthy despite the stripes, and after a few weeks the leaves started growing normally.

Here’s a closeup. Other Purple Sunset plants from the same batch of seeds produced the same markings as seedlings, but (again) didn’t seem contagious. Were the markings the result of genetics?

Conclusion: There isn’t much information about how often mosaic virus spreads to cannabis plants, and exactly what symptoms it may cause. The traditional TMV symptoms can be caused by other factors and sometimes appear on otherwise healthy plants without signs of spreading. That doesn’t mean cannabis plants can’t get mosaic disease, but the appearance of mottling isn’t necessarily a cause for alarm.

This cannabis plant has yellow spots or speckles that appear on the unhealthy parts of the leaves. Is it mosaic virus? It could be, but probably not.

But the virus can infect cannabis plants. Just because the symptoms aren’t always caused by mosaic virus doesn’t mean the symptoms are never caused by mosaic virus. Should you be worried?

If you look at the big picture, the main worry with mosaic virus is that your plants become sick and slow-growing. That means there’s not much to worry about if plants are otherwise healthy and fast-growing without any sign of symptoms spreading.

Don’t worry about TMV if…

• Plants with mottle leaves are otherwise healthy and fast-growing
• Symptoms aren’t spreading from plant to plant
• It seems to be genetic (for example common among all plants of a strain) but you’re not seeing symptoms on unrelated plants
• You think another problem may be causing the symptoms, such as nutrient deficiencies, root problems, heat stress, etc.

A plant virus can be hard to pin down, since many factors cause similar symptoms. Just remember that (if it does exist) mosaic virus appears to be relatively rare in marijuana plants.

How do you treat a cannabis plant that has mosaic virus? 

If you believe you’re seeing an infection, you likely should treat cannabis the same as other species of plants that can catch mosaic virus.

Now here’s the bad news. Unfortunately, when it comes to mosaic virus, there is no cure. An infected plant will have TMV forever, even if it’s not actively showing symptoms. If you believe you have a marijuana plant with TMV, your main goal is to carefully remove the plant while preventing the virus from spreading to other plants.

In greenhouse and commercial operations, the main way to deal with mosaic virus is to dispose of all affected plants, including any soil they were growing in, and enforce a strict policy of hand-washing between touching plants. Luckily TMV probably won’t kill your plants, and there’s no evidence it will hurt you, but if infected plants grow slower and end up producing smaller yields, you definitely want to keep them out of your marijuana garden.

Have you ever seen cannabis plants infected by Mosaic Virus? Let us know!

Could the Symptoms be Caused by Something Else?

Some cannabis plants may show mutations such as variegation (two-toned leaves), and this normal and natural phenomenon may be confused for TMV. One difference is the plant otherwise grows fast and healthy.

Two-toned leaves (variegation) are a common mutation. Nothing to worry about if plants are otherwise healthy and fast-growing.

Thrips are a common plant pest which may cause leaf symptoms that are reminiscent of mosaic disease symptoms

Because other plant problems can cause similar symptoms, it’s always a good idea to investigate and see if it might be something else!

Diagnose Your Sick Plant!

Background: How Does TMV Spread?

“Mosaic” disease is caused by a virus. The tobacco mosaic virus is very stable and can persist in contaminated soil, in infected plant debris, on or in the seed coat, and in manufactured tobacco products. The virus is transmitted readily from plant to plant by mechanical means.

This may simply involve picking up the virus while working with infected plant material, then introducing it to healthy plants by rubbing or brushing against them with contaminated tools, clothing, or hands.

Virus plant diseases cannot be “cured” once a plant is infected!

Therefore, every effort should be made to prevent the introduction of virus diseases into the garden.

Sanitation and cleanliness are the primary means of controlling virus diseases. Infected plants should be removed immediately to prevent the spreading of the pathogen. The use of tobacco products during cultural practices should be avoided to prevent infecting plants with tobacco mosaic virus. Anyone who uses tobacco or works with infected plant material should wash their hands thoroughly in soapy water before handling marijuana plants.

More Cannabis Pests, Bugs & Viruses

Jump to…

Cannabis bugs, mold, and other annoying pests!

Diagnose Your Sick Plant!

How to stop marijuana nutrient deficiencies

7 Steps to Cure Most Marijuana Growing Problems

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Cannabis Underwatering Symptoms

• drooping (plants often get better after being watered)
• leaves often seem “papery” and thin because they don’t have any water inside them. (This is opposed to overwatering where the leaves often feel bloated and “fat” from all the water contained inside)
• chronic underwatering eventually leads to yellowing leaves and nutrient deficiencies

If your soil or soilless medium looks bone dry every time you water, or if you know that your roots have dried out, than skip right down the the solution section, as you definitely have a case of underwatering.

Under-Watered Cannabis Seedlings – Leaves feel papery and thin, growing medium is dry

If it gets worse….

The marijuana plant in the middle is under-watered, causing it to droop. Because it was taller and directly under the grow light, it became underwatered even though it was getting the same amount of water as its siblings. Sometimes you’ll see signs of under-watering immediately after upgrading your grow lights (if you don’t change your watering habits), because all the plants start drinking more due to the extra light and heat.

Chronic Under-Watering (Under-Watering on a Regular Basis)

Most growers tend to give too much – not too little – water to their plants. However, if you’re spending long periods away from your marijuana plants or the containers are drying up in less than a day or two, it may mean that your plant needs to be watered more often, or be given more water at a time.

It’s also common to under-water when plants start overgrowing their pots, or if growers get on a schedule of giving a specific amount of water as opposed to paying attention to the soil.

• plant may need to be watered more often
• plant may need more water at a time
• plant may have overgrown its pot and need to be transplanted

It can be difficult to diagnose chronic underwatering because problems may look like nutrient deficiencies. One big clue is that plants perk up every time after you water.

Chronically Under Watered Seedlings – These yellow leaves are actually caused by the plants being slightly under-watered on a regular basis

The curling/clawing and burnt tips on the following two plants may look like it could be caused by another problem, but in this case the symptoms are the result of the plant being regularly under-watered

Notice how the leaves are clawing and tips appear burnt alomost like nutrient burn. It’s happening because the plant isn’t getting enough water on a regular basis.

The leaves near the buds of this male cannabis plant started turning yellow. In this case, the grower determined it was because the plant had overgrown its pot and was drinking more than expected, and as a result the soil was getting too dry between waterings.

More examples of under-watered cannabis plants

Extreme underwatering on a big plant

Not Sure? If you’re not sure whether your plant needs more or less water, how do you figure out exactly why your plant is drooping?

1.) Determine: Is my plant over-watered?

A cannabis plant does not get over-watered because it’s given too much water at once – overwatering is caused by the plant being watered too often, or if the plant does not have proper drainage (which means the growing medium is taking too long to dry out).

2.) If not over-watered, does my plant have root problems?

Growing hydroponically? When you see signs of wilting and overwatering in a plant that is growing hydroponically with the roots in water, usually that’s a sign of a root problem like root rot.

In fact, all cannabis plants can sometimes display wilting/drooping symptoms that are actually the result of root problems.

3.) You may be seeing symptoms of under-watering

So if you read the short description in step 1 about what causes overwatering (and you’re sure you haven’t overwatered your cannabis plants), and you’re certain you’re not seeing signs of root problems, than your cannabis plant might be drooping or wilting because it needs more water.

If you’ve been underwatering your plant, its leaves will look limp and lifeless, like these plants.

Symptoms of underwatering look the same whether your cannabis plant is growing in soil or a soilless growing medium like coco coir or perlite.

How can I tell if my cannabis plant is over or under-watered?

Does my plant actually have root problems?

Solution:

Don’t wait until leaves droop to water your potted cannabis plant! While it is generally a good idea to let your potted cannabis plant dry out a bit after watering (watering too often causes its own problems), you should always water your cannabis plants again before the leaves start drooping.

This is the case for cannabis plants grown in both soilless growing mediums and soil.

First-time growers tend to overwater their plants, but underwatering happens too.

So you’re pretty sure your plant is under-watered. A thirsty cannabis plant will usually perk up quickly after the roots are given water.

Click here to see time-lapse of under-watered marijuana plant coming back to life
1 picture taken every 75 minutes. Strain is Island Sweet Skunk. Used with permission. By micks_trichs.

Watch another time-lapse – middle plant is very under-watered and perks up after getting water
6 plants, 1 photo per minute for 125 minutes. Used with permission. By micks_trichs.

Learn about ones of the best ways to properly water your potted cannabis plant every time…

How to water cannabis properly (for soil and most soilless mediums)

1. Wait Until Plant Needs Water – Wait until the top of the growing medium is dry about a half inch deep (up to your first knuckle). Preventing the topsoil from staying wet for long periods of time can also help prevent bugs like fungus gnats. Some growers prefer the “lift the pot” method to figure out when plants want water, where they actually lift the plant to see if it feels light from lack of water. Some non-soil growers, especially in coco or a very high-drainage growing medium, may water a little earlier when the top is just starting to dry out because it’s more difficult to overwater plants in that type of environment. If you continue running into problems with underwatering, you might consider watering more often than is generally recommended. It may be you need extra watering due to small pot size, rootbound plants, temperature, humidity, etc.

2. Water until you get a little runoff. If using nutrients in the water, add water until you see 10-20% extra runoff water drain out the bottom of your pot. This helps prevent nutrient buildup in the soil and if you have good drainage this type of watering schedule causes plants to grow faster than if you don’t water to runoff (it also makes it much harder to under-water your plants). If not using added nutrients (plants getting all nutrients from the soil, for example in a super soil setup), then only water until you get just a tiny bit of runoff out the bottom, so you’re not washing out your nutrients. However, you still want to make sure you’re saturating your medium – you don’t want dry spots in the soil!

3. Go back to step 1. If water does not come out quickly or pots take more than 5 days to dry out for step 1, you may have a drainage problem or need to give less water at a time until your plant is drinking more. If pots are drying out in just 1-2 days, you may need to give more water at a time, or transplant to a bigger pot.

Learn more about how to water your cannabis plants perfectly every time

A simple way to tell if a potted plant is ready to be watered is to pick it up and tell if it feels heavy or not.

As plants use up all the water in their pot, it will get lighter. If you need something for comparison, you can get an extra pot and fill it with your growing medium. Now you can use this extra container for comparison with your potted plants as it represents the ‘dry weight’ of your growing medium. If you pick up a potted plant and its feels just slightly heavier than your dry pot, then you know it’s time to water your plant. After a while you get a feel for how heavy your plants need to be and you may not even need the extra pot anymore.

Need more help?

If your plant is experiencing “the claw” and not just normal drooping (the ends of leaves are curling like a claw or pointing down like talons), then you may actually have a nitrogen toxicity (too much nitrogen).

These Plants Are NOT Over or Underwaterd, These Leaves Show Signs of
Nitrogen Toxicity
(“The Claw”, tips bent down, curling / clawing, dark green leaves)

The post Under-watering appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Table of Contents

Introduction to Root Rot (With Tons of Pictures!)

What Triggers Root Rot?

Solution: Get Rid of Root Rot Forever!

Cannabis Root Rot – Slimy, brown, twisted or unhealthy roots are caused by unwanted pathogens in your hydroponic tank!

The marijuana plant on the left is healthy, and the plant on the right has root rot. The curled, drooping, unhealthy leaves are the result of the plant not being able to get enough oxygen through the roots. Root rot symptoms often look like a soil plant that has been severely over or under-watered.

Go Straight to the Solutions for Root Rot!

An example of what cannabis root rot can look like “under the hood”. Every infection looks a little different, but brown roots are usually the main symptom. It may affect all or just parts of the roots, and the sick sections usually become slimy or mushy and start twisting together.

Healthy Cannabis Roots Are White or Cream Colored!

Check out a quick Youtube video showing what a cannabis seedling with root rot looks like.

Root rot can be caused by several different organisms including types of bacteria, fungi, algae and parasitic oomycotes. Although the symptoms are similar between different types, they don’t always look exactly the same. However, growers generally refer to all types of unhealthy root browning as just “root rot.”

Root Rot causes droopiness and other symptoms similar to over or under-watering

Common Triggers for Root Rot: Light Leaks, Heat, & Lack of Oxygen in the Water

Because cannabis root rot can be caused by different pathogens, a solution that solves the symptoms of root rot for one grower may not necessarily work for another grower. What’s attacking your roots in California might be completely different from what’s attacking the roots of a grower in Australia. That being said, there are tools to fight against root rot no matter what kind you have!

The first sign of root root is usually a brown tinge on the roots.

Some varieties of root rot mostly affect the roots below the surface of the water while the roots located above the waterline stay white and healthy. This phenomenon is part of why it’s often recommended that hydro growers maintain at least a small amount of air gap under the net pots. Oxygen-rich moist environments (including that misty air gap) make it very difficult for root pathogens to grow.

Sometimes even the roots above the waterline appear brown. The white strands you see in this picture are actually new roots coming out of the old unhealthy stuff. When new white roots are growing, it’s a sign the plant may be getting better! Even after roots have recovered, you may see the brown for a while until it’s completely covered by new white roots again.

Brown, infected cannabis roots often appear twisted. In fact, sometimes them getting twisted up after being moved around by the grower is what triggers root rot in the first place.

If cannabis roots get twisted due to handling, it can trigger the roots below the “twist” to die.

Sometimes the twisting/bunching together is actually the result of the infection. Healthy roots have individual “strands” that tend to stay separated even when they’re all floating together in a reservoir.

Sometimes the infection hits first, and roots start twisting as a result of the root rot.

A mass of root rot. The grower believes the main cause was that the water level in the reservoir was too high.

Depending on what pathogen in particular is attacking your marijuana roots, the symptoms may look different.

Cannabis roots with root rot sometimes look mushy or slimy and can almost look like they’re covered in snot 🙁

This case of root rot was caused by a brown algae bloom. Brown or green algae is especially common in hot temperatures or when there are light leaks!

Algae started growing from light getting into the reservoir.

Important: The Following Roots Are Stained from Nutrients – They Are NOT Brown from Root Rot

Nutrient-stained roots are not slimy or smelly and all the roots are evenly dyed the same color. You’ll be able to see each individual “strand” on healthy cannabis roots, as they won’t be twisted together. You also won’t see leaf symptoms or wilting on the plant itself.

The first sign of root rot is usually wilting or drooping, though sometimes you won’t have any symptoms at first. Root rot often strikes immediately after disturbing the roots or completing a reservoir change, especially with young plants. It’s a good idea to avoid disturbing young seedling roots when possible! This gives roots time to build up a biofilm that protects them against root rot.

Learn how to care for hydroponic cannabis seedlings!

This cannabis plant was completely healthy the day before, but started looking weak after being transferred from one hydroponic reservoir to a different one. The thin, light colored plastic of the reservoir may have been letting light through, making the reservoir a haven for root rot. Additionally, the temperature was about 85°F (30°C) in the grow space!

Cannabis root rot can cause leaf symptoms that can look like almost anything: cannabis leaves get burnt edges or tips; yellow / bronze / brown spots or stripes; nutrient deficiencies; clawing and curled edges; and other unusual leaf symptoms.

Typical signs of root problems, like unhealthy leaves, yellowing, or nutrient deficiencies, are often present.

Root rot can cause curling leaves and brown or burnt patches.

Sometimes you’ll have a plant with root rot that looks completely healthy other than the roots. Don’t ignore this problem as you will likely start getting symptoms!

What Causes Root Rot in the First Place?

The plant ailment we think of as ‘Root Rot’ is actually a bunch of similar symptoms caused by many different types of organisms. Since these organisms all cause the same problem – gross, brown roots – we group them together. In addition to these harmful organisms all causing similar symptoms, they also show up for the same reasons.

So what causes root rot? If you’re growing in soil or coco coir, there’s one main cause: stagnant water at the roots. If your plants are sitting in old water that’s getting light (from the sun or otherwise), their roots are connected to a breeding ground for unwelcome organisms.

Root rot is a major problem to look out for in DWC many factors can cause it to show up. The most common are:

• Heat – A warm reservoir makes it easier for bacteria to reproduce. In fact, keeping a cool reservoir makes for an environment in which harmful bacteria/fungi/etc. just can’t survive.
• Light leaks – Light in your reservoir equates to a population boom for some of the smaller, unwanted populations living.
• No air space – There should be a space with air between the bottom of the net pots and the top of the water reservoir, about the width of a few fingers. If the water is touching the net pot, that can increase the chance of root rot.
• Lack of oxygen in the water – When you remove the air and agitation from your reservoir water, it’s party time! A gross, smelly, sad party. Hydroponic roots need lots of bubbles full of oxygen-filled air.
• Moving young roots – Young roots need time to build up their defenses. Moving them around not only weakens them, but it potentially exposes them to new pathogens or getting twisted when put back in the water.
• Decaying matter in the reservoir – Old bits of dead leaves can be the start of something bad. Make sure you fish any plant matter out of your reservoir when you see it. Except for your roots…leave those in there.

Your cannabis plant has started drooping, leaves are getting sick, and roots are brown, twisted, smelly and/or slimy. These are all signs you have cannabis root rot 🙁

When a cannabis plant is wilting or drooping, whether it is in soil, coco or hydro, it is almost always a sign that’s something is going on at the roots.

The wilting is often soon followed by other symptoms to the leaves, especially burning, brown spots, nutrient deficiencies, spotting, and other unusual leaf symptoms.

Root rot can cause a wide range of symptoms, because without the roots the plant is shutting down!

Plants with root rot often start drinking less water. If you notice symptoms in your cannabis plant, make sure to take precautions to stop root rot from getting worse.

Some brown roots may eventually turn white again after the root rot is gone, but it’s important to note that damage is permanent on the leaves. Brown leaves will never turn green again. You need to watch the roots and the new leaf growth for signs of root rot recovery.

Root rot mostly affects marijuana plants in hydroponic systems, but roots can also get pathogens as a result of over watering your plants in soil or other medium. Basically, anytime the roots are sitting in wet conditions for too long without any oxygen, they are at risk of developing root rot.

Symptoms of Root Rot

• Droopy – Cannabis plants with root rot almost always appear overwatered or droopy (sometimes plants wilt overnight!)
• Roots seem unhealthy – Brown, slimy, or smelly roots.
• Leaf symptoms (deficiencies) – Plant leaves often start turning yellow/white or get brown patches. You may see what appears to be a random mix of nutrient deficiencies on the leaves. This is due to the fact that the plant can’t absorb nutrients properly at the roots even if they’re there
• Dying leaves – Leaves may start dying and falling off rapidly.
• Drink less – Plants may drink much less water than usual.

Now that you know what root rot looks like and how to get it, it’s time for cannabis root rot solutions!

Solution: What to Do About Marijuana Root Rot, Algae Growth & Slime in the Reservoir

It can be tough to get rid of root rot and many growers feel it’s easier to just scrap the plant and start over. However, if you’re growing in the same spot you’re likely to get it again unless you find a true solution, and there are proven techniques that will cure your plant of root rot problems!

In order to get rid of root rot successfully, you need to take a two-pronged approach. You will need to…

1. Treat the plant’s root directly with something that will help protect them against root rot
2. Change the plant’s environment so that root rot no longer has a good place to grow.

Go through the below list and make sure you’re covering all your bases to get rid of root rot permanently and prevent a re-occurrence. It’s also important to note that affected roots will likely never recover, just like how discolored leaves on the plant will never recover. What you’re looking for is new, healthy white root growth coming out of the old sick roots.

Learn how to prevent and treat cannabis root rot…

1.) Add Beneficial Root Bacteria – Crucial!

Some people (like me) add beneficial bacteria to their water to help prevent and treat root-related plant diseases and help make nutrients available to the plant. Some of the formulas available are Hydroguard, VooDoo Juice, or Great White. Most of these can be used with both hydro and soil grows.

Hydroguard (Recommended)

I personally recommend Hydroguard because I’ve used it successfully to treat root rot in hydro, and I’ve also seen it work for many other hydroponic cannabis growers, too! It’s pretty inexpensive, and concentrated enough that a single small bottle can last throughout your grow.

The “secret sauce” in Hydroguard is a specific type of bacteria called Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. It survives in hydroponic reservoirs better than other types of Bacillus bacteria and fights many root ailments including different types of fungi, bacteria, and oomycotes. It not only gets rid of and prevents root rot, but there’s some evidence Bacillus a. may actually help lower salt concentration in the plant tissue itself.

For my hydro plants, Hydroguard has proven to be the most effective root rot prevention supplement.

Great White Root Powder (If Hydroguard Doesn’t Work)

Great White is another root supplement that works by giving your plant roots lots of good stuff to help it be more resistant to root rot. Some growers (myself included) have tried Great White without seeing any root rot recovery. However, other growers have had great results with this supplement! For example, in our growing forum, just like Hydroguard, some hydroponic growers have been able to cure their root rot simply by adding Great White to their reservoir.

It all depends on exactly which organism is growing in your tank! What was growing in mine might not be the same as what’s growing in yours, so when it comes to “good bacteria” supplements it can’t hurt to try more than one if the first one doesn’t work.

A small sample of Great White doesn’t cost much, so if you’re still struggling with root rot after trying everything else, it’s worth giving it a try to see if it works for you!

Some hydro growers also swear by VooDoo Juice but we haven’t tried it ourselves for preventing root rot.

SM-90

Note: SM-90 has been temporarily discontinued. See this article for more info.

2.) Lots of Bubbles

As I mentioned, it is incredibly beneficial to try to get as much oxygen as possible dissolved in your water. Therefore, it’s a good idea to buy a medium sized air pump and big air stones for your hydroponic system.

Up to a point, the more bubbles and surface agitation, the better, as this dissolves more oxygen into the water. As long as the roots are not being very disturbed, you can’t really go wrong with adding more oxygen.

Root rot cannot thrive in an oxygen-rich environment and your plants will grow faster with lots of oxygen. I use one EcoPlus 2 Air Pump w/ 2 Outlets for each 10-gallon container (which each holds 5 gallons of water), which I have connected to 2 large air stones per air pump since this one has 2 outlets; this helps make sure there’s plenty of oxygen in the water healthy roots and faster growth.

You need 3/16-inch standard aquarium tubing to hook everything together. Try to get tubing in black if possible, to ensure light can’t get through.

Air stones disperse the bubbles into the water.

3/16″ Flexible Airline Tubing for Aquariums is the standard size to connect an air stone to your air pump.

An air pump pumps air into your reservoir through the tubing where it gets turned into bubbles.

This has worked great for me. I haven’t had root rot since I started using this air pump/air stone combination with Hydroguard. But lots of different pumps and types of air stones will work great. The important thing is to make sure that you’re seeing lots of bubbles!

3.) No Light Leaks in the Reservoir!

Your roots don’t like light, which is reason enough, but the bad organisms that attack cannabis roots love the heat and light they receive from your grow lights!

Therefore, hydro growers want it to be completely pitch black in their DWC reservoirs. You should not be able to see even a tiny bit of light where your roots are!

You don’t need to worry as much about repairing light leaks when using a dark, thick and sturdy tub as your water reservoir

I love this idea from Farmerjim420. Help block light and heat from the reservoir with a simple towel!

In order to accomplish a totally dark reservoir for your marijuana plants, here are some things to keep in mind!

1. Consider the Material & Thickness of the Reservoir Tub – Darker and thicker material will let less light through to the reservoir.
2. Consider Reflectivity – Pale colors tend to reflect back more light and heat, but you can always increase the reflectivity later by covering the lid with a reflective material!
3. Check Thoroughly for Light Leaks! You may need to get down low and look up to see them!
4. Use Opaque Tape to Cover Any Light Leaks – Electrical tape and reflective tape are great options for covering up places where light is getting through.
5. Use Dark (Light-Proof) Tubing – Another way to protect the water from light exposure
6. Light-Proof Your Net Pots. Neoprene net pot inserts are great to fill in the net pot instead of using clay pebbles, and won’t let any light get through.

All the Hydroguard, Great White, H2O2, or other root supplements in the world often won’t solve a root rot problem if there’s a light leak!

Read the Complete Tutorial on Preventing Light Leaks in a DWC Reservoir!

4.) Keep Grow Room Cool

Lower the temperature of the grow space under 80°F, and even better under 75°F.  This also lowers the temperature of the water in your reservoir. Water can’t hold much dissolved oxygen at higher temperatures and your plants need oxygen to “breathe.”

Getting more oxygen to the roots not only helps fight root rot, it makes your plants grow much faster. If it’s too hot in the grow space, you’re much more likely to run into root rot as well as overall droopiness.

In an ideal world, the maximum recommended temperature for the water in your reservoir is around 72°F (22°C) and some growers will go to great lengths to keep their reservoirs very cool. However, when using a great supplement like Hydroguard that fights root pathogens directly, you can often keep the temperature quite a few degrees higher without as a problem.

Learn how to control the temperature in the grow room

Cannabis plants like about the same temperature as humans do!

5.) Avoid Disturbing Roots, Especially Young Plants

When it comes to nutrients and plant growth in a hydroponic setup, it’s important to watch over your roots and change your reservoir water regularly. This is especially important in the flowering stage when the plant is very sensitive to nutrients and pH. Regularly changing your water every 7-10 days will help your plants get better access to nutrients, and help prevent deficiencies and toxicities.

However, when your young seedling or clone is first getting established in your hydroponic system, it doesn’t have an established a colony of good bacteria around the roots, and has not yet grown a biofilm that protects the roots against pathogens.

During this initial period, a full reservoir change can throw everything off balance, and your roots have to sort of “start over” from the beginning.

That’s why if you historically struggle with root rot, it’s recommended for the first 3-4 weeks of your cannabis plant’s life to only top off the reservoir with additional nutrient water, and hold off on a full reservoir change until your plants have grown lots of roots with a healthy layer of biofilm over all the roots and sides/bottoms of the tank.

6.) Keep Everything Extremely Clean & Sterile

In a hydroponic system, make sure that any dead roots, dead leaves or other types of plant debris doesn’t get into the reservoir because they will provide a breeding ground for bad bacteria as they start rotting. If you do notice organic matter in the reservoir, fish it out as soon as possible.

You also want to keep your grow area as clean as possible at all times to stop bacteria before it starts. Before you begin your grow, it’s a great idea to clean all grow-related items to kill any bacteria or fungus.

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Is Only a Temporary Solution: Use alongside something else for more long-lasting prevention!

Some people recommend treating cannabis root rot with H2O2, also known as hydrogen peroxide. While adding hydrogen peroxide to your water will kill most bacteria and pathogens, including the ones that cause root rot, it is only effective in your system for a day or so or since the H2O2 is quickly converted to oxygen and water.

Therefore, if you use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment for root rot, you will need to treat your water daily to prevent re-occurrences until you actually fix the problem that is causing your root rot in the first place. I have used commercial grade H2O2 against root rot more than once, and I never saw any noticeable difference, so I would NOT RECOMMEND H202 as any type of long term cure!

Why Not Use Hydrogen Peroxide? H2O2 is only temporarily effective at best when it comes to getting rid of root rot. It makes me so sad when people tell growers to use H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to kill root rot because I know they will continue to struggle with it. Even the commercial grade stuff just doesn’t work most of the time (and I’ve tried)!

All H2O2 does is cause bubbling near the dead brown roots (or any organic matter), which is why I think people believe it’s helping. In my experience, it doesn’t help the plants themselves (they don’t look any better), and what’s worse, all the H2O2 will be completely gone from the water within 24 hours.

H2O2 kills most of the bacteria in the reservoir, including any good bacteria you’ve added, and does nothing to address the underlying problem. You can’t sterilize away root rot, it attacks people everywhere! Although H2O2 does kill bad organisms, it leaves enough of it there to repopulate your reservoir.

I personally recommend Botanicare Hydroguard (the newer, improved version of Botanicare’s popular “Aquashield” root supplement) for marijuana root problems because I’ve used it successfully to get rid of more than once case of Root Rot (and by ‘successful’ I mean new white roots exploded out of the old mushy brown ones and I was able to eventually harvest the buds – look at the pics below).

Hydroguard (and their old supplement Aquashield) are also much cheaper than most other similar root treatments, and in my experience more effective.

Take a look at what happens with the roots from using a supplement like Hydroguard.

What you are looking for is new healthy white roots growing out of the old brown roots. Eventually, as the root ball gets bigger, you will no longer be able to see the old brown roots. After you start noticing a recovery, some growers will snip off old dead roots, but I often don’t.

Before – Roots Just Got Root Rot

Roots are beginning to recover…

Notice the new white roots growing out of the old brown dead ones within just a day or two of receiving Hydroguard in the reservoir. By this point, the plant has stopped showing any new symptoms and appears to be growing normally.

Roots are now mostly recovered below…

Notice that you can barely see any signs of the old brown, and all the new roots generally appear white and healthy. The plants on top are lush, healthy, and fast-growing, though the old burnt leaves never recovered.

In addition to treating root rot, I like to use Hydroguard or as a preventative. It is surprisingly effective even in warm reservoirs. Hydroguard have definitely gotten me through a hot summer before.

Since I first started using Hydroguard in DWC, bubbleponics, and other hydroponics, it has successfully prevented me from getting root rot as long as I keep using it. I also use it when growing in soil if I suspect root problems.

Read a case study about how another grower was able to get rid of cannabis root rot

Jump to…

Case Study: Root Rot Recovery

Other Cannabis Root Problems

Over-watering Cannabis

How to Grow Hydroponic Cannabis

Yuck! Follow This Tutorial and Never Get Root Rot Again!

The post Root Rot appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

This cannabis plant suffered from the grow light being too close along with major heat stress during a heatwave in Southern California

Important for Hydroponic Growers! High temps can trigger root rot, a serious problem that can kill your plants.

Cannabis will also display heat stress when grown outdoors in hot, dry weather, especially when not given enough water.

When the heat gets too high, the edges of the serrated leaves will begin to curl up even if there are no burns or other signs of light stress.

When the heat gets too high, the edges of the leaves will begin to curl up and the leaves will begin to “cup.”

Heat Stress

Very low humidity can make plants more likely to get stressed by the heat. Sometimes you’ll get symptoms that look like heat stress even if it’s not that hot, and the symptoms are worse because the plant is being affected by very low humidity! Dry, hot air will commonly tip up the edges of leaves like this:

Heat stress is even more damaging in the flowering stage since plant is no longer growing many new leaves. Indica-leaning strains are most prone to heat damage in the flowering stage. Heat damage during budding will reduce your yields by demolishing many of your most important leaves, while also causing buds to grow airy with ugly foxtails.

Even though the grow lights were turned off, this is what happened to an indica-leaning plant overnight after being exposed to 105°F (40°C) temperatures during a heat wave.

If flowering cannabis plants are grown under too-hot conditions for a long time, sometimes they respond by growing new buds on top of the old ones. When you see extensive growth on top of the buds closest to the grow lights, that’s a sign that the grow light is too close or the temperature is too high. Some people call the new growth (which often grows in spires) “fox tails.”

If it seems like your cannabis plants are completely ready for harvest, but they keep putting out new white pistils at the top of the plant, it might just be heat. If that’s the case, pay attention to the lower growth to decide when to harvest.

Heat during the flowering stage also causes fox-tails, which are airy and don’t have much substance to them. It’s basically the same response as growing new buds on top, it just looks a little different on some plants. The plant is basically “abandoning” the original heat-damaged bud to try to make a sad new one.

Example of unwanted “fox-tailing” caused by too much heat

Solution: Get a way to monitor temperature. Control heat by whatever means necessary using the steps outlined below.

Learn 5 secrets to controlling heat in the grow room.

Indoors, find a way to lower the temperature and/or increase the circulation in the grow room or grow area if heat is the problem. Having a small fan blowing over the tops of your plants will help prevent hot spots from forming directly under your grow lights. How far away should you keep your grow lights from your plants?

You may consider removing grow lights further away from the tops of the plants if heat is a problem.

When growing cannabis, it’s best to try to keep things at a comfortable room temperature at all times for optimal growth. If it’s too hot for you, it’s probably too hot for your plants.

Keep roots cool!

If you can keep your roots cool, it will help your plant deal with heat affecting the top of the plant. If there’s some way to protect the roots from heat, do it!

When cannabis plants are recovering from heat shock, some growers recommend using seaweed kelp extract (often available as a convenient liquid fertilizer) to help plants recover from the stress and possible even protect plants from heat stress in the future.

Many indoor setups will require that you vent out hot air using a fan and/or an exhaust system. By creating good suction with an efficient exhaust system and adding a carbon scrubber, you can also pretty much scrub all smells from the grow room. Learn more about controlling odors in the grow room.

An oscillating fan will circulate air in the room as well as provide a gentle breeze for your plants, and a small one will cost less than $20.

Learn everything you need to know about controlling temperature in the grow room.

Outdoors, you have less options to reduce heat during a heat wave, but you are able to monitor your local weather via weather forecasts.

Read the full tutorial on how to help outdoor cannabis plants in the heat.

It is possible to partially shield your plants when you know the temperature is going to get hot. You can also adjust your watering schedule to make sure plants at least have plenty of water.

Some things to try when you know the weather outside is going to be hot or dry:

• water plants in the evening or early morning to help prevent water evaporation during the hottest hours
• keep roots cool – for example by putting your potted plant in a ceramic pot to help insulate the roots from the sun. I’ve also heard of growers digging a hole in the ground to place their potted plant inside, because the ground is usually cooler than the air when the temperature gets high
• kelp extract for roots – provide a small amount of liquid fertilizer that contains seaweed kelp extract (can help protect against heat stress)
• increase shade to reduce the heat experienced by plants – you can use an old sheet or other cloth as a short term solution, or get a professionally made “Sun Shade Sail” which is made particularly to create shade outdoors. It’s important to remember that giving plants shade for more than a few days will make them less “hardened” to the sun, and you may need to reintroduce full sunlight back slowly to prevent them from getting shocked from the light intensity
• move potted plants – luckily with potted plants, it’s usually easier to move them out of direct sunlight during a heat wave
• take extra good care of heat-stressed plants – when cannabis plants appear heat-stressed, try to baby them as best you can, and offer shade during the hottest days.

When growing cannabis outdoors, it can often take a few weeks for plant to recover after a hot or dry spell, so prevention is the best medicine for outdoor plants.

Jump to…

Picking the right grow light

Light-Stress & Light-Burn

Air Circulation & Exhaust Tutorial

7 Tips to Growing Top-Shelf Buds

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The yellow leaves of a nitrogen deficiency may show signs of brown, and they will usually become soft and sort of “fold” in, before possibly turning crispy but ultimately falling off on their own.

Example of cannabis Nitrogen deficiency – yellow bottom leaves. Almost all plant nutrients contain Nitrogen

Nitrogen-deficient plants often appear pale or lime-colored. The leaves on this marijuana plant don’t have obvious leaf symptoms like spots or markings, but they are pale all over the whole plant. Almost lime green. The light-colored leaves are a sign the plant needs more Nitrogen (and nutrients in general). On the flip side, plants that are receiving too much Nitrogen turn dark.

If the yellowing leaves are at the top of your plant or the yellow leaves are mostly new growth, then you probably don’t have a nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen deficiencies usually affect the oldest, lowest leaves first, or the entire plant becomes light colored.

Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient, which means it can move throughout the plant as needed. Cannabis needs nitrogen to keep leaves green and make energy from light. All new leaves get plenty of nitrogen to make them green and help with photosynthesis. The leaves that get the most light are the newest, youngest leaves, so the plant “wants” to give those leaves priority for getting light.

If new leaves aren’t getting enough nitrogen, the plant will start to “steal” nitrogen from the older, lower leaves, so that it can give it to newer leaves. This is what causes the yellowing and wilting of a nitrogen deficiency.

It’s relatively normal for your cannabis plant’s leaves to start turning yellow towards the end of your flowering cycle as the plant becomes nitrogen deficient while creating buds.

However, if your cannabis plant is losing lower leaves fast due to yellowing (if yellowing and dying leaves is “climbing” up the plant from the bottom), especially in the vegetative stage before plant is making buds, you have a problem that you will need to fix as soon as possible.

You don’t want a nitrogen deficiency in the vegetative stage!

If you notice your lower cannabis leaves turning yellow in the vegetative stage or in the beginning part of the flowering stage, your plant may be experiencing a nitrogen deficiency which will need to be treated.

It is not good if your cannabis plant is showing signs of an advanced nitrogen deificiency while still in the vegetative stage. It’s normal to lose a few yellow leaves off the bottom of your plant here and there, especially with very big plants. But if you are losing a significant amount of yellow leaves, and the yellowing seems to be moving up the plant quickly, then you have a problem.

As a grower, you’re interested in how much nitrogen to give your plants at what time. The ratio of nitrogen to other nutrients has a huge effect on growth and bud formation.

Vegetative Stage – higher levels of Nitrogen (pretty much any plant food will do)

Most complete plant foods that you get at a gardening store contain high levels of nitrogen (N). These nutrient system tend to work well in the vegetative stage.

Some examples of cannabis-friendly one-part Vegetative nutrient systems…

• Dyna-Gro “Foliage Pro”

• General Hydroponics “FloraNova Grow”

• Pretty much any complete plant food

Flowering Stage – lower levels of Nitrogen (use “Bloom” or Cactus nutrients)

It’s extra important to find a nutrient system with lower levels of nitrogen for the last part of your plant’s life. Many “Bloom” or “Flowering” style base nutrients are just the ticket.

Some examples of good one-part Flowering nutrient systems…

• Dyna-Gro “Bloom”

• General Hydroponics “FloraNova Bloom”

• If you can’t order online and can’t find a good one-part base Bloom formula locally, you do have other choices. Though not an ideal choice, most Cactus plant foods will contain good nutrient ratios for growing cannabis during the budding stage. So in a pinch, you can use the cactus nutrients that can be found at most gardening stores.

The first cannabis plant pictured below is showing signs of nitrogen deficiency late in flowering; nitrogen deficiency in late flowering is completely normal and even desired. The last picture is an infographic about nitrogen and your marijuana plant.

It’s normal for plants to show signs of a nitrogen deficiency as the plant gets close to harvest. This is actually a good thing! Too much nitrogen can actually prevent proper budding, and can reduce the overall taste and smell of your plant. This is why all “bloom” and flowering nutrient formulas are relatively low in nitrogen.

Don’t worry about yellow leaves close to harvest! It’s normal to see a few Nitrogen-deficient leaves in the flowering stage. Nothing to worry about unless you see the yellowing leaves start climbing up the plant.

So don’t sweat it if you see your cannabis show some signs of nitrogen deficiency late in the flowering stage! Relatively low levels of nitrogen in the late flowering stage help promote proper cannabis bud development and will increase your yields!

Solution: You can find many pre-mixed nutrients from the store which contain nitrogen or you could use nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer which are both good sources of nitrogen. In fact almost all plant nutrients of any kind will include nitrogen. If you haven’t been providing any nutrient to your plants, try supplementing your regular nutrients with a bit more nitrogen and see if the plant starts recovering.

If you’ve already been using nutrients, then you probably don’t have a nitrogen deficiency. If you’re seeing the signs of spreading nitrogen deficiency even a week or two giving nitrogen to your plants through nutrients, then you need to figure out what else is causing the yellowing so you can stop it.

More About Nitrogen and Your Marijuana Plants

Sometimes you can get the signs of a cannabis nitrogen deficiency if the pH at the plant root zone is too low, even if the nitrogen is there. This is because when the pH at the roots is not right, your plant roots can’t properly absorb nutrients. If you aren’t sure about your root pH, learn more about pH & growing cannabis plants here.

Nitrogen is especially important during the vegetative stage of your cannabis plants. As your plants start flowering, they will need lower amounts of nitrogen.

Nitrogen is one of the 3 nutrients that is included in almost every kind of plant food.

When looking at plant nutrients, you’ll almost always see 3 numbers listed, like 3-12-6 or 5-10-5. These numbers represent the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K) contained in the bottle. Just about all plant life on Earth needs these 3 elements to grow.

The 3 numbers on the front of plant nutrient bottles list the amount of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.

The very first number, “3” in the case of the picture to the right, always displays the proportion of nitrogen in this nutrient bottle compared to the other 2 nutrients (Phosphorus and Potassium respectively).

Nitrogen is in all plant nutrient formulations because it’s vital to plant processes.

Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, marijuana plants start pulling all the remaining nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don’t need to fight it. You may notice that marijuana leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of marijuana plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields from nitrogen-toxic plants with dark green leaves at harvest.

The post Nitrogen Deficiency appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Problem: After watering, your plants start drooping. Usually the droopy leaves will feel firm and appear curled down (the whole leaf will be curled, not just the tips, which is often a sign of nitrogen toxicity). With overwatered cannabis plants, you may also notice Chlorosis (leaf yellowing that is similar to a nitrogen deficiency).

Overwatered cannabis plants are droopy with leaves that curl down. As a result of overwatering, leaves often turn yellow or show other signs of nutrient deficiencies (especially when it comes to younger plants and seedlings!)

Overwatering does not always mean you’ve been giving the plant too much water. It can also mean that you’ve been giving the plant water too often, or growing plants in a growing medium that holds onto water without enough air, or doesn’t have good drainage out the bottom.

How Often Do I Water My Cannabis Plants?

Cannabis plants use their roots to get oxygen, almost like they’re breathing. Oxygen is dissolved in water, and there’s also air pockets in their grow medium to provide a source of oxygen. When you water your plants too often, the roots end up sitting in stagnant water. The reason your plants droop is because basically their roots are starving for oxygen.

This sick marijuana seedling has several symptoms including droopiness and leaves with brown spots that appear to be a nutrient deficiency. Surprisingly, the true cause of both problems actually is the thick, wet, muddy soil.

The main sign of a cannabis plant being overwatered are the droopy leaves, though other symptoms often appear around the same time!

Overwatered Marijuana Plants

• Drooping / Curling is the first sign of overwaterd marijuana plants
• Plants start drooping soon after watering
• Leaves are firm and curled down all the way from the stem to the leaf
• Will eventually lead to leaf yellowing and other signs of nutrient problems if not corrected

The drooping cannabis plant below did not have drainage holes (water could not drain out the bottom of the pot). After watering the plant which appeared healthy the night before, the grower came back to this drooping plant the next day – this case of overwatering was caused by too much water being held near the roots due to lack of drainage:

Solution: The best thing you can do for overwatered plants is give them time between waterings, and then start off watering slowly until things seem back to normal. Make sure that water is able to drain easily out the bottom of potted cannabis plants. Be extra careful with small plants in big containers.

How to Water Cannabis Properly

1. Wait until the top of the growing medium is dry about an inch deep (up to your first knuckle).

2. Add water until you see some at least 20% extra runoff water drain out the bottom of your pot. Go back to step 1.

3. If top of growing medium stays wet for a long time, you may need to give your plants less water at a time, or improve your drainage.

4. The goal is to be watering your plants every 2-3 days. If it needs longer to dry out, you should be giving less water at a time. If it’s drying out too quickly it should get more water at a time (or may need to move to a bigger pot).

Learn how to water your marijuana plants perfectly every time

Some growers also use the “lift the pot” method to decide when to water your plants (basically wait until your pot feels “light” since the plants have used up all the water). It’s up to you to decide what’s easier for you.

If your plant medium seems to stay wet for a long time (more than 4-5 days or so), you may need better drainage. This also can happen when growers put tiny plants in a pot that’s way too big.

How to Water Cannabis Seedlings in a Too-Big Container

This cannabis plant has green healthy leaves, but as a result of overwatering it’s stunted and small even though its more than a month old.

Make sure that water drains freely from the bottom of your container (it’s recommended that you provide enough water to get at least 20% extra runoff every time you water your plants as long as your plants are drinking well).

You should see water coming out the bottom within a minute or two after watering. Then don’t water your plants again until the soil is dry up to your first knuckle.

If your plants are already overwatered, you can try to increase the temperature and airflow to help the water evaporate more quickly. You can also use a pencil to gently poke some air holes into the growing medium to provide extra aeration and oxygen to the roots.

Whenever a seedling has droopy leaves, it means that the roots are either not getting enough water (underwatered) or not getting enough oxygen (overwatered). This seedling has been chronically watered too often, preventing the roots from getting enough oxygen. As a result, the seedling has stayed small and mostly stopped growing.

For your individual growing medium and environment, your watering method will vary, but if your plants are drooping and you’ve been feeding them a lot of water, it’s a good idea to cut back and see if that helps.

Sometimes plants will be droopy no matter what you do, and the true cause is the plant is rootbound and needs a bigger container!

If you’re growing hydroponically with your marijuana roots directly in water and you see the signs of overwatering, that means you have a problem at your roots. Either your plants have root rot which is preventing them from getting oxygen at their roots, or you are not dissolving enough oxygen into the water (you can easily increase the dissolved oxygen in your water with a quality air pump and a few air stones).

How to Get Rid of Root Rot in Hydro

Need more help?

If your plant is experiencing “the claw” and not just normal drooping (the ends of leaves are curling like a claw or pointing down like talons), then you may actually have a nitrogen toxicity (too much nitrogen).

These Plants Are NOT Overwaterd, These Leaves Show Signs of “The Claw” which usually indicates a Nitrogen Toxicity
(“The Claw”, tips bent down, curling / clawing, dark green leaves)

The post Over-Watering appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Table of Contents

Root Problem Symptoms (many different symptoms)

Triggers for Root Problems

How to Treat Root Problems

Cannabis Plants With Root Problems Show Many Symptoms

• Cannabis may appear overwatered or droopy
• Curling or cupping of leaves
• Wilting – either individual stems wilt or the whole plant may wilt
• Slow growth, or staying very small for weeks
• Leaf yellowing, or sometimes even other colors like purple or red
• Brown spots / Burnt spots
• Other strange nutrient problems
• Brown or slimy roots – this is often a sign of root rot
• Smelly runoff water (smells rotting or musty)
• Leaves may start dying and falling off rapidly
• Plants drink much less water than usual

Example of extreme overwatering on an adult cannabis plant

This seedling was being grown in pure perlite, which is not a suitable growing medium for cannabis, and as a result the roots were not getting the proper levels of air and water. This seedling needs to be transplanted to soil or coco (or even into hydro) in order to get better.

This clone was give the same amount of water from when it first sprouted. As the plant started getting bigger and drinking more, this wasn’t enough and became chronically underwatered (a different type of root problem, with similar symptoms). What this particular plant needed was to be given more water at a time. One warning flag was that the plant was drying out every day (you should only have to water your plant every few days, if it’s drying out in just one it likely needs more water at a time). It’s always a good idea to listen to your plants when deciding when to water, as opposed to following a set schedule. Each plant and environment is different, and what works for some plants may not work as well for others!

The cannabis plant below did not have any drainage holes (water could not drain out the bottom of the pot). Notice the strange twisting of some of the leaves. When roots are left in stagnant water for too long, they cannt get enough oxygen and tend to develop root problems.

More overwatered marijuana seedlings – these were overwatered since theyf first germinated. If leaves are drooping down in normal heat, but still seem kind of “fat” it’s often something with watering or roots!

Example of a cannabis seedling with what appears to be a nutrient deficiency, but the symptoms are actually caused by overwatering / root problems

This particular type of cupping of the leaves below is common among cannabis plants with root problems. In this case, the plant had no drainage from the bottom of the solo cup, so water was just pooling at the bottom for the roots to sit in. Once the grower poked holes in the bottom of the cup, this problems went away (the cupped leaves didn’t recover, but new leaves started growing in happy and healthy).

Sometimes leaves will tend to cup or curl down due to root problems, like the plant above, but sometimes the curl upwards too, like the poor plant below (this was caused by poor drainage and plant was overwatered, leading to a pretty severe case of root problems):

This next plant was also overwatered and had no drainage. Notice how dark the soil is and the green algae growing all along the top of the soil – these are more signs the plant has been overwatered for quite a while. You should never water your plant when the soil is still wet at the top, and if you notice lots of algae growing on top of your soil, it may be a sign that you’re overwatering on a regular basis.

The grower went away for a few days, so they chose to overwater their plant in hopes it would be enough water until they got back. While they were gone, they had a huge heat wave. So this plant was subjected to overwatering plus heat. A few days later, when the grower came back, they saw that the leaves were cuppping upwards and had turned lime green. The stems and veins of the leaves were turning red. You can see the soil is still dark and wet because the plant stopped drinking after developing root problems.

Another plant from that same batch which reacted differently

Chronic overwatering in thick soil led to these symptoms. The main thing that alerts you to the fact that the yellowing is caused by overwatering is the fact that it’s droopy. It’s very easy to overwater young plants when you have a small seedling in a big container. When that’s the case, don’t soak the whole growing medium. Water in just a circle around the plant until its leaves are up and growing fast. At that point you can start watering more thoroughly 🙂

The following seedling is almost a month old, but it’s been overwatered its whole life. As a result, it’s stunted and small. The biggest hint that the roots are at fault is the fat, droopy leaves. The fact that it’s a small plant in a big container also makes it more likely for plants to develop root problems.

The strange yellow and red growth in this picture has been caused by giving the plant too much water, too often. Overwatering can often causes what appears to be nutrient deficencies in young plants! Older plants tend to just droop, but especially seedlings can have really odd reactions to overwatering.

The plants below developed root rot in a hydroponic setup. This is usually triggered when the roots can’t get enough oxygen, usually due to high temps or poor oxidation of the water. Notice the strange burnt appears on some of the bottom leaves. They turned almost white. The whole plant was drooping, especially towards the bottom. The roots turned brown (pictures below).

The plant on the right is healthy, and the plant on the left has root rot. It’s interesting how the symptoms from root problems are often similar, whether the problem is in soil or hydro!

More side effects of root rot

Root rot! No wonder the leaves were having so much trouble on top.

Learn How to Get Rid of Root Rot (common in hydroponic setups)

See even more pictures of cannabis root problem symptoms caused by over-watering, too much heat, and small containers

Possible Triggers For Root Problems

• Heat – cannabis is more likely to have root problems at higher temperatures
• Cold – cold roots are unhappy roots – cold shock can cause wilting and other problems
• Over-watering potted plants – too much watering tends to cause root problems
• No drainage hole at the bottom of the container – if water can’t get out and water is sitting at the bottom of the pot, the roots can “drown”
• Muddy or thick soil – if your soil is muddy and thick instead of rich and fluffy, it may mean the soil doesn’t hold enough oxygen to support your roots.
• Small plant in a big container – When a seedling (or small plant) is in a big container, it often has trouble getting enough oxygen at the roots. Until the plant has grown bigger and started to fill up the container, it’s important to avoid overwatering. It can help to water just a little bit at a time, in a circle around the seedling, until it starts growing faster.
• Plant has “overgrown” it’s container (become rootbound) – The roots of a rootbound plant have started circling the outside of the container, causing watering and nutrient problems even if you’re doing everything right. When this happens, you may need to transplant to a bigger container to stop the plant from being “choked” by the roots.
• Big plant in a small container – any time you have a big plant in a small container, even if the plant isn’t root bound, you increase the chance of underwatering since the plant quickly drinks up all the water in the soil!
• Hydroponics – Root problems are caused when there’s not enough oxygen in the water, usually caused because it’s either too hot or there isn’t enough bubbles/aeration

Certain strains are more prone to root problems than others, but good root practices will allow every plant to thrive!

How to Treat Root Problems:

Step 1: Identify what may have caused the root problem (refer to list of possible triggers above)

Step 2: Address this underlying issue

• Happy temps – Make sure your grow area maintains a comfortable room temperature during the day, and is a few degrees cooler at night. Learn more about how temperature affects your cannabis plants.
• Only water your plants when they need it. How often should I water my potted cannabis plants?
• Make sure potted plants have plenty of drainage, and there must be drainage holes at the bottom. If soil or growing medium holds a lot of water, consider mixing in 1/3 to 1/2 extra perlite to “loosen things up” and improve drainage at the roots.
• Put plants in the right sized container to give the roots the best environment to spread out and grow. You may need to transplant to a bigger container if your plant has gotten too big or its roots are rootbound.
• Brown, smelly roots? Learn how to get rid of root rot

Step 3: (Optional) Provide your plant with a beneficial bacteria like Hydroguard to help roots recover quickly (more info about root supplements below). Hydroguard will help fight root rot by creating a colony of good organisms to outcompete the root rot.

You May Not Want to Use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) for Root Problems! H2O2 is temporarily effective at best when it comes to root problems. By it’s nature, even commercial grade H2O2 will be completely gone from a water reservoir after about 24 hours as it reacts with the water to form oxygen (decomposes) until the H2O2 is completely gone.

If H2O2 is added to a water source, it kills most of the bacteria in the water, including any good bacteria, but will not usually be able to kill all bacteria, so some bad bacteria will still be left to repopulate. Because of it’s nature, hydrogen peroxide does absolutely nothing to fix the underlying issue that causes root problems, and it kills any postive bacteria in your soil or water so sometimes it can actually make things worse. I think of H2O2 as a temporary bandaid.

I personally recommend using a supplement called Botanicare Hydroguard for root problems because I’ve used it successfully to get rid of a terrible case of Root Rot

Note: Botanicare used to have an awesome root innoculant called Aquashield, but in our tests Hydroguard works even better to create healthier roots and get rid of root rot!

Hydroguard is also much cheaper than most other similar root treatments and is proven to work well at supporting root health in cannabis. Take a look at our root rot page to see pictures of how Hydroguard was able to completely cure a terrible case of root rot.

Other examples of beneficial root supplements include Piranha, VooDoo Juice, Great White (Great White has great reviews, yet is obscenely expensive), and Rooters. Most of these can be used with both hydro and soil grows. I personally recommend Hydroguard because I’ve used it successfully to treat Root Rot (and it’s also very affordably priced, you can use it throughout your grow without breaking the bank).

One important thing to note is that after you treat the cause of root problems, the old damaged leaves may never recover! With recovery, you should be looking for the problem to stop spreading, and for new leaves to be growing in green and healthy.

Jump to…

Diagnose my sick plants!

7 Tips to Growing Top Shelf Buds

What supplies do I need to start growing indoors (or upgrade)?

Pests, Bugs, and Cannabis Viruses

Enough of all the pics with sad or unhappy roots – before you go, here’s a picture of healthy roots growing from a new clone!

Taken by awesome grower Merrie Jayne

The post Root Problems appeared first on Grow Weed Easy.

Most indoor cannabis growers use fans to blow air around within the grow area. This creates a nice breezy environment that cannabis plants love. But sometimes there can be too much breeze!

Be Careful! Too Much Wind Causes Clawed Leaves and Sometimes Spots

When there’s too much breeze, the affected marijuana leaves will start getting “wind-burned.”

Wind-burned leaves are often curved under and form “claws.” They can look like they’re droopy from overwatering, underwatering, or possible a nitrogen toxicity, but you know you’ve got wind-burn when the leaves in front of the fan are clawing, and leaves further away from the fan look fine.

Just for reference, here’s what too much wind/fan looks like!

Too Much Fan!

Sometimes too high levels of wind can cause other unusual problems on the affected leaves, such as brown or bronze spots that almost look like burn marks. These are the result of the leaf not being able to fulfill all its normal processes.

A closeup of those wind burn leaf spots – not bugs, not a nutrient deficiency!

Placing Fans

• Ideally you’d like a nice breeze surrounding the main canopy, which means you want air blowing above and under the plants.

• All the leaves should be gently rustling in the best-case scenario, but should never be waving around.

• Don’t point a strong fan directly at a plant, because too much wind can start to damage the leaves and stems. Sometimes if you have a small space it’s better to point the fan at the wall than directly at the plants.

• After placing fans, check around the grow area to make sure that all parts get a slight breeze. If you feel stagnant air or a lack or breeze, you may want to adjust your fans.

• Small oscillating fans are great for the grow space since they’re cheap and can be used to provide a nice gentle breeze to a relatively wide area without blowing on any one part too long.

If you cannot get rid of the clawing symptoms from marijuana wind burn, please consult our 7-Step Remedy to 99% of Cannabis Growing Problems for more help!

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